parallel vs. pipe clamps

[James White]

I am new to building furniture and would like to know when parallel clamps are desirable or needed vs using pipe clamps. I currently have 4 of the bessey 50 inch parallel and six of the newer style pipe clamps (with the feet). I know the 50's will be too large for most task. So I am wondering if I could get away with the pipe clamps for now.

I guess I am mostly wondering what the real advantage of the parallel clamps are and when do they really shine.

James

[Tom Cowie]

Hi James

What ever clamps that you have will get you started and as you go you will probably add more of a variety in the selection. I like the parallel design of the Bessy and Jet clamps but to say that they are my only used clamp would not be true. I used only pipe clamps for years and got by just fine. I'm now using a panel clamping system from Plano that takes away the need for clamps to glue up panels.

One thing is certain is that you can never have enough clamps..

Tom

[Chris Barnett]

HF has some inexpensive one-hand 12" bar clamps on sale for $1.97. They work as well [better...no failures yet] as some much more expensive clamps I purchased at wood show last summer. Bought 20 of them for less than one 50 inch Bessey [just looked at these at Lowes to spend my rebate card]. Chopped some down for smaller size needed last night. As the man said, can't have too many.

[Rob Will]

James,
I also have the Bessy 50" K-body clamps but I would recommend adding some pipe clamps to your collection.

My favorite is the Jorgensen "Pony" 3/4" pipe clamp. I would suggest cutting a 21' joint of 3/4" black pipe into eight 31.5" sections. The fixtures themselves take up about 5" of pipe so this will give you about 26" of reach when everything is assembled. Don't fall victim to the common mistake of cutting your pipe too short.....(24"......and you end up with a 19" capacity clamp.) JMHO. When the need arrises for more capacity, you can get some longer pipes.

http://www.adjustableclamp.com/cf50.htm

You might also consider adding a few Bessey F Clamps. They are a nice compliment to pipe and bar clamps. I really like the new composite handle. This type of clamp is good for when you need more depth than standard pipe or bar clamps.

http://www.besseytools.com/tradezone/ImageDB2007/Bar_Clamps/Tradesmen%20product_2K.jpg

http://www.besseytools.com/images/pdf/2k7/WoodBarClampsUS.pdf

Rob

[Steve Flavin001]

before I bought a set of bessie parallel clamps. The latter are great and add benefit - BUT cost 4 or 5 times as much per clamp, are heavier than heck to handle, and harder to store. :eek:

All the other clamps mentioned - F type C type etc. would be needed irregardless of the choice you asked.

[Peter Quinn]

James...I worked in a custom cabinet shop that had hundreds of pipe clamps and bar clamps, but not a parallel clamp in the place. IMHO parallel clamps are a convenience more than a necessity. You'll be just fine with pipe clamps. You have to take care that glue ups remain square, flat and don't get racked by clamping pressure. Parallel clamps make this easier for certain things like frames and doors, but careful placement of pipe clamps works just as well.

I bet you'll find more uses for those 50" K-bodies than you think too!

PS I like the pipe clamps with the feet too, I'm using the ones from Rockler with much success. I don't use the feet during glue ups, I just love the fact that they hang off the wall.

[Travis Rassat]

I've got 4 of the Jet parallel clamps and 10 pipe clamps of varying lengths, and like most folks seem to be saying, I think it's definitely good to have both. So far (I'm just getting back into woodworking myself), I'm finding pipe clamps to be more useful.

The parallel clamps are nice if you use the accessories they offer, such as the blocks and the bench dogs. I also like the large clamping surface and long jaws they offer. I have a couple of the 40" ones like you, but I find them to be kind of bulky.

In addition to giving you any length option you want, pipe clamps allow for a lot more clamping pressure. There was an article in the September 2007 issue of Fine Woodworking where they did a clamp test, and while a parallel clamp could produce about 370 pounds of clamping pressure, a pipe clamp could produce 1050. Based on some other articles I've read, that extra pressure is quite useful.

[Frank Drew]

I was a latecomer to Bessey clamps, after years of using pipe clamps, Record regular and heavy duty (T-bar), Jorgensen heavy duty (I-bar), etc.. I think the Bessey design is a significant improvement over most of the others I've used, certainly over standard pipe clamps (you don't have to worry about racking the work during glue up), but I wouldn't say they're essential.

I think it's fair to say that they're rather expensive but nice to have.

[Brent Smith]

Hi James,

I think there are several advantages to parallel clamps. First of all I find setup easier with them, you're not constantly trying to keep the faces parallel with each other. Second is the staining problem with some pipes. Third, as previously mentioned is racking. Another great benefit of these clamps is the surface area covered if you use them on there side.

All this said, there's nothing wrong with using pipe clamps. They're cheaper and more versatile, just changing the pipe gives you infinite lengths with just a few sets. I used them for many years before going Bessey. Now my shop is primarily Bessey.

[scott spencer]

Pipe clamps are typically the last clamp I reach for because they're more cumbersome to use and are more prone to marring the wood surface. My Jet and Stanley parallel clamps are the best clamps I own but are expensive. I tend to use the Wolcraft and Irwin "Quik Grip" types most often...they're easy, effective, and not overly expensive. I have several of the HF "Pittsburg" bar clamps that see alot of action...they're very useful and very inexpensive.

[Frank Drew]

Lemme add a bit to what I said above; for glueing up frames or panels I can't imagine reaching for pipe clamps if I have Bessey or equivalent available, there's just no comparison in ease of use and accuracy in clamping.

For some applications you might need a boatload of small, strong clamps, though, say for a laminated glue-up between two curved forms, and being so inexpensive, and coming in any length you care to buy pipe for, pipe clamps would be an ideal choice there.

[Paul Johnstone]

I think the clear advantage of K-bodies is when you want to clamp a face frame to a plywood carcass (glue it, no nails).

I can put down a few 2 x 4 scraps, lay the carcass on it's back on top of the 2 x 4s.. Then the "foot" of the Bessey can squeeze in between the back of the cabinent and the floor. It's really easy to glue face frames that way. It would be much more difficult with pipe clamps.

Another advantage of Besseys is when you have a LOT of glueups (like panels for raised panel doors). After you clamp, it's easy to set up the glueups on the feet. You can do the same with pipe clamps, but I always had to have wall space to lean the pipe clamp glueups against.

An advantage of pipe clamps is that you can put down much more pressure when you need to.. but in theory, you shouldn't be cranking down a million pounds of pressure during a glueup.. but sometimes a goof is made...

[Howard Acheson]

I don't consider the parallel face clamps as the end-all of clamps. In fact, I prefer 3/4" black pipe clamps. Pipe clamps can exert much more pressure than parallel face clamps so you will get better and less obvious joints when making panels.

[James White]

Well so much has been said that I don't even know were to begin. Except for saying thank you all for your input. I feel confident that I am set for now. I will buy more as the need arises. I got the large 50's because my next two projects will be a new top for my computer desk and then a ding table for our new house (Im still not done with that tough).

James

[glenn bradley]

I have pipe clamps and Besseys (and quick-grips and hand screws and mini's and jorgies, etc, etc.). The K-body clamps clamp at 90* and excel when clamping drawers or carcases. I reach for 24" parallel clamps most and picked up four more the other day. I use 24" and 31" the most. I also have longer sizes but use them the least. So for me (and I'm not you) parallel clamps for up to 30" or so and pipe clamps for the long stuff. As for the Bessey knock offs, a quick examination of the construction will tell you why one is $5, one is $20 and one is $35.

[J. Z. Guest]

I use Pony 3/4" pipe clamps and Pony F style clamps (the inexpensive ones)

I look forward to getting some parallel clamps for the reasons Frank Drew pointed out.

Paul Johnstone had an excellent point too, about being able to sneak in the head of the clamp under something. This can't be done with pipe clamps, but it can be done with the less expensive F-style clamps. With the F-style clamps, pressure is always in a straight line, since the flexible end of the clamp swivels. This is sometimes a blessing and sometimes a curse.

I like that parallel face clamps can be turned diagonal or sideways to spread the clamping pressure and negate the need for cauls or a ton of clamps. In that line of thought, a parallel face clamp could replace 2 or 3 F-style clamps.

I plan to buy the Pony brand, as I'd rather have my money go to an American company instead of a German or Taiwanese company. They're so damned expensive anyhow, that last couple bucks doesn't make the difference. I believe they're also MADE in the USA... Looking at them in the store, their construction is more substantial than the Besseys.

One clamp everyone should have at least one of is a handscrew. That is one where sometimes, one only needs one clamp because the pressure is so well-distributed.

[Frank Drew]

I absolutely agree about the handscrews, Jeremy, and the more the merrier. For some jobs there's no better clamp.