TS extension wings

[Dave Westover]

Im looking around for alternatives to cast iron or stamped steel extension wings for my tablesaw. MDF a good choice? Not quite sure what else woud be stable enough or as inexpensive. Anyone have other thoughts on this? And if anyone has done this using ply or mdf, how did you attach the wings to the top?

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Dave-

FWIW... Cast aluminum wings are almost always available on everbodies favorite auction site for Craftsman saws.. they go pretty cheaply (~$25ish). Shipping for the CI versions gets expensive due to weight.

You don't mention what make your saw is, but if the table is 27" front to back then you should be able to adapt the Craftsman wings to your saw pretty easily.

Most of the aluminm wings are open-web castings. Don't know if that works for you or not.

Just one of many options.

-Tom H.
Ventura, CA

[Bill Huber]

May old saw is small and I could not find and extension that was short enough for it so I mad one.

I use some red oak for the borg and 3/4 MDF for the top, I did add a brace to the under side of it to help support it. It has worked out very well, I gave it about 4 coats of wax and that was about all I did it it.

I used a 3/8 turnbuckle and sanded the edge down so it was running up a little then used the turnbuckle to pull it down flat with the table.

You can see the brace in this image.
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/83061777

[Jim Becker]

You can make extension wings out of just about any flat material. The key is to be sure it's properly supported. With things like MDF, Melemine covered particle board and plywood (typical materials for DIY and OEM extensions on the right side of a saw) that would usually consist of a framework of 1.5-2" wide 3/4" thick material. This would be easy to build using pocket screws. Some folks will start with MDF or plywood and then apply plastic laminate ("Formica" or similar) for greater durability over time and a good look. For fastening to the saw, there are generally bolt holes already in the saw table for this purpose. If not, cast iron is easily drilled with standard twist bits. (A little oil helps with cooling, etc.) Anything wider than about 12" or so, will need additional support. On the right side, that's usually with the fence rails up to about 30" max and then with legs, too. On the left side, extensions are typically 12" or less and may not need extra support if constructed well.

That all said, cast iron would always be my first choice on the left side and certainly nice to have on the right, too. CI is wonderful material because of its mass and vibration dampening properties.

[glenn bradley]

And if anyone has done this using ply or mdf, how did you attach the wings to the top?

I made an oak frame with cross supports (kind of like a web) to provide good support to 3/4" MDF. My saw used through-holes on the saw table so I put threaded inserts into the frame and bolted through.

If your saw table is threaded I would just bolt to it. You may have to provide clearance for a wrench by easing the bottom of the MDF surface near the bolt holes.

[Alan Schwabacher]

For use as a saw, the wings only need to support the workpiece, and don't need to be flatter than a straight board would be if you let it sag unsupported on one end. However, the saw top is frequently used as a flat reference surface for other things, and for this very stiff, flat, and aligned wings are helpful. If I were building them, I would consider torsion box construction from plywood or MDF. Or build a decent apron and ribs to help support a sheet, as described by Glen Bradley and others. One advantage of the open bottom rather than the torsion box is that you could fine adjust flatness at any point above a rib by using a screw holding down the top, with a shim between top and rib.

Consider how to attach and adjust it when you build, so if it's a torsion box, you may want to leave a few round openings in the bottom for wrench access to the bolts into the edge of the table. Rather than shims to level it, you could add a series of machine screws through the wood, pressing against the edge of the cast iron near the top and bottom edges to adjust the angle. I'm not completely sure how Bill Huber's diagonal support works, but something like his turnbuckle to fine tune it is a very good idea.

And think about a smooth, waxed top surface for durability and low friction. Perhaps some laminate.

[Dennis Lopeman]

May old saw is small and I could not find and extension that was short enough for it so I mad one.

I use some red oak for the borg and 3/4 MDF for the top, I did add a brace to the under side of it to help support it. It has worked out very well, I gave it about 4 coats of wax and that was about all I did it it.

I used a 3/8 turnbuckle and sanded the edge down so it was running up a little then used the turnbuckle to pull it down flat with the table.

You can see the brace in this image.
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/83061777

NOTE: OT (off topic)
So I got nosey and started poking around at your other pictures Bill - and I have to say - you are a pretty good photographer!!!

My other interest/hobby is photography... when I can... I got a nice Digital Rebel XT a couple years ago, and was surprised by some of the nice quality pictures I started taking! So after some time with that I found an old SLR real camera at a thrift store for 12 bucks! Well, turns out that it was a $400-600 camera!!! A Minolta X-370... so have started playing with it too! Lots o fun!

[Dave Westover]

Thanks for all the info folks. Much appreciated.

[Vince Shriver]

You can see the brace in this image.
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/83061777[/quote]


Bill, nice job fabricating those additions to you saw. Those blocks at the rear of the table - stops for the rip fence?

[Bill Huber]

You can see the brace in this image.
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/83061777

Bill, nice job fabricating those additions to you saw. Those blocks at the rear of the table - stops for the rip fence?

That is the stock 1953 outfeed roller that came with the saw, its not bad at all it works very well.