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nick brigg
05-20-2008, 8:09 PM
I've been thinking lately, since you're supposed to keep the face tight up against the fence when edge jointing...why not use one of those magnetic featherboards or 2? one on the infeed and one on the outfeed side? anyone out there already thought of this one?

glenn bradley
05-20-2008, 8:39 PM
I've been thinking lately, since you're supposed to keep the face tight up against the fence when edge jointing...why not use one of those magnetic featherboards or 2? one on the infeed and one on the outfeed side? anyone out there already thought of this one?

Doesn't everybody?

Randal Cobb
05-20-2008, 8:43 PM
I say it depends on what you're doing... for wider jointers, when planing the wide surface of a board, you typically want to plane with the board at an angle to reduce plane marks in the face of the board. When edge jointing (after planing the wide face) it's fine to use them because you now have a flat surface to mate against the fence.

Dewey Torres
05-20-2008, 8:47 PM
I use them sometimes but usually consistent hand pressure as you are feeding is the way to go.
Dewey

Peter Quinn
05-20-2008, 9:03 PM
Never even considered it. Not even worth the short time it takes to set it up. Put me down as "For what?" Sharp knives, good technique and a light touch are all it takes to nail that exercise. Some guys hate preparing stock and push to get through that part. For me stepping up to the jointer with rough boards is one of my favorite experiences in the wood shop. Its the perfect time to begin to get acquainted with the wood your going to be working, and I wouldn't want any unnecessary devices interfering with the process.

I've been dying to get a set of magnetic feather boards for the table saw where you really need their pressure to keep things in proper alignment moving past the blade. I get by with a few shop made versions that lock into the miter slot or clamp on the fence, but that quicker set up time would be a major plus.

Pat Germain
05-20-2008, 10:27 PM
Push blocks work fine for me. Perhaps featherboards would help when edge jointing, but I'm not sure how much they'd help for face jointing.

Glenn, if it works for you, great. Go with it, baby. This is just my take.

nick brigg
05-21-2008, 3:49 AM
i just find i get the best results when i keep the pressure low on the fence, having feather boards would just make me feel safer, was just wondering if anyone else was up to this too :)

Jim Becker
05-21-2008, 9:22 AM
Since jointing requires a lot of "feel", I would find feather boards to be a hindrance to my technique in most situations. What might help is a taller fence, however that gives you more support when edge jointing. (My J/P has a tall fence and I really like it) For face jointing, the fence really is immaterial so there is no need for keeping the work on the fence. In fact, 99.999% of the boards I face joint go through skewed to provide a shearing cut from the tool for cleaner results. And when face jointing, a feather board attached to the fence to hold it down on the outfeed side might have the "pressure" in the wrong place for that particular board, depending on where the high spots are. You do not want to distort the board with the "pressure" either as you will not effectively remove the high spots then.

Jesse Cloud
05-21-2008, 10:04 AM
I bandsaw my own veneer, then edge joint the slices on the jointer. I have found the mag featherboard invaluable for that.

glenn bradley
05-21-2008, 10:11 AM
Push blocks work fine for me. Perhaps featherboards would help when edge jointing, but I'm not sure how much they'd help for face jointing.

Glenn, if it works for you, great. Go with it, baby. This is just my take.

I'm sorry guys. I was actually just trying to be funny but it came off as serious. I should have been a little goofier about it :D.

As a serious response, I feel a lot like Peter; machining down rough lumber into usable material is enjoyable to me. If your machine is appropriately sized for the task and setup correctly, it is really difficult to not get a good result.

P.s. Next time I try my hand at dry humor, I'll add a little smiley face ;)

Mark Singer
05-21-2008, 10:19 AM
I only use then in certain situations . If the fence is angled they keep the board from sliding out....etc

nick brigg
05-21-2008, 4:39 PM
Hummm i'm with jim. i think a taller fence would really help me. i have to hammer A3-31 and i just dont like the fence sad to say. I've always felt nervous using my hand as a "featherboard" to keep the stock against the fence when edge jointing, face jointing is a piece of cake and i do love milling lumber, just not edge jointing ha!

Frank Drew
05-21-2008, 6:46 PM
I bandsaw my own veneer, then edge joint the slices on the jointer. I have found the mag featherboard invaluable for that.

I could see that although I've never done it.

For solid wood I've never felt the need for a hold-in although I don't think it's a terrible idea on its face.

Peter Quinn
05-21-2008, 7:01 PM
I just looked at that jointer at a wood working show, nice machine, but I had my doubt's about that fence design in general. I was more impressed by the minimax fence to be honest. Can you attach a shop made auxilary fence to the aluminum plate to give you a bit more height when edge jointing, or will that kick the whole thing out of allignment?

On a jointer fence I really like an equal and opposite force to be applied right where I'm putting pressure on the fence, and on edge jointing thats just past the cutter head near the center of the fence. I think mini max is the only euro combo that runs a center mounted fence. Can't say I'm a huge fan of mounting a fence to the leading edge of the infeed table.

nick brigg
05-21-2008, 8:58 PM
I just looked at that jointer at a wood working show, nice machine, but I had my doubt's about that fence design in general. I was more impressed by the minimax fence to be honest. Can you attach a shop made auxilary fence to the aluminum plate to give you a bit more height when edge jointing, or will that kick the whole thing out of allignment?

On a jointer fence I really like an equal and opposite force to be applied right where I'm putting pressure on the fence, and on edge jointing thats just past the cutter head near the center of the fence. I think mini max is the only euro combo that runs a center mounted fence. Can't say I'm a huge fan of mounting a fence to the leading edge of the infeed table.


Ah so thats the reason it osts more $$ :P. i notice as i edge joint, the fence sorta bends on the outfeed side from the pressure i apply on the fence, and trust me i dont put too much. only design flaw i see, which sucks a great deal!

Pat Germain
05-21-2008, 10:43 PM
I'm sorry guys. I was actually just trying to be funny but it came off as serious. I should have been a little goofier about it :D.

As a serious response, I feel a lot like Peter; machining down rough lumber into usable material is enjoyable to me. If your machine is appropriately sized for the task and setup correctly, it is really difficult to not get a good result.

P.s. Next time I try my hand at dry humor, I'll add a little smiley face ;)

Ahhh, gee, Glenn. I didn't know you were just giving us the business. You had a picture and everything!

It's not often someone can yank my chain without me knowing it. Good on ya. ;)