Router Start and Stop

[Jerry Booher]

This is embarrassing, but I need help starting and stopping my new Hitachi M12SC router before I injure myself. I sold my Craftsman with the switch in the handle. For a round over, I placed the old router on the work piece, sighted through the opening to be sure I was in the right place, and squeezed the switch with one finger. When finished, I eased the finger pressure on the handle switch. Total control even though it was a hard start.

With the new Hitachi I am doing the same thing, except after placing the router on the work, I cannot see the bit. Then holding on with one hand I reach onto the top to flip the tiny switch on. I return my hand to the router, but by then the Hitachi is at full speed. I guess where the corner is and if I am lucky I can start near the end, back up until it slips off the corner and then travel forward.

Now comes the tricky part. Maybe it is a habit from the Craftsman where I could just ease the finger pressure on the handle switch and lift the router off the work. I begin to lift the spinning Hitachi and realize I need a third hand to shut it off. So I set it down on a corner of the work or on the bench, try to balance it with one hand on the router, and reach up and turn it off.

Balancing the edge of the router when rounding over seems to be my big problem. Hanging on after finishing a dado, groove or rabbet is also a problem for me.

I am really worried I am going to have the spinning router land in my lap or on my thigh due to my flawed technique. Set me straight, please!

Jerry

[Steve Leverich]

Maybe one of these?

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=908-190&gclid=CM3w19eGtpMCFRMYagodNH8dCg

For what you're doing, I'd probably go with the momentary... Steve

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I am really worried I am going to have the spinning router land in my lap or on my thigh due to my flawed technique. Set me straight, please!


Your tech' ain't flawed. The router is a beast. Nothing like a hand held shaper is there~?

[Mike Henderson]

I bought a separate D handle router just because of the problems you mention. I wound up in the emergency room trying to do what you describe. Chewed up my little finger when the router got away from me.

That D handle router was MUCH cheaper than the emergency room visit.

Mike

[Richard M. Wolfe]

The foot switch looks like a good option. I thought maybe something like a stand to sit it on with an opening deep and wide enough to accomodate any of your bits and five or six cleats (dogs) around the edge just outside the base of the router to keep it from moving when it's set down. Just another one of my half-vast thoughts. :)

I have an old Craftsman of the kind you describe. I don't have a Hitachi but I do have a new PC and would like to have a word with whoever came up with the type and placement of the switch. With my old D handle I could just 'bump' the switch and check to see everything was set and tightened down. With the new one by the time I can turn it off it's up to full speed.

[Ben Rafael]

A footswitch and a hand held router seems like an accident waiting to happen.

[glenn bradley]

Your tech' ain't flawed. The router is a beast. Nothing like a hand held shaper is there~?
I think Cliff made the same assumption I did; that this was an M12V. The SC is only an 11amp model. Based on the motor diameter I would be tempted to use a body grip and hit the switch with my other hand.

With your comfort with the trigger switch, a momentary contact foot switch would probably be best for you.

[Chris Padilla]

Make a larger "counter-balanced" base for the router. Pat Warner may have something for you on his site. Less than half the router's base is on the wood in most roundover/edge treatment router operations. Not good for woodworking and not safe.

Or go with one of the smaller handheld routers. I LOVE my little Bosch Colt. So light and easy to handle and for roundovers, you have much more control than some of those larger/heavier routers.

Perhaps a router table is in your future, Jerry?

[Tom Henderson2]

I have a Sears router, and while there are many things i don't like about it, the switch-on-the-handle is one feature I really like.

I wonder why it isn't more prevalent.

-TH

[Tom Veatch]

...I wonder why it isn't more prevalent.
...

My guess is that many of this class of routers have interchangable bases, i.e. fixed base/plunge base, where the router motor is independent of the base so the switch is mounted on the motor. IMO, not only inconvenient, but dangerous.

Wouldn't have to be that way if there was an electrical connection (short connecting plugin cable?) between the base and the motor. Then the switch could be mounted on/near the handle. Probably add a few bucks to the cost as well as a minor inconveniece to swapping bases, but would be a definite improvement in safety and control of the router.

[George B. Tracy]

I just googled the Hitachi-that's a long reach to off. I'd second Chris' sentiments on a larger base. I have different sized Lexan 1/4"/3/8" thick bases b/c I'm in love with my fingers (all 10 all whole) as well. For edge cutting I've made them about 15" wide and lead the cutting edge with about an extra 1/2" over the base size. You could at least then swing it out away from the cut and still have a the base on the piece to switch it off. I'd say a small D-handle dedicated would be the best. I know you just bought it but it would still make a real good base for a table mount.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have the same issue with my Bosch 1617. After I finish up another project or two I'll be making a router stopping center, a jig modelled after those ROS stopping centers that you see published in so many shop tips. This will buy me two things; 1. a way and place to set the router while it has a bit in the chuck, 2. somewhere to stand the router while the bit is starting and stopping while I am reaching for the switch.

[Jerry Booher]

Thanks for all the good tips, guys. I am starting to unlearn my habit of lifting it off the work, starting to turn it over, and then realizing I cannot turn it off. I like the idea of a wider base. A small half circle is too tippy for my skill level.

I am currently building a router table/cabinet in the end of the TS.

Jerry

[Vince Shriver]

A footswitch and a hand held router seems like an accident waiting to happen.

I agree with you, Ben. I'm a bit clumsy (and I'm being very generous to myself when I say a "bit"), and my having to watch out for a cord at my feet as well as the one at hand level would be a prelude to a train wreck.

D-Handle is the ticket.

[Brian Weick]

I am currently building a router table/cabinet in the end of the TS.

Jerry[/quote]


that is exactly what I was going to recommend to you. I have the PC 890 and I have the same issue when it comes to having power control right at your fingertips. Mine is at the top as well. I have a feeling the manufacturers don't want the switch write on the handles ~ which would be the way to go ~ safety issues and lawsuits are probably why they have moved it to the top, just my assumption. What they could have done is mount the switch in the handle , but have a safety slide on it , so you have to slide it down with you thumb into the push position, then push it in to power it up. Just an idea I had~ it is very awkward the way they have it engineered, just my 2 cents.
Anyways,
the best way I would have to say is drop her in a router lift, mount her on the right side of your table saw extension and your good to go~ there is much,much more ease of operation and quality of the operation of the router and the quality of the work ends in a very professional outcome on what ever project is utilizing a profile procedure, in my opinion
Can't wait to see your new router set up~:)
Brian

[Josiah Bartlett]

I like the switch style on my DW 621. It has a little safety on the top that doubles as a switch lock, so you don't turn it on by accident but you can still lock it on if you want.