Wood gloat and some questions. Sorry for the long post.

[Toney Robertson]

Well, I think I finally have something to gloat about. Wednesday the nephew of the guy I work with told him that he was cutting down a tree for a neighbor and he wondered if I would be interested in the log. He said he thought it was maple.

Well, I went to look at the log and was stunned by the spalting. In my limited experience the wood is at the perfect stage - well spalted but very little really soft wood. Of course I sent the forklift down to haul the tree back to my business. Then I found out that he had cut up some of it to BURN at campfires. I talked him out of that with the promise that he could cut wood out of my Mom's woods and I would turn him a bowl.

Here is the truck load of pieces that he was going to burn.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj101/iublue/114-1496_IMG.jpg

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj101/iublue/115-1502_IMG.jpg

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj101/iublue/114-1498_IMG.jpg

Here is the log. The butt of the log even has some spalting around the perimeter.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj101/iublue/114-1500_IMG.jpg

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj101/iublue/114-1499_IMG.jpg

Now if someone could answer some questions for me.

1. Should I seal everything just like it was a freshly cut tree. I have sealed the ends of the log but I have not done the pieces yet.

2. Is removing the pith as important with spalted wood? There is a couple of pieces that I would like to turn that includes the pith and I was wondering if it would still be inclined to crack.

3. Should I still turn to 10%, bag and allow to dry like normal fresh cut wood?

Any other information about dealing with "green" spalted wood would be appreciated. Before someone asks - shipping to dispose of is not an option of how to deal with it. :D

TIA

Toney

By the way, as soon as my chainsaw is out of the shop there is about 2-3 feet of the butt of the log still left to cut off the stump AND there is another dead maple tree in the yard that they want out. I don't know if it is spalted but I am hoping.

[Brian Brown]

Nice haul! May you rot in ... oh wait it's your wood that is rotting. ;)That stuff is gorgeous. Since your not willing to ship it, I'll get the trailer hooked up, and head out there tommorrow morning. As for your questions, I really can't help you since spaulting rarely happens here in the desert. The only thing I know is that if the wood is still wet, the spalting/rotting will continue and it needs to be stopped. I'm anxiously waiting to see what you make out of that stuff. :)

[Scott Hubl]

YOU SUCK!

Wanna Trade for some Walnut?

[Bruce Pennell]

Toney nice Haul! You will be busy for a long time....Bruce

[Brian Weick]

Nice haul and that splatted maple you shot some pictures of has some incredible character in the grain structure - I have some of that in my other garage- still drying, patiently I am waiting~ It's absolutely beautiful wood! can't wait to see what comes of that- We will just have to wait.:D
Brian

[Steve Schlumpf]

Toney - Congrats on the wood score! That is some serious maple!

Regarding yoru questions, if it was my wood I would seal it all just to be safe. When the time came to turn it - I would turn to 10% and then DNA it. You can turn wood with the pith in it but you are taking a chance that it will check on you. Doesn't always happen - but it does more often than not.

Biggest thing to remember about spalted wood is that all the markings are caused by mold. You don't want to breathe that stuff and you don't want it floating all over your shop. So, use a dust collector and wear some sort of filter that will honestly protect your lungs!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nice haul Toney. Like Steve said I would seal in just as a precaution. If you are going to turn some end-grain make sure the pith is in the center of the bottom. Otherwise when turning I would CA the pith to keep it from checking.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Here in Idaho and I'm sure Brian will agree with me....that could be the wood score of the year! Congrats!

[David Wilhelm]

Seal everything you want to save. As it dries out it will crakc and split and seperate very fast. You can use paint but it will cover the ends and hide the spalting so you may want to number the blocks and keep a list of your favs. You will have better pul if you rip these and remove the pith if you are not able to turn right away. Remember sealing the ends does not keep all the moisture in the wood it just slows it down. You can use plastic wrap or bags to help. Store them out of the sun light and up off the ground. I have had luck leaving mine in the woods off the ground sealed and covered but you can't leave them for ever. termites will find them fast and they will soon rot if you have not stopped the spalting process. I turn my blanks in LDS Rough out and soak 4hours or till i'm ready to turn. drip dry on a wire rack and turn away. 98% crack free but minimal warp after drying. Or soak turn, soak, wrap in 20 sheets of news paper and set aside to dry.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Seal everything you want to save. As it dries out it will crakc and split and seperate very fast. You can use paint but it will cover the ends and hide the spalting so you may want to number the blocks and keep a list of your favs. You will have better pul if you rip these and remove the pith if you are not able to turn right away. Remember sealing the ends does not keep all the moisture in the wood it just slows it down. You can use plastic wrap or bags to help. Store them out of the sun light and up off the ground. I have had luck leaving mine in the woods off the ground sealed and covered but you can't leave them for ever. termites will find them fast and they will soon rot if you have not stopped the spalting process. I turn my blanks in LDS Rough out and soak 4hours or till i'm ready to turn. drip dry on a wire rack and turn away. 98% crack free but minimal warp after drying. Or soak turn, soak, wrap in 20 sheets of news paper and set aside to dry.




Just following this thread; what is LDS??
In regards to the questions, I turned about 15-20 roughouts of spalted sycamore a few months ago, which are still "seasoning". Sycamore moves around a LOT, and started to split right after I cut the blanks before I could seal it all, so I just roughed it all out without alcohol; I didn't have any, and didn't know where to get it for a reasonable cost. Anyway, I used a few ounces of CA glue, and they're all pretty well still intact. All are relatively warped, but I turned them thick enough to true them all, hopefully.....

Even with a 3M particulate dust/organic vapor respirator on, I definitely felt like I was coughing a little more than usual. Now, the roughed, dry bowls don't have any odor at all. I would keep the dust out of your house, and if your shop is attatched, I'd tape up the air returns I use an air cleaner, and a dust collector while turning. You don't want all those mold and fungal spores floating around for you and your family to breathe in. It isn't all that different from damp firewood in the winter, but I'm a little sensitive to mold.

[David Wilhelm]

LDS / LDD liquid dish soap