Universal Table Saw Jig sold by Woodworker's Supply

[Cary Swoveland]

Woodworker's Supply (woodworker.com) sells something called a "Universal Table Saw Jig". (It's on sale now for $45.) It's sort of like a tenoning jig, but (according to WWS's customer service) attaches to one's miter gauge. It's L-shaped, the face being 6-1/2"H x 7" square die cast aluminum. The face, which can be positioned parallel or perpendicular to the blade, has many holes, into which are inserted four locking pins. It also includes two clamps. The descriptions says it can be used to "Safely cut flawless tenons, lap joints, spline joints and tongue and groove joints".

It looks like a potentially useful jig. I am interested in whether any of you own this jig, and if so, can give me the pros and cons. I am particularly interested in knowing how it attaches to one's miter gauge, and how accurate it is (esp. whether the angles to the table and miter slot are adjustable, and if not, if they are bang-on 90--and whether the many holes are accurately positioned).

I also asked WWS's customer service the distance range from the blade side of the miter groove to the face of the jig, when set parallel to the blade: 1-3/4" to 5-7/8". I wanted to make sure it would work with my Sawstop. (It will.)

Cary

[Steve Flavin001]

at WWS as P/N 30254. It does not attach to miter fence but rides in the miter slot on the saw and turns 90 degrees for parallel or perp. use. I bought one 25 or 30 years ago (at then full price of $15 at Sears :D ). (I think I still have it holding a door open somewhere or as a paper weight for the newspapers to be picked up :p )

You clamp the workpiece (wp) to the face by positioning the half-clamp in any one of a myriad number of predetermined holes for common angle multiples and to that extent it works nicely. Then, if you want to change the position of the original or a new wp you dissemble the half-clamp (two of them as needed) :rolleyes: and the positioning angle brackets and reposition them with bolts and nuts and start all over. Very time consuming and no adjustments other than moving wp under clamps. It does slide in/out - to/from the blade to allow for width of cut but that is as close as it comes to resembling a tenoning jig. Same thing is made under a zillion dififferent labels at different stores. I attempted to post a copy of the WWS photo here but failed - see WWS part number 30254.

My suggestion is you save the proposed cost (plus S&H) and use the loot to buy the common "Heavy duty Tenon jig" for $60 - $80 currently available everywhere.

[Joe Spear]

I've had one for a few years. It has its own miter bar to slide in your miter slot. That's all right when you're sliding the face parallel to the saw blade, but if you're cross cutting, you would have to fasten it to a miter gauge. I've never tried that, though.

I have used it very little, mainly for cutting spline slots in the corners of picture frames. It can be used as a tenoning jig, and I plan to try it out for that purpose as soon as I get some time to do some woodworking. You move the pegs around to various holes to angle your workpiece and then clamp in place with the supplied clamps. Depending on the angle you need, that can get a little tedious.

WW Supply has it currently for $45 U.S. It's not a bad tool, but if you want to do only tenoning, it might be better to spend a little more on a regular tenoning jig, which they also have on sale right now.

[Steve Flavin001]

cross cutting by loosening the knob, raise the casting, and swing it 90 degrees on to the cast miter track as you point out.

But you and I independentky arrived at the same astute conclusion that this is indeed a truly underwhelming product, proving again that great minds do indeed run in like circles. :D ;)

[Joe Spear]

My great mind often runs in circles. How do I make it stop?

[Cary Swoveland]

Thanks Steve, Joe. What I wanted to know. I'll pass. BTW, I didn't provide the link because I'm never quite sure when it is permitted by SMC rules. I should read the policy about that. Cary