Saw blade reccomendation

[Dan Mages]

I need a saw blade for my 12" Delta CMS. My local tool shop, Berland's, likes to pus Tenryeu blades. Any suggestions??

[John Miliunas]

I need a saw blade for my 12" Delta CMS. My local tool shop, Berland's, likes to pus Tenryeu blades. Any suggestions??

Hey Dan, don't remember giving you a "Welcome to the Creek", yet, so "Welcome"! Great place to hang out.

CMS blades? I think I remember seeing someone post about the Tenryeu blades and mention that they're OK. By the same token, I took delivery on a new Delta 12" CMS recently and didn't really put it to actual use until I slapped a Forrest Chopmaster on it! You hear the hype about Forrest and see many positive posts, reviews, etc... Until you mount one on your saw, you won't *really* know. True, I can't compare to the Tenryeu blades, but as long as I keep that Forrest on there, I don't feel I have a need to! It cuts like a hot knife through butter. No burns, no wobble and, depending on the flavor wood you're cutting, no splintering. I'm pleased as punch with mine! :cool:

[Mike Kelly]

Dan, I have had a Tenryu blade on my Unisaw when I sent my Forrest back for sharpening. It was "almost" as good as my Forrest. It also almost cost as much too. I would go with the Forrest on the chop saw too. Tenryu has a $10 circular saw blade that I wouldn't hesitate to buy in the 7 1/4" size. In my opinion they are a very good quality, but not quite as good as Forrest.
The blade that came on my Makita SCMS appears to be similar in quality to the Forrest. Don't know what the cost is on that because it came with the saw. Haven't thought to swap it out with the Forrest on my old Ryobi since it works so well.

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Dan
Buy a Forrest and you'll never have to sand end grain. That's my $0.02.
Daniel :rolleyes:

[Rob Horton]

Dan
Buy a Forrest and you'll never have to sand end grain. That's my $0.02.
Daniel :rolleyes:

Wow. I've never tried one but have been drooling over them for awhile. Those Forrest blades are that good huh?

[Jim Becker]

Those Forrest blades are that good huh?

Many of us feel that way and generally, in the magazine tests, they also come out on top. I've been using them pretty much since I got started in this hobby and have also had good experiences with the company, both for advise and for sharpening. (since I'm on the east coast, the latter is efficient; left-coast folks might want to use Scott's Sharpening Service near Phoenix)

I run a Forrest WW-II 40t "normally" on my saw and also have a WW-II 20t ripping blade (new custom series) and the Forrest Dado King. While I occasionally put a Freud cabinetmaker's blade on to rest the WW-II when cutting a bunch of MDF, etc, it's a rare moment for that to happen.

BTW, The Tenryeu mentioned in the original post is a very good blade from what I hear.

[Chris Padilla]

I'll put my plug in for CMT's line of saw blades but I must admit I've no experience with Forrest...except Gump. :)

[Dan Mages]

It sounds like Forrest is the way to go. Now what about Dado blades. I have about 100 budget on a set. Any reccomendations there??

Dan

Edit... Oh, should I go with the chopmaster or the Woodworker 1?

[Jim Becker]

It sounds like Forrest is the way to go. Now what about Dado blades. I have about 100 budget on a set. Any reccomendations there??

If you can up your budget slightly, you can get the Freud SD506 which is a 4-tooth chipper design. About the best value on the market, IMHO. If not, the SD206 or SD208 should be available in your price range.


Edit... Oh, should I go with the chopmaster or the Woodworker 1?

Chopmaster, for sure. WW I is for a RAS for the most part.

[John Miliunas]

It sounds like Forrest is the way to go. Now what about Dado blades. I have about 100 budget on a set. Any reccomendations there??

Dan

Edit... Oh, should I go with the chopmaster or the Woodworker 1?


IMHO, go with the Chopmaster, regular kerf and you won't look back. Sorry, can't help you with the dado blade. My current one is the Freud Dial-a-dado. Excellent and precise, but way more than a c-note. I have heard that, believe it or not, Delta has a nice dado set right around that price. :cool:

[Dale Thompson]

Dan,
"Go with a Forrest and you can sell your jointer!" That is a quote from a cousin of mine out in California. Don't blame me for the quote but he
DID build a 3 acre Redwood deck for Steven Spielberg. The specs. were simple - NO KNOTS allowed. That guy, whoever he is, must have the kind of bucks that are normal down in Spring Green. :) ;)

Dale T.

[Greg Heppeard]

Systematic makes a pretty good dado set..6 chipper teeth...quality cuts from the one I have

[Jim Becker]

"Go with a Forrest and you can sell your jointer!"

That would, of course, only apply if you strictly used your jointer for edges, rather than flattening lumber first. And it's also a very ambitious expectation given what you need to do to get a "perfectly straight" cut on a table saw, especially if the board is longer than a couple of feet and not perfectly flat to start. But honestly, I've been using Forrest blades for about five years and I wouldn't give up a jointer...no way! :D But they do leave an excellent glue-ready surface if you mind your Ps and Qs.

[Dale Thompson]

That would, of course, only apply if you strictly used your jointer for edges, rather than flattening lumber first. And it's also a very ambitious expectation given what you need to do to get a "perfectly straight" cut on a table saw, especially if the board is longer than a couple of feet and not perfectly flat to start. But honestly, I've been using Forrest blades for about five years and I wouldn't give up a jointer...no way! :D But they do leave an excellent glue-ready surface if you mind your Ps and Qs.


Jim,
That was only just a quote, most likely exaggerated. There is not a single member of my entire family who is not either a horse thief or a liar or both (usually the latter). :(

I agree with you. A COMPLETE shop requires a jointer. On the other hand, I've done a lot of that "cursed" flat stuff lately which required quite a number of edge-glued joints. The Forrest and the pocket hole jig (I've been trying that lately as an alternative to biscuits) have given me some pretty good results (remember that, to me, "pretty good" is plus or minus at least an inch). Anyway if, as you said, "you mind your ps and Qs", pocket holes work real well for glue -ups where the bottom will not be seen. Just insert one screw at a time and manually line up the next hole. It takes a bit of time but is a lot faster than sitting around watching glue dry and stumbling over clamps. :eek:

Remember also that my "glue-ups" are made to challenge the best Motocross racers in the world. :( :o :confused: ;)

Dale T.

[Dean Baumgartner]

It sounds like Forrest is the way to go. Now what about Dado blades. I have about 100 budget on a set. Any reccomendations there??

Dan

Edit... Oh, should I go with the chopmaster or the Woodworker 1?
Dan,
I saw a Freud standard stacked set 8" at the orange Borg to day just under $100. I've had a Freud set for several years, very happy with it.

Dean

[eric hann]

Hey Dale,
See you're playing with a pocket hole system. Whatcha got? At the woodworking show in Denver last year, I bought the entire KREG system. Even came with some crazy drawer slide magnet gadget. Haven't used the slide piece yet. Couldn't be happier with the pocket hole system. Only get biscuits for the dog nowadays.

[Dale Thompson]

Hey Dale,
See you're playing with a pocket hole system. Whatcha got? At the woodworking show in Denver last year, I bought the entire KREG system. Even came with some crazy drawer slide magnet gadget. Haven't used the slide piece yet. Couldn't be happier with the pocket hole system. Only get biscuits for the dog nowadays.

Eric,
I'm glad that I have found at least one more person on this board who realizes that we have entered the sixteenth century. :) Thanks for joining me in trumpeting the the advantages of being on the "cutting edge" of modern technology!! :cool:

I've only got the "basic" Kreg system but I have used it on just about every project that I've worked on since the purchase. I'll have to take a look at the drawer slide thing. I can't afford it myself but I may be able to swing a loan from mega-bucks Laguna Mark when he swings by in one of his fleet of "Gulfstreams" to help me with my burgeoning "scrap pile.

I haven't had much luck with the Kreg "modified" vise-grip clamp. I have used my own clamps to hold the joint. I find it great to drill the "pocket holes", apply glue to the joint, clamp the joint, insert the "square drive" screws, double-check the alignment of the joint, remove my ONLY set of clamps (another loan from Laguna Mark), and move on to the next joint.

I'm not going to get rid of my biscuit joiner. On the other hand, if I had any teeth left, I would definitely try to use up my biscuits by inserting a THICK layer of peanut butter between two of them and having an occasional snack. I hear that they taste a lot like Reese's Peanut Butter Cups. :D :D
HMMM!!! I can't grow new teeth but I COULD get me a dog (with a loan from Laguna).

Eric, I OBVIOUSLY like the pocket hole thing. It's amazing that they have been around for so many years but only recently picked up by the "home hobby" market. :) :) They make even my junk look sort of professional to folks who are total amateurs. I separate the "professionals" from the "amateurs" with one simple question: Do you know the difference between a table saw and a cheese sandwich? If they answer "yes", they are not allowed to inspect my "stuff". :eek: :eek:

Dale T.

[Dan Mages]

I have the Chopmaster in!! It is one substantial blade and it cuts through oak trim like butter! Thanks for the advise!

Dan