Bridgecity Jointmaker: I must have this!!!

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

bridgecitytools.com/blog/category/jointmaker-pro-stationary-hand-saw

[Jim Koepke]

Like the tool, but the price may be to choke on.

jim

[Mike Henderson]

And where's the SawStop safety function? For that price I want to see the blade retract when it hits a hot dog.

Mike

[Brent Ring]

For that price I want to see the blade retract when it hits a hot dog.

Mike

I want power for that price. It is cool - but not at that price - and it looks like it might struggle with some 8/4 hard maple!

[Zahid Naqvi]

the concept is innovative and you can't deny the results. But it takes away the portability factor of the hand saw, and the price, hmm! Besides it doesn't have the tactile quality of a hand tool that draws most of us to them.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I don't like it.

[Michael Hammers]

Not intended as an insult,
But is it not an upside down saw with adjustable angles you push the wood thru?

[Eddie Darby]

At first hand appearances, I would have thought $99 or so, which makes me now wonder where they used the gold plating, since I can't see any in the photos.:confused::eek::rolleyes:;)

[Chris Padilla]

Well, I just bought 5 of 'em to hand out to you guys for Xmas but since you don't seem to like it....

;)

Bridge City and Festool are really owned by the same guy. ;)

[Steven Wilson]

I could see it for small pieces as well as for cutting fret slots.

[Dewey Torres]

Well Jim,
Since "you must have this" ... please write a review once you get it.:D
Dewey

[Jim Koepke]

Chris, like so many tools, I love the tool but not the price.

I have been looking at this to see if there may be a way to build my own.

You can PM me for a shipping address.

jim

[Doug Shepard]

Well, I just bought 5 of 'em to hand out to you guys for Xmas ....

Wanna adopt me?:D

[Doug Shepard]

I could see it for small pieces as well as for cutting fret slots.

I kind of wondered if this might appeal to luthiers. I didn't notice the kerf thickness but wonder if it might be the same as many fret tangs. That might not be a coincidence.

[Chris Padilla]

I buddy of mine thought it would be good for modelers and dollhouse makers but they may not like the price! :)

[Jack Camillo]

next best thing since the meat slicer. Oh, wait, I bet you could make something similar from a meat slicer.
Actually the guy's got a lot of tool imagination, which is a good thing. Did someone say 99 dollars?

[Frederick Rowe]

So is this the Neanderthal's Festool Kapex?

[Jameel Abraham]

I used this saw a couple months ago at a Lie-Nielsen hand tool event in Chicago. I was quite captivated by it.

This tool does one thing exceptionally well. It cuts perfect miters and compound miters to the same precision (actually, greater) as a powered miter saw would cut a piece of crown or baseboard, only with this tool you can cut exceptionally small and fragile pieces, and eliminate the waste a carbide blade takes. I use lots of veneer laminations for the marquetry I make, and this tool would eliminate an entire step in my production process. I can go straight from sawing to glue-up, with no glue line. For me, it would be heaven sent for some of the work I do.

I'm very very tempted save my pennies for one of these, since it would save me oodles of time, and basically completely reorient the way I work.

For fine, detailed work at the high end, this is an awesome tool.

[John Shuk]

I used this saw a couple months ago at a Lie-Nielsen hand tool event in Chicago. I was quite captivated by it.

This tool does one thing exceptionally well. It cuts perfect miters and compound miters to the same precision (actually, greater) as a powered miter saw would cut a piece of crown or baseboard, only with this tool you can cut exceptionally small and fragile pieces, and eliminate the waste a carbide blade takes. I use lots of veneer laminations for the marquetry I make, and this tool would eliminate an entire step in my production process. I can go straight from sawing to glue-up, with no glue line. For me, it would be heaven sent for some of the work I do.

I'm very very tempted save my pennies for one of these, since it would save me oodles of time, and basically completely reorient the way I work.

For fine, detailed work at the high end, this is an awesome tool.

That is how this saw strikes me as well.
I don't do that kind of work but I can appreciate what looks like a fine tool for those who do.

[Kevin Groenke]

Being in a architecture student shop, our users are often closer to spinning blades than they should be. The JointMaker looks like a well conceived, engineered and constructed tool which would be a safer alternative too a power tool (even the Proxxon/Microlux 4" tablesaws can do significant damage). This "machine" would have great utility for model builders, I'll have to ponder it over the summer, maybe after my budget #'s come in.

I have a couple Bridge City pieces: highly functional tools which are beautiful to behold. I can accept the premium for such quality in a square or marking gauge, but $1200 for a glorified miter box is really hard to swallow. Good thing it isn't my money! The worst part of it is that I am 100% certain that if I were to get one, something would be broken before the end of the week: dang students!

-kg

[Steven Wilson]

I kind of wondered if this might appeal to luthiers. I didn't notice the kerf thickness but wonder if it might be the same as many fret tangs. That might not be a coincidence.
the kerf thickness does sound familiar. For frets (unless the kerf was spot on) I would probably remove the saw and install an arbor, pully, and small motor. On the arbor I would install a sloting cutter of the correct size for the fret tangs. Do that and you would have an exact copy of a machine a luthier acquaintence of mine had made by a retired machinest.

[Will Blick]

Cost, $1295, member price $999.

Jameel, I did not fully understand your post, can you elaborate on the application and the value you see in this tool.

I am curious what operations are beneficial on this tool vs. conventional tools? Obviously, you have the person who takes pride in NOT using power tools. But outside of that justification, I am trying to see the applications that gives this saw value. A few guesses...

1) Kerf might be very thin, so material savings for cutting thin small veneers.

2) Accurate hand cut dovetails. Or at least, easier.

3) Glue ready cuts?? Better than a TS??

4) Very small wood pieces, but then, you would need very fine blades vs. what is shown cutting through larger stock.

5) I would like to suggest safety, but unless their is a sliding guard put on the blade, not so sure its very safe.


OK Creekers, help me out, what other applications will this saw have value?

I also wonder if a tool like this has ever been made before. If nothing else, I give BCT credit for such innovative thinking, its nice to see good ol American desire to build a better mousetrap is alive and well, even in a field that is hundreds of years old...and who thought a hand saw could be revolutionized?


At this price, I would like to see the blade be set to rise automatically each stroke, vs. having to push, then hand crank up the blade, over n over. I think it would add tremendously to the "usability" factor.


I agree with a few other posters in the power tool forum, where this thread started.... I think this tool will surely generate interest. Heck, a good miter box can run $200+ easily. This tools is much more versatile, however, at this price point, it will miss a bulk of the market....and, I am willing to bet, BCT got a rock solid patent before pursuing the tool. So I doubt we will be seeing Asian knock-offs...but I have been wrong before.

I own several BCT tools, and have been very happy with the tools and the service they offer....

[Doug Shepard]

Aint this why Dubbya invented the Economaki Stimulus Package?:confused:

[Michael Fross]

BCT was at the Chicago LN event a month or two ago and I sat and watched the tool being demoed for about an hour. It's very interesting.

Besides the workbench it was clamped to being very wobbly, it was fairly amazing. The cuts were perfect, safe, and the whole thing was just really innovative. He showed easy dovetail cuts, very small and perfectly cut miters, etc.

I was thinking this might be something for the shop, but I agree, I coughed at the price. $199. No brainer. $299, well sure. $1000, I'll have to pass. But that's just me.

Michael

[Raney Nelson]

For the DIY home furniture builder this is pretty unnecessary, and very expensive, but I'd just like to point out that for many applications, people have no qualms at all about spending $2-3k for an edge sander, and no one calls them insane. Think about it: $2-3 thousand dollars for a motor a table and two rollers? Truth is if it makes production easier and/or better it's worth it for anyone making their living in woodworking.

Personally, I'll never own one of these (or an edge sander) but that doesn't limit my admiration for the design.

Oh - and as for the cuts, Chris Schwarz has gone on record saying they were the cleanest he'd ever seen. Including table saws.

[Randy Klein]

Let's all remember (or be informed for the fist time) that this "table saw" was bourne from a competition between Chris Schwarz, Adam Cherubini, John Economaki, etc on who can cut the the thinnest slice off the end of a board. It was in a blog somewhere. So I don't think it was invented for a particular market, but was more invented to win their competition and then he probably thought, "Hey, this is neat. I wonder if anyone else would like it." At least that's my take on it.

[Raney Nelson]

Let's all remember (or be informed for the fist time) that this "table saw" was bourne from a competition between Chris Schwarz, Adam Cherubini, John Economaki, etc on who can cut the the thinnest slice off the end of a board. It was in a blog somewhere. So I don't think it was invented for a particular market, but was more invented to win their competition and then he probably thought, "Hey, this is neat. I wonder if anyone else would like it." At least that's my take on it.

That was part of Chris Schwarz's back-story, but not the reason for the saw. The 'contest' (which was just a spur of the moment 'let's see who can saw the thinnest sliver') was only about 6 or 8 months ago - this has obviously been in the works longer than that.

[Pedro Reyes]

Just curious....

If anyone uses this to cut dovetails, would we still call them "hand-cut" dovetails?

And if so, how do we distinguish those from ones cut using just saws and chisels?

peace

/p

[Eddie Darby]

Does anyone know, or can anyone give us an educated estimate of what maximum thickness of wood it can cut?

Perhaps we are dealing with a decimal point that got misplaced?:confused::D

[Corvin Alstot]

Being in a architecture student shop, our users are often closer to spinning blades than they should be. The JointMaker looks like a well conceived, engineered and constructed tool which would be a safer alternative too a power tool (even the Proxxon/Microlux 4" tablesaws can do significant damage). This "machine" would have great utility for model builders, I'll have to ponder it over the summer, maybe after my budget #'s come in.

I have a couple Bridge City pieces: highly functional tools which are beautiful to behold. I can accept the premium for such quality in a square or marking gauge, but $1200 for a glorified miter box is really hard to swallow. Good thing it isn't my money! The worst part of it is that I am 100% certain that if I were to get one, something would be broken before the end of the week: dang students!-kg
I agree with you. But, tired hurried students and spinning blades is a bad combination. $1200 would be cheap in comparison to a hospital visit.

[Allan Froehlich]

I Would Buy It!

A tool like that is exceptionally well suited to cutting the small inlay strips that I need when I build American Federal and Hepplewhite furniture styles.

On a recent project, I spent nearly 100 hours cutting 1/8 inch wide strips to fit into the notches I cut into the tops and legs of three tables. I probably messed up on half of the cuts. My preferred method was to hold the strip against a small piece of wood clamped to the top of my work bench. Next, I'd use a Japanese pull-saw to cut the strip. I always cut the strips a little long so that I could make the angled ends with a chisel. The whole process was very painful in that I probably cut my fingers 20 times during the process. One of these cuts was bad enough to keep me from proceeding on the project for a few days.

Over the next few weeks, I will be building more of these tables and I could really use a saw like that.

I just can't cut small pieces on a powered miter saw like that!

I also do model railroading and radio control airplanes. A saw like this could cut down the time required to build a plane (like my 1/4 piper cub) by 90%!!!

I think something like that would be worth about $600, but I could imagin paying that much for it. I'd also write some letters to the company trying to see if I could get a discount somehow.

[Andrew Homan]

Jameel,
I appreciate the comments that you made about this tool.
At first, my reaction to it was to think that it is ridiculous -- but after watching the video several times, I know think that it is ridiculous and ingenious, and I want one very badly! I'd like to use it for an instrument-building project that involves some very small parts.
-Andy

[Allan Froehlich]

Just curious....

If anyone uses this to cut dovetails, would we still call them "hand-cut" dovetails?

And if so, how do we distinguish those from ones cut using just saws and chisels?

peace

/p

I'd say that they are still hand-cut. Remember, no power tools used.

The only problem I see with this machine is that it will not allow you to make blind dovetails.

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Like the tool, but the price may be to choke on.
jim

looked at the site listed and watched the video but did not see the pricing, or I missed it. What is the pricing on this tool?

[Kevin Groenke]

I agree with you. But, tired hurried students and spinning blades is a bad combination. $1200 would be cheap in comparison to a hospital visit.

You're absolutely right Corvin, we paid $6000 to replace perfectly functional cabinet saws with safer ones a few years back, so the expense wouldn't be unreasonable. I'm uncertain that the JointMaster would be substantially safer than the 4" microlux tablesaws or the 9" bandsaws (w/10tpi blades) that are frequently used for small work. I've gotten myself with a dozuki: it is not a pretty thing.

Allen, here are a couple of less expensive options that you might consider for inlay bits:

We've got a couple of each of these mounted on boards with fences and scales, they work great for small scale stock. The cut-off saw will also cut thin wall brass tubing and shapes better than anything else we've tried.

Being from HF it is a somewhat disposable tool, but WDYE for $25. Proxxon also makes one but it's ~$200.

MicroMart has one for ~$140.




MINI CUT-OFF SAW http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/42300-42399/42307.gif




http://www.micromark.com/prodimgs/82439.jpg

[Doug Shepard]

Jameel
Since you've test-driven one of these maybe you can answer a couple questions I dont see answered in the BCT webpages.
It looks like you need to turn the handcrank continually to raise the blade and advance the cut. But is there a stop mechanism somewhere to stop the cut at a fixed height? They show a half-lapped project so I'm thinking there must be something, but...?? Or do you just have to saw to a layout line on the stock?

The other thing they dont mention is the max cutting depth at the 45 degrees. If I've done my trig right, I think it's just a hair over an inch but wondered if there's anything special going on with the tilt mechanism that would change that. Did you get a chance to check that type of cut out?

[Eddie Darby]

I see that the webpage now gives the max thickness as 1-1/2".

[Doug Shepard]

I see that the webpage now gives the max thickness as 1-1/2".

But both the video and an email quote from the owner posted on the FOG website say 1-5/8". Kinda makes you wonder why 1-1/2" show up on the BCTW site.

[D-Alan Grogg]

John demo'ed the Jointmaker about 3 weeks ago at a dinner I attended at Marc Adams School. He also let anyone try it out, which I did. It is a deceptively simple tool, but also quite ingenious. In my opinion, there is no question that it would be a fantastic tool to have for every type of cut shown on the BCT website. For small pieces, for repeatable (compound) miters, it is a no-brainer. It is incredibly precise and nearly silent.

Regarding safety, it is very safe because it is hand powered. Every cut is made in a deliberate fashion. Yes, you might get nicked, but your natural reaction would be to let go and pull your hand away. If you are totally oblivious, then a full stroke could cut a finger off. But, you could do the same with any sharp hand saw if you were careless. And, there are no issues with kickback or getting pulled into the blade as there would be in a power saw.

I do plan to get one.

[Jameel Abraham]

Jameel
Since you've test-driven one of these maybe you can answer a couple questions I dont see answered in the BCT webpages.
It looks like you need to turn the handcrank continually to raise the blade and advance the cut. But is there a stop mechanism somewhere to stop the cut at a fixed height? They show a half-lapped project so I'm thinking there must be something, but...?? Or do you just have to saw to a layout line on the stock?

The other thing they dont mention is the max cutting depth at the 45 degrees. If I've done my trig right, I think it's just a hair over an inch but wondered if there's anything special going on with the tilt mechanism that would change that. Did you get a chance to check that type of cut out?

Doug, I think to make non through cuts you just move the sled past the end of the blade, stop cranking when to get to your depth. You dont raise the blade as you cut, just between cuts. I dont remember the max cut at 45. But all the cuts John made (and me, a first time user!) were flawless, 45, 90, and everything in between.


Jameel,
I appreciate the comments that you made about this tool.
At first, my reaction to it was to think that it is ridiculous -- but after watching the video several times, I know think that it is ridiculous and ingenious, and I want one very badly! I'd like to use it for an instrument-building project that involves some very small parts.
-Andy

I want one too!


Cost, $1295, member price $999.

Jameel, I did not fully understand your post, can you elaborate on the application and the value you see in this tool.

I am curious what operations are beneficial on this tool vs. conventional tools? Obviously, you have the person who takes pride in NOT using power tools. But outside of that justification, I am trying to see the applications that gives this saw value. A few guesses...

1) Kerf might be very thin, so material savings for cutting thin small veneers.

2) Accurate hand cut dovetails. Or at least, easier.

3) Glue ready cuts?? Better than a TS??

4) Very small wood pieces, but then, you would need very fine blades vs. what is shown cutting through larger stock.

5) I would like to suggest safety, but unless their is a sliding guard put on the blade, not so sure its very safe.


OK Creekers, help me out, what other applications will this saw have value?

I also wonder if a tool like this has ever been made before. If nothing else, I give BCT credit for such innovative thinking, its nice to see good ol American desire to build a better mousetrap is alive and well, even in a field that is hundreds of years old...and who thought a hand saw could be revolutionized?

At this price, I would like to see the blade be set to rise automatically each stroke, vs. having to push, then hand crank up the blade, over n over. I think it would add tremendously to the "usability" factor.

I agree with a few other posters in the power tool forum, where this thread started.... I think this tool will surely generate interest. Heck, a good miter box can run $200+ easily. This tools is much more versatile, however, at this price point, it will miss a bulk of the market....and, I am willing to bet, BCT got a rock solid patent before pursuing the tool. So I doubt we will be seeing Asian knock-offs...but I have been wrong before.

I own several BCT tools, and have been very happy with the tools and the service they offer....

This is not a table saw by any means. It's for delicate, precision work. It would not be used to cross cut stock for example, but rather for cutting joints, as the name implies. And by joints I'm talking dovetails, miters, etc. Anything small or precision. See this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=51629) for examples of some of the work I would be using it for.

[Will Blick]

Jameel, thank you for the link.... I must have missed that one :-(

I can surely see the value of the jointmaker pro for such delicate work....

I am curious.... is there any good resources you have learned from to make such wonderful inlays? It's such a clever approach to inlays, i.e. cutting up multi joined boards into a pattern joining pieces. The example you provided was stunning. Any books that give good examples / techniques for such? Very inspirational work you do!! Thank you for sharing!

Oh, one final question. When cutting such fine inlays, what tools have you tried, what works best? I assume you have tried many cutting tools for these delicate and precision cuts, hence your enthusiasm over the JointMaker Pro. I never would have suspected a hand saw blade would make a cut as smooth as small precision spinning round blade, such as the proxon Table saw?

[Jameel Abraham]

Jameel, thank you for the link.... I must have missed that one :-(

I can surely see the value of the jointmaker pro for such delicate work....

I am curious.... is there any good resources you have learned from to make such wonderful inlays? It's such a clever approach to inlays, i.e. cutting up multi joined boards into a pattern joining pieces. The example you provided was stunning. Any books that give good examples / techniques for such? Very inspirational work you do!! Thank you for sharing!

Oh, one final question. When cutting such fine inlays, what tools have you tried, what works best? I assume you have tried many cutting tools for these delicate and precision cuts, hence your enthusiasm over the JointMaker Pro. I never would have suspected a hand saw blade would make a cut as smooth as small precision spinning round blade, such as the proxon Table saw?

I figured out how to make these with careful study, but they are not that difficult really. Just some angles to learn. I use small miter boxes with japanese saws, and small miter shoots for truing the angles if need be. I don't know of any good books that focus on this type of work. Strike that, I did see a book once on making inlay banding, but it was basic stuff. I use tiny endmills in a dremel for routing inlay mortises. I never used a Proxon saw.

[Floyd Mah]

I've been fascinated by the JMP since I followed a link to the Youtube video. The task I have in mind: cutting wide tenons in narrow stock in a controlled, repeatable fashion with a Japanese saw, would be easy in a similarly fixated saw blade. But $1300 is a lot of money and the JMP isn't exactly suited for tenon cutting. Its' strength seems to be with dovetails or transverse cuts across long, flat stock. I decided to make my own tenon-making saw, borrowing the blade arrangement. This saw can be made for a little under $1300. Plus I can use my tenon jig with it.

The parts list includes my existing Delta contractor saw which I have upgraded over the years with a Uni-Fence, a sliding table and an overhead blade guard, roughly $1200 in all. A 10" circular saw blade, with a few broken teeth, from my radial arm saw (accidentally cut a chisel in half--luckily only the chisel was hurt in that mishap), $2 of U-bolts(2) and a 7/16" bolt, a 1/4" screw and various wing-nuts, and $28 dollars for a Japanese saw blade. The blade in question comes from Japanwoodworker in Alameda, CA is meant for a handle which encloses the blade in a channel and has two screws at either end to permit the saw-edge-frame distance to be adjusted as a stop against cutting too deeply into the wood. Anyway, it already comes with two slots at the ends to permit fastening onto a holder.

A chord is drawn at the top edge of the circular blade (as if it were fastened in the table saw in the usual manner), parallel to the table top. The length of the chord is made so that it corresponds to the length of the Japanese blade and so that the teeth edge of the Japanese blade would lie at the edge circular blade when fastened to it. A cut is made along this line, removing a portion of the circular blade. Holes are drilled so that the Japanese blade may be fastened to the circular saw blade, using a 3/8" x 1/8" x 10" metal bar to support the Japanese blade from the outside. This leaves the circular blade mostly circular, except that one edge is now the Japanese blade. Since the mechanism to raise and lower the blade doesn't preserve the position of the new cutting edge parallel to the table top, an additional lever arm must be attached between the circular blade and the table saw trunnion. This lever arm needs to be the same length as the existing blade raising lever arm of the table saw. I found a spot on the left trunnion bar that I could fasten a block, using the two U-bolts, through which I placed the 7/16" bolt, now perpendicular to the plane of the saw blade. The lever arm is fastened to the bolt using two snap rings. The distal part of the lever arm was fastened to the circular blade with the 1/4" screw, so that the two lever arms are always parallel in whatever position the blade height was adjusted. It would look like a parallelogram. The blade tilt is unaffected by the new lever. (Cut away any parts of the circular blade that interfere with the lever arm or new bolt).

When fastened in this way, the new blade can be raised using the existing saw mechanism and tilted with the existing mechanism. The new cutting edge maintains its angle relative to the table top, no matter the height of the cutting edge above the table. I can get approximately 1.5" of travel. The new blade also works within the throat plate, so no new plate needs to be made. The existing guide channels can be used to guide my tenon cutter or miter gauge. A sled can be made for miter cuts or other applications.

In summary, a Japanese saw blade is fixed to a circular saw blade. The new saw blade is constrained to maintain its attitude relative to the table top with a new parallelogram lever arm fastened to the saw trunnion. The usual saw adjustments are used to adjust the height and tilt of the new blade. If you already possess a table saw, then this new saw setup actually costs under $35 plus your time. Also, unplug the saw before modifying or using this new setup or you may risk great bodily injury.

[Pam Niedermayer]

Floyd, I was thinking of a similar solution, but much, much cheaper. I have some extra Japanese saw blades from LV, which I thought I'd attach to an old, unused Craftsman, unused contractor saw, in place of the circular blade. Remove the motor. Cost would be about zero for me, but maybe $80 - $150 for anyone who had to buy the blade and contractor saw.

Pam

[Marcus Ward]

For whomever asked when this thread was originally posted, fretwire tangs require a .023 slot, the kerf on this is .021, probably within fudging distance although over the stretch of 21 frets it might force some back-bow into the neck.

[Shawn Buonarosa]

Floyd , any chance you could show me a picture of the design you are describing? I'm having a hard time visualizing it.

[Floyd Mah]

Here's a photo of my saw. It's slightly dark so that you can see all the parts.

The image shows the view through the top of the table saw, with the front of the saw on the right and the back at the left, the top of the image has the right side of the saw opening.

At 9 o'clock, you can see the table saw arbor. Crossing from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock, across the bottom, you can see the remaining teeth of the circular saw blade. At the top of the picture, you can see the Japanese saw blade, attached to the circular saw with the metal bar running across the middle of the image. You can also see one of the slots in the Japanese blade that I used.

The components of the table saw are:
Pivot of the arm raising and lowering the blade at the top right corner. The raising arm extends down to the arbor diagonally behind the blade.
The trunnion bar (left one) can be seen at the bottom of the image. The trapezoid at the bottom right is the flange which holds the red saw insert (throat plate). Behind it is seen a wooden block, fastened to the trunnion bar with the pair of U-bolts. You can see the wingnuts on the top leg of each U-bolt. Embedded in the wooden block is the bolt which holds the end of the new lever arm nearest the front of the saw, the other end of the lever arm is fastened, with the wingnut and small bolt, to the bottom of the circular saw blade. You can see some of the circular saw is cut away to avoid hitting the bolt holding the new lever arm. I did offset the new pivot slightly towards the front of the saw about 1/2" to improve the clearance from the blade. The center of the new pivot is at the same level as the trunnion bar.

The parallelogram is formed from the two lever arms, the swinging end of each lever arm is attached to the circular blade: one to the saw arbor, the other via the wingnut. The stationary end of the lever arms are fastened to the trunnion. This arrangement keeps the Japanese saw teeth at a constant angle relative to the table top, despite changes in the distance of the blade above the table. It is important to measure and drill carefully to keep the parallel arrangement so that there is no binding in the movement of the various parts.

[Brandon Davis]

Floyd? First, thanks for the picture.

Question: Since the lever arm is basically to keep the modified circular saw parallel to the table top, would the same effect be achieved by locking down the belt movement from the electric motor?

Please do correct me if I'm missing something here.

...it also seems to me that some kind of manual control working off the [disconnected] electric motor would also allow you to precisely tilt the modified saw blade in the same way the BCJM is slanted (low front to high rear) ...you could just pull the belt, I s'pose, and re-"lock" it (with the speculative "locker") ...which blade angle may make the "manual sawing effort" a bit less, since the entry to the cut could be at a similar angle to what I see in the Youtube video.

[Floyd Mah]

The easy part: The tilt mechanism of the table saw stays intact, so that you can continue to use that to angle your cut.

The normal operation of the height mechanism is just to raise and lower the arbor with that lever. Since the circular blade is intended to turn, the usual operation of the saw allows the blade to rotate freely. Just securing the arbor (for example by holding onto the belt) doesn't maintain the blade in the same position relative to the table top as the lever arm is raised and lowered. You can adjust the belt each time a height change is made, but it's much simpler to incorporate the new lever arm to do that adjustment for you automatically.

My experimentation with this arrangement shows that your basic consideration is the length of your cut:
Long cuts (across wide stock) requires lower blade angles, since you have more wood under the teeth at any given time.
Leave the wood over the blade when adjusting for subsequent passes and raise the blade just enough for the lower end to be short of the maximum height of the kerf. This keeps you from cutting too aggressively and also avoids deforming the blade by trying to cut too much at once.
This tool would also be useful to make repetitive, starter cuts, when a cut deeper than the capacity of the saw is planned, so that another saw can be used to manually finish to the final depth. It just starts your cut at the right angle and correct location.

[John Schreiber]

Floyd,

You've come up with a good idea and you've done a good job explaining the concept, but I want to know how it works for you. Are you using a sled? Can you get those super precise cuts? Is it as good a JMP, or what's the difference?

[Floyd Mah]

I have tried it with a Delta tenon jig. It seems to work well with it. The reason that the Japanese saw blade works well is that once you start it, if you maintain your direction and angle, the blade pretty much will do what you want. Since the only difference between the stability of this homemade version and the JMP is how the blade is fixed, the variability is introduced by the degree of wobble in the circular saw arbor. A circular blade uses centrifugal forces to stabilize it so there isn't too much run-out. You lose this with this setup, so it depends on the tolerances of the arbor. I suspect that if you don't try cuts that are too deep, you can probably get good, reproducible results. I can place cuts on tenon stock approximately 2" thick about 3 mm apart.

The tenon jig runs on only one guide, so I think a sled would be, by design, more accurate. I'll probably try to put together a sled and see if I can get better results than with a miter gauge (which I have tried briefly).

[Kevin Groenke]

The word on the street is that Bridge City is finally shipping the JMP.

I got an email from a cohort indicating that Bridge City told him their first run of 300 units was complete and that they would begin shipping today in the order that pre-orders had been received.

According to the information received, 280 of the first run of 300 have been pre-ordered leaving 20 available. BC will not be making any more till they have orders for another 300.

Somebody at BC suggested that anyone interested should purchase one of the twenty left and if not satisfied, return it within 90 days for a full refund [less shipping i assume]. A box of five spare blades runs around $100, the tool ships with a rip and coarse x-cut.

I didn't pre-order till November, so we're a ways back on the ship list, but I'll report when we get it and try to post a review once we get some time to work it out.

-kg

[Dave Lehnert]

I had the chance to use the JMP at the Popular Woodworking shop with the owner of Bridge City Tools. It is a tool you have to see and feel in person to understand it's quality.

I love the table saw idea above. I think we all have tried to figure out a homemade vs of the JMP.

As a side note- A few years ago I purchased a 100 tip saw blade form Penn State Woodworking. I can put that in my table saw and get cuts a smooth as glass. You would not believe the quality of cut.

[Chris Padilla]

BCT was at The Crucible in Oakland, CA, for the recent Lie-Nielsen tool event and I was able to give this tool a hands on whirl.

I have to say: extremely impressive! The japanese saw blade cuts as smooth as glass. The kerf bent box is something to see in person...simply amazing.

[Doug Shepard]

...
I didn't pre-order till November, so we're a ways back on the ship list, ...

Mid-August for me so I'm a little ahead of you but I dont remember when they first started taking pre-orders so how far back in the queue I am is anyone's guess. I think they also took a number before you could actually do it on their website too. I'm crossing my fingers that I get it soon enough to use it a bit on my part of the SMC Keepsake Box collaboration.

[Berl Mendenhall]

Jameel,
I've just spent the last hour reading your thread on Oud building and your web site on Iconic Art. You are exactly the type of craftsman who should own one of these saws (I don't care what they cost). The kind of work you do takes craftsmanship to a different level.

I am new to Sawmill Creek (only a few weeks) but I've enjoyed every visit. There are some incredibly talented people that post here. Most of us do what we do alone. We spend countless hours working alone at our benches. These forums are a way to socialize with people we would never have a chance to meet. Reading your post has made my day, you are a true artist.

Berl Mendenhall

[Peter Quadarella]

I have to admit I lust after a Jointmaker. I could make one large tool purchase this year, but ~$1500 is a lot of money to spend on something like this. I'm not even sure how much I'd use it.

[Chris Padilla]

Some pics from The Crucible in Oakland, CA, at the Lie-Nielsen Handtool Event.

I wanted to add that the cross-sectional piece of oak molding in my hands is about a 1/16" thick and glass smooth on both sides coming directly off the BCJ.

[Jameel Abraham]

Berl,

Thanks for the nice comments. The Creek is a nice place indeed. I haven't been posting much lately, but I do try to keep up on what's happening around here. I don't have a JMP yet, but it's still way up there on my want list!

[Dave Lehnert]

When talking to the owner of BCT he is more than aware of the high cost of the tool. Made the comment that he would be willing to sell the patent to a company that could build it cheaper.

This type of tool IMHO would fit well in the Lee Valley line. Bet Mr Lee could shave off a few buck on the manufacture of something like this.

[Chris Padilla]

more pics....

The plastic gearing is interesting although admittedly, they aren't moving anything heavier than the saw blade and the attachment metal, which is all aluminum I believe....

[Dave Lehnert]

more pics....

The plastic gearing is interesting although admittedly, they aren't moving anything heavier than the saw blade and the attachment metal, which is all aluminum I believe....
It's not just plastic like in toys. It is a much better grade. Not sure what the name of it is. Just something to compare it to, Some lower end gas weed trimmers has there pistons made of plastic. Some hobby metal lathes gears are made of plastic. My valve covers on my Ford F150 are made of plastic. It should be up to the task of hand powered work.
The base and tables are made of aluminum. To look at it you would guess the base is stamped steel.

[Chris Padilla]

Dave,

I'm going to guess that it might be UHMW plastic? Ultra-high molecular weight. Some of us have fences and miter slot runners made of it. My BMW has a plastic radiator!! :D