Need Tips on Cutting Threshold

[Sue Wise]

I need tips on the safest method on making threshold pieces like you see in this picture:

http://www.mountainprayer.org/threshold.jpg

I figure I could do it on the tablesaw like a raised panel but it only about 3-4 inches wide. I could double-stick tape it to a backer-board and then take it through. I also could do it on the router table but then I would need to buy a raised panel bit and that is not in the budget at this time.

What is your suggestion?

Thanks,

-Sue

[Jim O'Dell]

I did the one I built on the TS, tilted the blade for the angle. Same profile you show. Make sure the cut off falls away from the fence, or you have a projectile that will be launched. After the 2 initial cuts, I rounded over the edges with an ROS. It worked well. But if you don't feel safe in doing that type of cut on the TS, then don't. Find another way to do it. Jim.

[john bateman]

You might be able to find a chamfer bit with the correct angle so that you run the stock, standing on edge, against your router table fence. (Presuming you have a router table.) That would be pretty safe, as the bit would not be exposed.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_chamf.html

[Frank Drew]

I'd use a table saw, Sue; as Jim says, only one with left tilt, so that back side of the workpiece is against the fence and the offcut ends up out on the table to the left of the blade. Cut slow and steady to prevent burns, etc.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd use a table saw, Sue; as Jim says, only one with left tilt, so that back side of the workpiece is against the fence and the offcut ends up out on the table to the left of the blade. Cut slow and steady to prevent burns, etc.

I don't understand the need to use a left-tilt saw. It seems to me you can make the cut with either a left-tilt saw or a right-tilt saw. You just need to make the cut as Jim describes: so that the offcut is not trapped against the fence.

[Frank Drew]

I'd use a table saw, Sue; as Jim says, only one with left tilt, so that back side of the workpiece is against the fence and the offcut ends up out on the table to the left of the blade. Cut slow and steady to prevent burns, etc.

If you're uncomfortable running the work on edge, you can do the job by drawing the bevels on the ends of the board and running the work face down on the saw; starting at the outside of the board, you cut a series of saw kerfs of decreasing depth, to just shy of your cut lines, flipping the board for each height setting of the blade. Leaving a bit of wood between all the kerfs will stabilize the work on the saw table, and then there will be some cleanup necessary but that won't be too awful of a job with some sharp chisels and a keen plane.

[Peter Quinn]

I have and would used either a jointer or a planer with a bevel sled (I won't explain its construction here but its quite easy to make and use) to make custom thresholds. The TS is the quickest way to make the cut, but then you have all those nasty saw marks to sand out and the potential for danger is exponentially greater than with a jointer or planer.

I made a 10" X 6/4 X 10' Teak threshold for a door with side lites in under 20 minutes using the planer, try pushing that monster through the TS alone!

[Tom Hummel]

Sue,
Do you have a thickness planer? As Peter suggested, the safest way to do this would be to use a sled for your planer. It could be as simple as a long narrow scrap attached to the bottom of your stock.


http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/tuma0650/Woodworking/ThresholdThroughPlanerDetail-1.jpghttp://sawmillcreek.org/%3Cimg%20src=%22http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/tuma0650/Woodworking/ThresholdThroughPlanerDetail-1.jpg%22%3E

[Kent Parker]

Sue,

A backer board as you suggested would provide more bearing on the table saw after the cut. This gives you a large surface contact on the fence and the table saw top (less chance of movement as the board passes through). I would screw your piece to it from the back side rather than relie on tape. The backer board should be of some height to get your hand further away from the blade but not so high as to be cumbersom.

Also, this cut does not have to be done all at once. Taking a couple of passes (smaller bites) would give you more control and the final cut could be smoother.

If you use a planer as suggested by others, you need to provide a means to prevent the piece from rocking sideways as it passes through the planer.

Cheers,

KP

[Richard Venturelli]

I don't understand the need to use a left-tilt saw. It seems to me you can make the cut with either a left-tilt saw or a right-tilt saw. You just need to make the cut as Jim describes: so that the offcut is not trapped against the fence.

There is no need. You can cut this using a right or left tilt. Just tilt the saw blade and place the side your not cutting against the fence. This is not rocket science! Just do what you always do, PAY ATTENTION!

I don't understand why some have to make this more difficult then it really is. I do it this way all the time and still have all my digits.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Before you drag your right tilt saw to the end of the driveway for the scrap dealer, here is how I would cut this threshold.

Greg

[Frank Drew]

Greg (and others),

OK, I see, moving the fence to the other side of the blade; I didn't consider that because my last saw's fence would only work on the right side of the blade. Instead of "left tilting, I should have said "Only do it with the blade tilting away from the fence", or, "Don't do this a manner liable to trap either the work or the offcut between the blade and the fence."

[Sue Wise]

Thanks for all of your suggestions. Actually, I do have a left tilt saw, but I did understand that if right-tilt, just move the fence to the other side.

I will either just go ahead with the TS and be careful or give the planer idea a go.

Thanks again,

-Sue

[Bruce Wrenn]

Thanks for all of your suggestions. Actually, I do have a left tilt saw, but I did understand that if right-tilt, just move the fence to the other side.

I will either just go ahead with the TS and be careful or give the planer idea a go.

Thanks again,

-SueSue, I would make my feather board higher, so it bears against the section in the middle that isn't being cut. I have made several of these over the years. Some on a left tilt saw, and some on a right tilt saw. I've owned both.

[Matt Ocel]

T.S.

Piece a cake.

I make thresholds on site for replacement doors all the time.