Latest garage sale finds

[Randy Klein]

I've been starting up the rust hunt lately (as they seem to call it). I think this would qualify as my first score.

- Big wooden jointer in rather good condition. My wife says she has dibs on that one for decoration...
- Wooden smoother - again for decoration
- Stanley 5-1/2 (definite user)
- Stanley block, but unsure of # (any hints?)
- Unidentified spokeshave (any hints?)
88549

- Huge corner and pigsticker mortise chisels and stanley socket. (I'm really proud of these.)
- A monsterish rasp, with a Delta marking. I couldn't pass it up even though I have no use for it.
- Some saws that are pretty straight and some are Disstons. Probably good for practice sharpening.
88550

- Auger bits and a small brace.
88551

- A monster anvil that I'm not sure I needed.
- Starrett inclinometer (?).
88552

So do you think I did good? I guess I have some cleaning in the near future for me.

[Jim Koepke]

ISo do you think I did good? I guess I have some cleaning in the near future for me.

That depends on how much you payed.

Every Jackson, Hamilton and Lincoln under $100, the better it is.

Well, not sure about that, the anvil could set you back a bit all by itself.

On the little block plane, pick it up with your right hand as if you were going to use it. Then look below your left thumb, there is often a number stamped there. Without seeing a picture from the side it is hard to tell if it is a 60-1/2 or another model.

jtk

[Bill Houghton]

Some random comments (not all I could make - long day, wife has cold, crashing early):

1. The Starrett tool is not an inclinometer, but a protractor head, designed to fit on a combination square rule, probably a 12" rule - see http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/PLH2.asp?NodeNum=21489&Mode=PLIST. Not all rules fit all heads - take it with you to check. It's not hard to find a decent rule at garage sales or flea markets, and protractor heads can be quite helpful in determining exact angles.

2. The block plane looks like a decent little tool - model number is less critical than function (as with almost everything there...). Clean it up, sharpen iron, go for it. A block plane is one of the must-have tools in the shop.

3. Don't say you don't need the rasp. Rasps are very useful tools. I can't tell from the photo if it's a half-round (one side curved), which is the most desirable. The big issue with old rasps is that the teeth get dull. There's a company, Boggs, that says it can sharpen such tools (http://www.boggstool.com/) - don't know what this would cost you or whether you'd find it worthwhile. Depends a lot on what work you're doing.

4. The brace is a children's brace, useful only if you need to drill a hole the size of the bit in the brace. Don't worry - at any flea market and almost any garage sale with a decent tool stash, you can pick up a brace for $1-5 (I would never pay over $1, myself, unless the brace was really lustworthy).

5. Nice spokeshave design. Myself, I don't like the shaves with adjusting nuts at the top - they get in the way. This one looks nice and compact. No idea who the maker is; maker name can usually be found on the cutting iron. A decent spokeshave is another "most fun you can have with clothes on" tool.

[Rick Whitehead]

Nice haul!
The Starrett item in the last picture is not an inclinometer, but a protractor head for a combination square.Very useful.
Rick W

[Randy Klein]

That depends on how much you payed.

Every Jackson, Hamilton and Lincoln under $100, the better it is.

Well, not sure about that, the anvil could set you back a bit all by itself.



I only paid $60 for the whole lot. The anvil was only $5 and my wife didn't know why I was getting it.

[Randy Klein]

Some random comments (not all I could make - long day, wife has cold, crashing early):

1. The Starrett tool is not an inclinometer, but a protractor head, designed to fit on a combination square rule, probably a 12" rule - see http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/PLH2.asp?NodeNum=21489&Mode=PLIST. Not all rules fit all heads - take it with you to check. It's not hard to find a decent rule at garage sales or flea markets, and protractor heads can be quite helpful in determining exact angles.

2. The block plane looks like a decent little tool - model number is less critical than function (as with almost everything there...). Clean it up, sharpen iron, go for it. A block plane is one of the must-have tools in the shop.

3. Don't say you don't need the rasp. Rasps are very useful tools. I can't tell from the photo if it's a half-round (one side curved), which is the most desirable. The big issue with old rasps is that the teeth get dull. There's a company, Boggs, that says it can sharpen such tools (http://www.boggstool.com/) - don't know what this would cost you or whether you'd find it worthwhile. Depends a lot on what work you're doing.

4. The brace is a children's brace, useful only if you need to drill a hole the size of the bit in the brace. Don't worry - at any flea market and almost any garage sale with a decent tool stash, you can pick up a brace for $1-5 (I would never pay over $1, myself, unless the brace was really lustworthy).

5. Nice spokeshave design. Myself, I don't like the shaves with adjusting nuts at the top - they get in the way. This one looks nice and compact. No idea who the maker is; maker name can usually be found on the cutting iron. A decent spokeshave is another "most fun you can have with clothes on" tool.

1. You guys are right about the starrett. I thought that at first, but couldn't see where the rule would slide in. But after looking at the link you provided, I went out and checked and sure enough, that's what it is.

2. I have 3 blocks already and agree with you on their handiness. I had just not seen this style before. It has Stanley in a circular pattern on the adjusting nut. Maybe I'll find a model # after clean up.

3. Yep, rasps are useful. I only have 1 other and really like it. But this thing is huge at least to me. I just measured it and it was 13" long on just the toothed portion.

4. The brace was definitely bought on its cuteness factor. I have a few others with larger sweeps but this would be good for my kids.

5. Yet another thing I agree with you on. I have 2 other shaves, but this was just neat looking.

Thanks for help clarifying everything. I'll post updated pics after cleanup.

[Jim Koepke]

For $5 I would buy the anvil too. Have been using an old chunk of RR track.
Saw a little anvil the other day with a badly messed up top. The guy wanted $65. I just walked away. My wife said I should have told him he was crazy.

jim

[Randy Klein]

So I cleaned up the chisels and block plane to see maker's marks.

The corner chisel is "Ohio Tool Co."

The mortise chisel reads Spear Jackson Sheffield. It also has an interesting feature shown in the pic. I've been reading "Classic Hand Tools" so I'm guessing this is a pic of a laminated iron. Is that right?
88656

The block plane still had no model# for it, but I got clearer pics of the maker's marks. Any clues? I also saw that the mouth had a large chip missing from it right behind the iron. I'm not sure how I missed it before.
88658
88659

Lastly, the smaller chisel just reads Stanley. How does this relate to the 750's?
88657

So I recognize these maker's names. Does anyone know if these are good finds?

I plan on rehabilitating all of these tools via Bob Smalser's tutorials. In fact, it's his tutorials and testimonies that got me going on this rust hunt to begin with, so thank you Bob.

[harry strasil]

LOL, the iron planes would be decorators here and the woodies users.

[James Mittlefehldt]

I have been going to auctions since the late sixties and have only seen maybe half a dozen anvils at the most. The most recent one I saw was about eight years ago and it went for in excess of $100, so based on my area you got a great deal there.

I have an anvil some ambitious soul made from a piece of railway iron, he flattend the top and made a horn in one end, not huge but for all I ever need one, it will do.

I asked my wife about the fact I see so few tools in garage sales in this area, and her response was that men seldom bother with helping set them up so very few tools get shown. Good haul over all.

[Randy Klein]

LOL, the iron planes would be decorators here and the woodies users.

Yeah, sometimes I don't get to make that call...

[Jim Koepke]

I asked my wife about the fact I see so few tools in garage sales in this area, and her response was that men seldom bother with helping set them up so very few tools get shown. Good haul over all.

Gee, to me that sounds like a reason for there to be more tools and really cheap.

Ducking under my desk,

jim

[Jack Vines]

Anvils are going for $2 a pound these days. That was the buy of the day.

thnx, jack vines

[harry strasil]

depends on whether it's a real anvil or a cast iron boat anchor.

[Randy Klein]

depends on whether it's a real anvil or a cast iron boat anchor.

Harry,

Here's a pic of the other side. Can you tell if it's a real anvil or anchor? Also, it weighs 84 lbs. Which is probably 4lbs of rust. I'll re-weigh it when I get all that off...
88830

[harry strasil]

Anvils with the raised logo on the side are usually Cast Iron Anvil some with a Steel Face, I will have to consult my Book Anvils in America to be sure of what it is.

[Jack Vines]

It's the real deal. Vulcan is one of the best. You prolly could sell it for $200 easily.

thnx;, jack vines

[Randy Klein]

It's the real deal. Vulcan is one of the best. You prolly could sell it for $200 easily.

thnx;, jack vines

That may be too tempting to keep. I'll have to clean it up and see how it looks underneath.

[Kevin Brenton]

Harry,

Here's a pic of the other side. Can you tell if it's a real anvil or anchor? Also, it weighs 84 lbs. Which is probably 4lbs of rust. I'll re-weigh it when I get all that off...
88830


The anvil is a steal ( no pun intended ) at $5.00 ,If you soak the rasp (minus the handle ) in cleaning vinegar for a few days it will remove the rust and sharpen it at the same time. It will come out black from the vinegar ,just scrub it with an old scrubbing brush and hot soapy water.Then give a spray of wd40 type stuff.I do this to my metal working files every couple of years to restore the cutting edges.
Cleaning vinegar is made from molasses BTW not grapes like normal vinegar.

Kev.

[harry strasil]

Vulcan anvils were cast iron with a steel face, made by the Illinois Iron and Bolt Company of Carpentersville, Illinois from about 1875 to 1969. Vulcan Anvils are no real prize, just most catalogues advertised them because they were much cheaper than good anvils. It would make a good starter anvil for a newbie hobbiest till he can find a good anvil, but if some one offers you $200 for it, take it and run before they find out what they have. It doesn't look like the edges of the face are all chipped up or broken so that is a plus for its value.

[Ray Gardiner]

Harry,

Here's a pic of the other side. Can you tell if it's a real anvil or anchor? Also, it weighs 84 lbs. Which is probably 4lbs of rust. I'll re-weigh it when I get all that off...
88830

Hi Randy,

If you hit it with a hammer and it "rings" it's a good one. If it just goes "thunk" it's probably cast.

[George Sanders]

Nice haul. Clean them up and use them all. Make something nice for your wife with the wooden planes and she will probably start bringing more of them home to you. Anvils are rarely seen at auctions around my area. When they do show up they go for at least a hundred dollars.

[harry strasil]

Old myths are hard to put down, its the rebound that makes an anvil good, not the ring. I had 6 anvils in my shop and none of them would ring worth a darn, an 87 lb Peter Wright, my grandfathers 115 lb PW, 131 lb Trenton, 151 lb HayBudden, 125 Blackjack (made for Keen Kutter by Haybudden), and a 350 lb Cast Steel no name. And I have a cast iron anvil given to me as a kid by a dr in my wood shop.

[Ray Gardiner]

Nice anvil collection you have there Harry, Here are a couple of links you
might be interested in. Discussing what to look for in an old anvil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3uzWOAaWDU
http://www.geocities.com/welshforge/theanvil.htm

My understanding is that cast anvils don't ring (and don't rebound much either) wheras a good anvil, properly mounted will ring.

I am building a forge, and looking for a good anvil. I understand the Russians are exporting cheap steel anvils ($US60), but don't know if I can get them in Australia.

[harry strasil]

Be prepared to finish the top of the russkie anvil, real rough machined, and to spend a goodly amount of time with a hand grinder making the horn some semblance of the horn on a good anvil, they will work for a starter anvil, but not the best. The anvil at the first of this thread will make a fine hobbiest anvil and will give good service, its just not worth $200.

A loudly ringing anvil is a blacksmiths nightmare, it will make you deaf, most smiths with a ringing anvil wrap chains around the waist, tie them down tightly, put magnets under the horn and heel and a host of other contrivences to quiet them down.

I only have 2 of my anvils left. sold the trenton, the haybudden and the big 350 I used for my walking plow sharpening anvil, gave the 87 lb PW to my grandson who is a promising young smith, his dad learned from me.

This is a picture of him a couple of years ago demonstrating making an "S"hook at a Blacksmith Hammer In in Oklahoma for the Adult Smiths in attendance. He got their attention quick. His Anvil is a 10 lb cast steel anvil I game him and the hammer is a 1 lb cross pein I made for him, he also has some tongs I made to size for him.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/shaneatwork1.jpg

This is the url of the Blacksmiths Association of Western Australia, you can find info here, http://wau.abana-chapter.com/

You might also contact Dale Russell, at chopperdale@hotkey.net.au, he is at Wesburn, Oz, he has also built his version of my little helve hammer. and has a smith shop behind his house.

[Ray Gardiner]

Thanks Harry, Great photo, nice to see the skills being passed down from generation to generation. I checked out those links, Western Australia is a bit far away for me (2000 miles). I found http://www.abavic.org.au they are only about 2 hours drive from here, however I would probably learn a lot from going to their meetings.

Blacksmithing and Woodworking, a perfect combination. They seem to go together naturally.