plane blade rehab suggestions

[Tim Reagan]

I bought a #7 Stanley off of ebay, but the blade has moderate pitting. I got it close to flat on the back, but under a magnifying glass, I still see min. pitting. At this point, am I better off getting a Hock replacement, because I'm gettting the blade thinner the more I work.

Also spent about 45 min. flattening the sole, but can still get a .005 feeler under one back edge, is that ok for woodwork? Thats a lot a iron to remove! I cant feel any rocking.

thanks,

[Mike Henderson]

You can purchase a new blade, of course, but an alternative is to put a microbevel on the back of the blade to get rid of the pits. You want your microbevel to be at a very small angle, no more than 5*, preferably less.

The reason is that the microbevel will change the effective blade angle. So if your plane has a 45* frog - which most of them are - when you put a 5* back bevel on the iron, you'll make it a 50* plane.

This is a common trick for old plane blades. But if you can only see the pitting under magnification, the blade may work fine as a jointer as is (with the pits). Try it before you do anything else.

Also, don't worry about .005 on a jointer plane.

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

I agree with Mike and have a few other thoughts.

Depending on what you want from your #7 buy a replacement blade from eBay or spend more on a Hock/LV/LN or other choice of iron.

Five thousands is not much for a joiner. Depending on where it is, it can have little to no effect. If it were immediately behind the mouth, then I might worry a little.

Have you figured a manufacture date for the plane?

jim

[Tim Reagan]

As to date, i don't know. i don't remember seeing #'s, just BAILEY 7. Where elso to look. The mouth area is fine, but there is a area about 4 in. on back right side only that will fit snug a .005. So it sounds like the pits I can see on the edge, aren't terribly important, because I will be cleaning it up with something else after.

great help, thanks.

[Tim Reagan]

how do I find the date for the #7 bailey?

[Tom Veatch]

how do I find the date for the #7 bailey?

I've found the "Stanley Bench Plane Dating Page (http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/index.html)" to be helpful.

[Jim Koepke]

how do I find the date for the #7 bailey?

The page Tom V. lists can help.

Also, pictures help.

There are a few pages used for plane identification and dating. Johnny Kleso has a good one. My understanding is that it is being worked on to clear up some of the areas.

There are a few features that can be used such as the design of the frog and the frog seating area.

The size of the adjuster was changed around 1920, but sometimes people changed these out.

The lateral lever sometimes has patent dates.

The area around the knob and if it has a ring around its base can help to determine if it was made before or after 1929.

If the blade is the original, that can be a help. The Stanley logo changed many times over the years.

Rexmill.com will take you to Johnny's web site.

Here is the "Mega Chart" of Stanley plane dating:

http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/stanleyplane/pftsynch.htm

have fun,

jim

[Tim Reagan]

wow, thanks. I'll bring my plane to the computer later and dig in. maybe post some pics.

[Tim Reagan]

I finally got some pics. Appreciate suggestions on age.

[Johnny Kleso]

You can buy a New Stanley Blade for $15.50
http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/12-315-1-02-0c-02.html

You can also get a new Cap Iron and Blade for $17.50 well worth the extra $2.00


You can also add a back bevel like Mike said by placing a hack saw blade or thin strip of something on the side of the stone and under the blade to hone a small angle on the very edge of the blade..

Never do this on a chisel though as it much be totally flat unlike a plane blade..

PS:
Something like a Hack Saw blade with out teeth :)
I was just thinking the teeth would make the blade not slide so well and scratch it up as well ...

[Jim Koepke]

The shape of the frog on yours started around 1933.

Without seeing the edges at the heel and toe it is hard to determine much more.

jim

[Tim Reagan]

Here's a few more pics. From Jim's previous link, I've narrowed it down to an 8, 9, or 15. The lateral adjustment lever has no #'s, just "stanley". I guess it really doesn't matter. I will try it with the pitted blade first, as I should always be following with a jack or smoother. I just got a new LV LA Jack to follow the 7!
thanks