Is there an arbor or trunion adjustment for this?

[Randal Cobb]

Hello all... I'm just really starting to get familiar with my new cabinet saw (just got it Saturday) and while adjusting it, I notice that the bracket that holds the splitter/blade guard is out of alignment with the arbor flange and according to the manual, it's supposed to be flush with the face of the arbor flange. I've loosened both of the adjustment nuts and slid the bracket as far back (to the left) as it will go, but it's still about 1/8" above or forward to the face of the arbor flange. Is there a typically a trunion adjustment that allows me to move the arbor forward by 1/8" on most cabinet saws so that it can become flush with the splitter bracket or do I have a bigger problem?
If it helps, the saw is a Steel City 35-640 w/ titanium top.

Thanks in advance!

[John Thompson]

Call Steel City toll-free @ 1-877-924-8665 and ask for tech.. You will likely get Jim Box...

Regards...

Sarge..

[Randal Cobb]

Thanks, I did just that and it's 877-724-8665, not 877-924-8665... He suggested two possible fixes an one I'm not entirely sure about...
First suggestion was to remove the top and move the entire cross-member forward. He said this is the "correct" method to do it, but it's the hardest.
The other suggestion was to remove the splitter bracket entirely and use a round file to file out enough of the bolt-holes in the bracket so it sits flush. This is the one I'm afraid of. It's much easier to do, but, wouldn't it weaken the bracket?

Thanks again for the help!


Call Steel City toll-free @ 1-877-924-8665 and ask for tech.. You will likely get Jim Box...

Regards...

Sarge..

[John Thompson]

If the file out area around the hole is sufficient (meaning more than say 3/16") I wouldn't be concerned at all. And I suspect it would (?) so... that would be a 10-74 or Negative in laymens terms. :)

If you do.. give tech (sorry about the typo as I was in a hurry to get to the shop this morning) another call. If you didn't speak it Jim Box... ask for him and explain what you were told. Tell him Sarge (he'll know who Sarge is) sent you and ask him to note the suggested modification on your file record for future warranty issues. You've got 5 Years to find out. ;)

Or since you are in Canton, Ga. and I'm in L'ville.... I trade you even for a Uni-saw and you won't have to deal with it at all. I pick-up and deliver BTW. :D:D

Regards...

Sarge..

[Randal Cobb]

10-54, 10-74, both are the same in my book... I used to be a paramedic down in the battle-zone of Ft. Lauderdale, FL. ;)

I might need to pass on that offer... Nothing personal, just I haven't even cut a single piece of wood on it yet. If I spend more than an hour on it, I may reconsider, though. ;) It just looks really nice sitting next to that Steel City bandsaw with the granite top. Almost like they were made to go together. :rolleyes:

When I get home tonight (at work at the moment - ick), I'll take a look at how much material is still around the splitter bracket bolt holes. IIRC, there should be enough to remove 1/8" and still be safe. I seem to remember the whole flange that bolts to the trunion assembly was a flat piece, so, no extra reinforcement around the holes.

If it's not flat and there is not enough material to file out, I'll indeed give them a call back and mention your handle. Thanks again!

[Randal Cobb]

ok, got it done. I pulled the splitter bracket out and the flange that gets bolted to the trunion is approx 5/8" thick, so plenty of material to file out. Only, filing seemed so.... manual.... so, I opted for the Dremel w/ a tungsten carbide cutting bit. I elongated the slots 1/8" and now the splitter sits squarely in the middle of the blade kerf.

Looks like I can start turning fine wood into marvelous firewood again.

Thanks for the suggestions/help.

[John Thompson]

I thought it would be a easy fix, Randall. I probably don't have one machine I have accumulated in 36 years that doesn't have a modification in some manner. I have the SC 18" BS and the first thing I did was cut the blade shield off just above the bearings so I could see the gullets. You have to do basically the same thing with a Mini-Max as I had a deposit on one before going SC.

Great saw so have fun... we poured water on the Titanium at the Atlanta WW Show two springs ago about 10 AM one morning. Let it sit till 4 PM and no rust. That will come in handy with our summer humidity.

Enjoy...

Sarge..

[Randal Cobb]

It's good to know about the rust issue. I sweat when I brush my teeth, so, I was worried that my the sweat drops were going to cause me to have to work more on keeping the tops of my tools rust-free.
And since my shop is in my un-air-conditioned garage, I expect much MORE sweat in the months to come. I do keep a good layer of wax on the surfaces, but, I know I'll have to wax them more often than others. It's good to know the titanium top will be resistant somewhat to it. After using the granite top on the bandsaw, I'm almost wishing I had saved up a bit more and gotten the granite top saw instead. I KNOW that one wouldn't rust. ;)

[John Thompson]

I have the black granite fence on my 8" SC jointer. I purchased the jointer with the cast iron fence when SC introduced their new line of machines. After they introduced the granite at the big Las Vegas WW Show Scott Box (president of SC Toolworks) showed up at my shop door and ask me to field test one of the three proto-types they had at that moment. Of course I agreed as he gave me the granite fence to keep.

So.. you are most definitely correct about the rust on an almost dead flat fence that has no chance of stress crack down the road either. I do keep a coat of was on my original cast iron fence standing in a corner. Just habit I suppose.

BTW.. I'm not sure if you are from the area originally... but I Boe-shield my cast iron and then add a coat of Renaissance or Johnson's wax. But.. I am in the shop everyday and make a walk-through of all machines (front and rear shop) just to be on the safe side. No humidity now with this beautiful weather we're having.. but in a month or so WW with cast iron beware. ;)

Go make something to get your wife off your back... would ya? :D

Regards from L'ville down in Gwinnett....

Sarge..

[Randal Cobb]

I've been around metro Atlanta since '92... moved up from Florida when the entire state adopted the rule of 97 (97 degrees, 97% of the year, at 97% humidity, average age of drivers on the road = 97...) you get the picture...

I've only used wax in the past and have been lucky not to get much rust. Does the Boe-shield help? Is it something I can apply now that I've waxed them all, or is it too late now?

Yeah, I need to go build her something. She's been fussing at me to make a new dresser for the girls room... I just can't seem to find anyone local that sells QSWO in small quantity (80bf) for a reasonable price. Woodfinder says to call C.A.G. Lumber up in Gainesville, but I can never seem to catch him when he's at his shop.

[John Thompson]

Frank that works at Delta got a small quantity at Peach State up in Kennesaw a few days ago I believe. You might try the guy in Gaineville as I am aware of him.. but have never inquired.

The conclussion Frank and I came to was that it is best to be ready to purchase and call that day for a pricing. What is happening is there is no monthly price sheet as there was. Because of suppliers cost and the cost of transportation changing daily with gas increases... it has become a day to day thing.

An example was Frank called Peach State on FAS walnut one day and it was $5.85. He called Suwanee Lumber a day latter (my supplier since 1978) and it was $6.05. He is in Douglasville and Suwanee is farther for him. He just showed up 3 days latter after the $5.85 quote and it had risen to $9.02 in that span.

So.. comparative shopping on a day to day basis is beginning to make sense as I would have never bothered 6-8 months ago and before then.

Good luck...

Sarge...