How do I choose a stationary compressor?

[Brian Elfert]

I'm looking to buy a stationary air compressor for my shop to do various things including running air tools to do body work on a vehicle.

Anything special I should look for in a compressor? I'm thinking one of the 3 HP 60 gallon compressors like the Husky at Home Depot for $399. I believe the Husky is made by Campbell-Hausfield. It does have a cast iron compressor unlike some of the others with aluminum. I believe Sanborn also makes a unit for the same price, but not sure if compressor is cast iron or aluminum.

There is a local company that makes really nice compressors, but they charge over $500 for basically the same as the Husky or Sanbirn unit.

I've looked on Craigslist, but a lot of folks think their compressors are made of gold. Older units that are don't look the best are same price as new. There is one listed now made by a local company for $500 that I am considering. It is a $1200 compressor new and is big enough to run any air tool. Not sure if I want to spend the additional $100 over new or not.

[Jim Becker]

Brian, the local concern or a top line manufacturer's product might look like the Husky, etc., at the 'borg, but they are much better products and worth the extra cost. The better compressors are also easier to repair in the future because the don't cut corners on the plumbing, etc. (Ask Dennis Peacock about his experience with a 'borg compressor...or see if you can find it using the advanced search here at SMC) This is one of the reasons I went with an IR 60 gallon 3hp unit for my own shop. I caught a sale at Tractor Supply for about $500 and couldn't be happier. Note I'm not saying that the Husky, etc., are "bad" machines...just that they are not built to the same quality as those from companies specializing in the trade rather than the mass market.

Oh, and some of those older compressors, despite looking yucky, are darn good machines with high-quality manufacturing. 'Requires some homework, but don't rule them out.

[Randal Stevenson]

First gather all your current tools specs!
Then gather the tool specs of your planned future tools.
Find out the MAXIMUM CFM that they require (this will most likely be a sander, or grinder/body shaping tool, not a impact)
Buy a compressor that will exceed that! Cast iron is good, larger tank then expecting, is good (oversize your airlines, and they act as a extra tank, aka 3/4 instead of 1/2), oil lubed is a REQUIREMENT on one of this size. (prolong it by proper maintainence, like a car).
Twin cylinder is better, but I worked in a garage where we did have/use a single cylinder (effectively homeowner) style. While there are a lot of homeowner ones, there aren't that many run for 40 year style anymore (can be found online and at a few commercial places).


EDIT, Not twin cylinder, TWO STAGE (brain fart). We used a single stage one after a failure of the 40 year old two stage one, since the place had been remodeled, and there was no physical way to get the new two stage (of the same size), in there.

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm by no means a compressor expert but here's my thoughts:

I currently have a 25 gal. oil-less compressor and a 6-gal. pancake compressor. I use the smaller one probably 95% of the time for my pin/finish/brad/crown stapler-nailers. For automotive and spray gun I use the larger one.

I'm currently looking for a larger compressor too for two reasons: 1) the oil-less compressors are so LOUD! 2) my larger compressor has a 90psi cfm rating of 5.7 and can barely keep up with my HVLP gun.

The Husky you mentioned doesn't have a great rating as far as cfm. I also have been looking at CL and noticed many want new or better prices for their used equipment. Two compressors that caught my eye were at Lowe's. They have a Campbell-Hausfeld 60 gal and 80 gal.. The 60 has a rating of around 11 cfm at 90 but the 80 has around 16. The 80 was $650. I read somewhere that you should look for a compressor with a cast iron pump - not aluminum with CI sleeves. One thing to remember is that these larger compressors require 220V power.

[Brian Elfert]

I am absolutely going with an oiled compressor. I want one with a motor and belt. There are a few oiled ones that are direct drive.

The C-Aire compressor for $500 is probably one of the best deals I will ever find. It is true 5 HP with a two stage compressor. It also does over 20 SCFM at 90 PSI. C-Aire is a local manufacturer that make some real nice, but expensive compressors.

[Steven Wilson]

Brian, the C-Aire is fine and that's a decent compressor especially at that price point. You may want to consider the next one up with a larger tank as you mention the use use of autobody tools.

[JayStPeter]

I have the 60 gal/3HP CH compressor. It hits it's limit pretty often with auto tools. 2-stage is definitely the way to go.

[Brad Shipton]

Only thing I will add is that you will need between 10 - 20cfm to run many autobody tools continuously. They are much worse than woodworking tools since most are open ports and you need to run non-stop. Having tried running one on less than required I can say it is a royal pain to do so.

Brad

[Steve Leverich]

I recently replaced a dead 2 horse (real, not borg numbers) Cambell Hausfield which could NOT begin to keep up with automotive air tools, with a Dev-Air (DeVilbiss industrial series) 5 horse Baldor motor, 80 gallon tank - cost $1700 but would eat any borg compressor for breakfast - 22 CFM @ 175 PSI CONTINUOUS duty (and that means 24/7) -

Lotta money, but this beast runs so quiet you can stand next to it and carry on a normal conversation and I NEVER have to wait for it to catch up whether using an inline sander, air grinder, or anything else.

Bottom line - they'll be "patting me in the face with a shovel" before I need another - works for me... Steve

[Brian Elfert]

I went and looked at an older compressor a machinist had built from a tank, motor, and compressor. The motor was an OLD 1 HP motor about the size of a 3 HP or even a 5 HP motor today.

But, the big thing about about this compressor is how quiet it is. It was almost silent and quieter than other oil lubed compressors. I didn't buy it because the compressor was way too small for me. It took at least five minutes to pump the tank to 40 PSI.

(I was looking at smaller portable oil lubed compressors to run a few small air tools before I decided to take the leap to a big stationary compressor. Seeing the 5HP 2 stage compressor for $500 pushed me to go stationary.)

[Joe Jensen]

Brian, I have used a Speedair true 3HP cast iron single stage for 18 years. It will last a long time, but it's too small for the HVLP conversion gun I bought.

I've been wanting a Quincy Industrial compresser for 20 years. They are very heavy duty pressure lubricated compressors run very low RPM so they are very quiet and last forever. Quincy now makes a cheaper compressor series too. The pump on mine is a Quincy model 325 which is a 2 stage that takes a 3 or 5HP motor. With a 3HP motor it only runs at 400RPM.

The problem is that new they are prohibitively expensive, over $3500 new. I've been watching Craig's list and I was finally able to find a single phase one on a smaller (60gal) tank. The one I bought came out of a Dentist office and other then being stored outside (not hooked up) for the past 5 years, it is like new. The motor needed a new start capacitor, and I'm repainting it (vanity) but I will end up with less than $400 in it.

Moral - look at used...joe

[Jim Thiel]

The C-Aire compressor for $500 is probably one of the best deals I will ever find. It is true 5 HP with a two stage compressor.

Should you decide that you don't want that deal, LMK. I'll come by and kick you in the shins until you change your mind.

Seriously, a 5hp two stage for five bills? You don't have it yet?

Jim

[Brian Elfert]

Brian, the C-Aire is fine and that's a decent compressor especially at that price point. You may want to consider the next one up with a larger tank as you mention the use use of autobody tools.

The compressor I am looking at is used. The step up from an 80 to a 120 gallon tank would be extremely expensive. Only C-Aire's most expensive line has a 120 gallon tank available and finding one used is not likely.

[Brian Elfert]

Should you decide that you don't want that deal, LMK. I'll come by and kick you in the shins until you change your mind.

Seriously, a 5hp two stage for five bills? You don't have it yet?


I've exchanged emails with the guy and will call the guy shortly.

[Johnny Fischer]

Brian,
Jim is giving you good advice.
I too purchased me IR compressor from Tractor Supply at a very attractable price, like $300 cheaper than anywhere else I could find.
1st of all if your going to be doing auto body repairs I assume you will be painting as well.
From experience you had better get an 80 gal. compressor w/ a 7.5 HP motor, min.
It takes ALOT of air (CFM) to keep a paint gun going continuously for an hour or so.
A 60 gal. compressor won't handle what your want to do.

[Ben Cadotte]

I have had very good luck with my 3.5 hp (actual) 45 gallon Kobalt. Longest waranty of any large department / borg store. It has a respectiable CFM capacity, little higher than even some 60 gallon units. It will run down with an air sander held wide open though. But I don't use it all the time so I felt the 45 gallon tank was a good size for me. Much quieter than my Craftsman 25 gallon noise maker. Not silent but wont scare you when the shop is quiet and all of a sudden it kicks on.

[Joe Jensen]

In my quest for my latest compressor, I read a ton on the subject. I think there are some myths in this thread.
1) 2 stage is necessary for PSI over 100-120. If you only need less than 100 PSI, a similar price point 2 cylinder 1 stage will make more air per HP than a 2 stage. For example, Quincy makes a 2 stage model 325 that takes 3-5HP. Their comparable 1 stage is a model 240. It also takes 3-5HP, and it makes more air at 100PSI than the 325 with the same HP.
2) Tank size is not the critical factor. In any high volume application the tank will empty very quickly. This is easy to prove to yourself. Fill your tank and then see how quickly the pressure drops below your working pressure. I read that you want at least 1 gallon of tank for every CFM the compressor produces. Larger tanks let the compressor cycle less often but as you approach the max CFM the pump can produce, tank size becomes irrelevent.

Here is a good link to truth in compressors.
http://www.truetex.com/aircompressors.htm
I like the rules of thumb listed here from the link.

Rules of thumb:
A good compressor, per true HP, will deliver about 4 true CFM at 100 psig.
The tank should be sized to be at least 1 gallon of volume per CFM of the compressor.
Uncooled compressed air is hot, as much as 250 to 350 deg F!
Many tools require more CFM at 90 psi than what is physically possible to get from the power available through a 120 VAC outlet. If you don't observe this physical reality, then either your tool won't run right, or you won't be able to run it at a decent duty cycle.
Beware also, that the CFM figure given as the required air power on many tools (e.g., air chisels/hammers, sandblasters) is for an absurdly low duty cycle. You just can't run these constantly on anything but a monster compressor, but the manufacturer still wants you to believe you can, so you will buy the tool.

[Brian Elfert]

Dang it! The guy sold the compressor literally 10 to 15 minutes before I would have been there. I was on the road over to his house when he called to say it was sold. He did tell me when I called that someone else was also on the way over. I should have called right away Sunday evening. Oh well, at least I wasn't too far from home.

Maybe the malfunctioning traffic light and the accident on the freeway were omens that I shouldn't buy a compressor right now. I probably spent 15 minutes or more sitting in traffic.

I should probably just buy a compressor at Home Depot for $400 as I have a need for a compressor in the next week or two. I could probably search Craig's List until next fall and never find another deal as good as the one I missed. With my luck all I would see on CL is gold plated compressors or ones that are rusty and worn out.

[Brian Elfert]

Yes, I realize any decent compressor will require a 220 volt circuit. I can fairly easily run one out to the garage where my shop is for now.

[Jacob Reverb]

I recently bought an Eagle 60-gallon 150-psi-max compressor that puts out a whopping 18.5 CFM at 100 psi (three-cylinder compressor). It came with a 5hp continuous-duty motor. I've been real happy with it so far.

[Randal Stevenson]

In my quest for my latest compressor, I read a ton on the subject. I think there are some myths in this thread.
1) 2 stage is necessary for PSI over 100-120. If you only need less than 100 PSI, a similar price point 2 cylinder 1 stage will make more air per HP than a 2 stage. For example, Quincy makes a 2 stage model 325 that takes 3-5HP. Their comparable 1 stage is a model 240. It also takes 3-5HP, and it makes more air at 100PSI than the 325 with the same HP.
2) Tank size is not the critical factor. In any high volume application the tank will empty very quickly. This is easy to prove to yourself. Fill your tank and then see how quickly the pressure drops below your working pressure. I read that you want at least 1 gallon of tank for every CFM the compressor produces. Larger tanks let the compressor cycle less often but as you approach the max CFM the pump can produce, tank size becomes irrelevent.

Here is a good link to truth in compressors.
http://www.truetex.com/aircompressors.htm
I like the rules of thumb listed here from the link.

Rules of thumb:
A good compressor, per true HP, will deliver about 4 true CFM at 100 psig.
The tank should be sized to be at least 1 gallon of volume per CFM of the compressor.
Uncooled compressed air is hot, as much as 250 to 350 deg F!
Many tools require more CFM at 90 psi than what is physically possible to get from the power available through a 120 VAC outlet. If you don't observe this physical reality, then either your tool won't run right, or you won't be able to run it at a decent duty cycle.
Beware also, that the CFM figure given as the required air power on many tools (e.g., air chisels/hammers, sandblasters) is for an absurdly low duty cycle. You just can't run these constantly on anything but a monster compressor, but the manufacturer still wants you to believe you can, so you will buy the tool.


Only thing I will add is that you will need between 10 - 20cfm to run many autobody tools continuously. They are much worse than woodworking tools since most are open ports and you need to run non-stop. Having tried running one on less than required I can say it is a royal pain to do so.

Brad


Brian, I have used a Speedair true 3HP cast iron single stage for 18 years. It will last a long time, but it's too small for the HVLP conversion gun I bought.

I've been wanting a Quincy Industrial compresser for 20 years. They are very heavy duty pressure lubricated compressors run very low RPM so they are very quiet and last forever. Quincy now makes a cheaper compressor series too. The pump on mine is a Quincy model 325 which is a 2 stage that takes a 3 or 5HP motor. With a 3HP motor it only runs at 400RPM.

The problem is that new they are prohibitively expensive, over $3500 new. I've been watching Craig's list and I was finally able to find a single phase one on a smaller (60gal) tank. The one I bought came out of a Dentist office and other then being stored outside (not hooked up) for the past 5 years, it is like new. The motor needed a new start capacitor, and I'm repainting it (vanity) but I will end up with less than $400 in it.

Moral - look at used...joe


Your gonna have to look at your use. I know too many hot rod guys who buy all the tools, build the car, then the tools set (expensive, not good on some stuff, and one use specialty tools). I stick by my look at your specs, then go larger (its not like we have never wanted a new/more power tool, right?;)) Commercial shops (autobody, dealerships, etc), are MUCH more apt to run a rotory screw type compressor (REQUIRES THREE PHASE), if it weren't for that, I would have bought the one I found a few years back for $1000. More air supplied then a homeowner SHOULD ever need.

[Joe Jensen]

Your gonna have to look at your use. I know too many hot rod guys who buy all the tools, build the car, then the tools set (expensive, not good on some stuff, and one use specialty tools). I stick by my look at your specs, then go larger (its not like we have never wanted a new/more power tool, right?;)) Commercial shops (autobody, dealerships, etc), are MUCH more apt to run a rotory screw type compressor (REQUIRES THREE PHASE), if it weren't for that, I would have bought the one I found a few years back for $1000. More air supplied then a homeowner SHOULD ever need.

I agree completely with your logic ;) but unfortunately, or maybe fortunately for my wife, I'm space limited to most of a 3 car garage. If not, I'd have a 37" wide belt, a CNC, a large slider, etc etc.:D:D:D I keep looking for a 5HP screw compressor with a 60 gal tank, but short of a $5K new unit, I haven't found one. If space and AMPs were not a problem, I'd have a $1000 10HP screw compressor. They are on EBAY and Craig's list all the time..joe

[Josiah Bartlett]

Look for a compressor with a 1725 rpm motor instead of a 3600 rpm one. That will tell you that it runs quieter, has bigger pistons for the given CFM rating, and is likely bulletproof.

I run a horizontal 2 cylinder single stage Quincy I got of Craigs' for $250. It has full oil pressure lube like a car engine (even has an oil pressure gauge), a nice 4 pole (1725 rpm) Baldor motor, and it puts out 8 cfm at 100psi. The best thing about it is that it is really quiet. I can carry on a normal conversation right next to it while its running. Unless the tank rusts out I think I'm set for life.

[Joe Jensen]

Look for a compressor with a 1725 rpm motor instead of a 3600 rpm one. That will tell you that it runs quieter, has bigger pistons for the given CFM rating, and is likely bulletproof.

I run a horizontal 2 cylinder single stage Quincy I got of Craigs' for $250. It has full oil pressure lube like a car engine (even has an oil pressure gauge), a nice 4 pole (1725 rpm) Baldor motor, and it puts out 8 cfm at 100psi. The best thing about it is that it is really quiet. I can carry on a normal conversation right next to it while its running. Unless the tank rusts out I think I'm set for life.

Killer stuff, sounds just like the one I found on Craig's list. Quincy #325 compressor, 6o gal horizontal tank, and a 3HP motor. I don't need 175 psi so I'm considering lowering the pressure switch to say a max of 120 psi to keep the air cooler as it compresses. You have one up on me as mine does not have a Baldor motor...joe

[Tom Veatch]

Brian, you gotten a lot of good advice in this thread. To sum up and add my thoughts on the matter:


Look to your tools. Which tool, currently owned or potential acquisition, has the highest air consumption. Assuming a single user environment, that is the absolute minimum CFM output compressor you should consider and going higher by 20-25 percent or more is good.
What is the maximum pressure you must have available. Unless it's greater than 120-130 PSI, a single stage compressor is sufficient. Greater than that, you should strongly consider a 2 stage unit.
A secondary pressure consideration is that higher pressure (within reason) is good since it effectively multiplies the capacity or your tank.
Larger tank size is good, but is a secondary consideration to the CFM output of the compressor. A large tank (or a smaller tank at higher pressure) serves two purposes. First, it bridges the gap when usage *temporarily and monentarily* outstrips supply. Second it reduces wear and tear on the compressor motor because it reduces the number and spreads out the timing of the start/stop cycles. Frequent motor starts are much harder on the motor than continuous running.Remember CFM is king!!! If economic conditions demand it, sacrifice all else before you give up any CFM.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

How do I choose a stationary compressor?
Look at the Ingersoll Rand line.
Then compare apples to apples with everyone else.

(IMHO - only) there's IR, and there's everyone else.

A stationary compressor is a significant investment in money as well as time and effort to buy, transport and install. You only want to do it once - is what I'm getting at.


I don't need 175 psi so I'm considering lowering the pressure switch to say a max of 120 psi to keep the air cooler as it compresses.
175 psi in a 60 gal tank will deliver roughly as much air as 120 psi in an 80 gal tank.
More psi "squeezed" into a smaller tank roughly equates to having a larger storage capacity, with a smaller footprint.
Don't concern yourself with trying to "false economize" - a quality pump can handle any slight increase (if there even is any) in temperature with ease.

[Rob Will]

Lots of good advice here.
Woodworking tools are not a big deal but if you start doing auto body work you will want at least a 5 hp compressor.

I would not consider those light duty compressors from the BORG.

My machine shop has a 3hp Westinghouse industrial compressor that was built in 1958 !!.......I bought it used for $300......and it is still going strong.

If there is any way you can, look for a higher quality compressor. Tractor Supply sells Ingersol Rand and Rural King sells Quincy. In my wood shop, I have a Curtis.

Rob

[JayStPeter]

It takes ALOT of air (CFM) to keep a paint gun going continuously for an hour or so.
A 60 gal. compressor won't handle what your want to do.

Paint guns are easy compared to air sanders, sandblasters, and heck even air ratchets and impact guns. I use an automotive HVLP spray gun with a different needle to spray WW finishes and have never had to wait for the compressor. Every so often it kicks in and everything keeps going. There is plenty of air at the <30psi the gun runs at. High quality guns with lower air usage are easy to find. However, about 1 min. with a sandblaster and I have to wait another couple for the tank to refill. No such thing as a low air use sandblaster. Blast off a few stubborn exhaust bolts with an impact gun and I have to bleed off some air to force a refill so I have enough pressure to blast off another few.
For the amount of stuff I do, my cheap 60 gal is OK. But, if I had a big car resto project going I'd want something bigger. I consider my 60 gal merely adequate for maintaining my 18 year old track car but fantastic for WWing (including spraying).

[Dan Lautner]

"The problem is that new they are prohibitively expensive, over $3500 new"


Im from the philosophy that if it is only 1% of your income go for it.

Dan

[Jude Tuliszewski]

I went with an Eaton comp. 7.5 hp with 33 amps running, and the 80 gal. tank. Search compressors to find my thread on it. I have been using it to sand blast my house, and it puts out plenty of air. It was competitively priced with the other pro style comps. What sold me on the Easton was the weight (witch means cast iron everything) and it has a continuous run feature that keeps the motor from cycling on and off during high air usage. I have had it for about 6 months and it has been a solid performer. I could have bought a less expensive comp. and gotten by, but I knew if I did I would probably regret it later. I know it is tempting to go the economy rout but after having done that a couple of times and not been happy with the outcome, the old saying holds true “ buy quality cry once buy cheap and cry all the time”.


If you do look for my thread search for Eaton compressor to find it faster than just searching compressor.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I found a IR 80 gal two years old in new condition for 600.00......Good deal ?:confused:

[Brian Elfert]

I think the C-Aire compressors are every bit as good as IR, but just as expensive as IR when new. The C-Aire compressors are popular around here mostly because they are made right here at a local operation. The compressor I treid to buy last night was a C-Aire.

I'm going to watch CL for another deal on a large compressor.

[Johnny Fischer]

Paint guns are easy compared to air sanders, sandblasters, and heck even air ratchets and impact guns. I use an automotive HVLP spray gun with a different needle to spray WW finishes and have never had to wait for the compressor. Every so often it kicks in and everything keeps going. There is plenty of air at the <30psi the gun runs at. High quality guns with lower air usage are easy to find. However, about 1 min. with a sandblaster and I have to wait another couple for the tank to refill. No such thing as a low air use sandblaster. Blast off a few stubborn exhaust bolts with an impact gun and I have to bleed off some air to force a refill so I have enough pressure to blast off another few.
For the amount of stuff I do, my cheap 60 gal is OK. But, if I had a big car resto project going I'd want something bigger. I consider my 60 gal merely adequate for maintaining my 18 year old track car but fantastic for WWing (including spraying).


Your absolutely correct about HVLP spray guns, but, regular siphon feed spray guns suck up alot of continuous air & I didn't think he wanted to spend $350 plus on a professional HVLP gun.
If he wasn't doing autobody & painting of this nature I would 100% agree a smaller compressor would serve all his needs.
Autobody tools alone require a high CFM consumption.

[Joe Jensen]

Hello,

Look at the Ingersoll Rand line.
Then compare apples to apples with everyone else.

(IMHO - only) there's IR, and there's everyone else.

A stationary compressor is a significant investment in money as well as time and effort to buy, transport and install. You only want to do it once - is what I'm getting at.


175 psi in a 60 gal tank will deliver roughly as much air as 120 psi in an 80 gal tank.
More psi "squeezed" into a smaller tank roughly equates to having a larger storage capacity, with a smaller footprint.
Don't concern yourself with trying to "false economize" - a quality pump can handle any slight increase (if there even is any) in temperature with ease.

I'm not thinking of the pump life. My the pump alone weights over 250lbs and has a pressurized oil system like a car. I am concerned about the temp of the air. I live in AZ, and if it's over 90F which it is most days, I could easily see air over 120, and maybe 150 coming out when I spray. Only time will tell. I tore the compressor down a little to paint it and to put in new relief valves, etc. Once it's up I'll do some testing. I've also considered lower the pressure to 120, and then putting on a larger pulley on the motor to increase the RPM. It's currently set up to run 500 RPM. This pump is intended to run at 900 RPM with a 5HP motor. If I lower the pressure and increase the RPM I think I can get more CFM at 100psi.

On tank size, consider this. One there are 7.48 gallons in one cubic foot. So, divide an 80 gallon tank by 7.48 and your 80 gallon tank holds just over 10 cubic feet. Going from 60 gallons to 80 gallons is a 20 gallon difference which when divided by 7.48 gives you 2.67 more cubic feet of storage. That's a whopping 10 seconds for a Dynabrade sander :mad:

[Bob Slater]

I bought a Shulz compressor directly from Shulz of America. It seems extremely well made and finished. It was a closeout model. MAde in Brazil with a completely rebuildable compressor. 17.5 cfm, 80 gallon tank, 5 hp 220v. It was $900 and is very quiet.

[Brian Elfert]

I'm getting really frustrated now!! I've tried to buy two different compressors from Craigs List postings and someone else beat me to them twice now.

I was actually on the road to the seller's location in both cases, but someone else made it there before I did. In one case someone paid the guy via Paypal without even seeing the compressor. Both sellers at least called me to tell me it sold so I could turn around. (I understand the first person with the cash gets it. Too many buyers call and never come.)

At least I've only wasted $10 or so in gas since I get high MPG in my car. I'm about to just give up on a compressor since anything on CL that isn't beat up or way over priced sells nearly instantly. I really can't afford $900 to $1200 for a new one.

(I don't understand some seller's pricing. One wants $450 for a compressor that sells new for $389.99 at Menards. He was ripped off if he paid $600 as he claims.)

[Randal Stevenson]

(I don't understand some seller's pricing. One wants $450 for a compressor that sells new for $389.99 at Menards. He was ripped off if he paid $600 as he claims.)

CL and Ebay are kinda the Wild wild west. Buyer beware. You have people who are (insert opinion or medical condition) and pay too much to begin with, then you have the people out to make a quick buck and looking for any sucker they can find.

[JayStPeter]

Brian,
I went through the same thing. I eventually really needed it and just bought a CH at Lowes when they had a sale and I had a 10% off coupon. I got the compressor for around $350 (3 years ago or so). I don't regret buying the compressor and have enjoyed having it. The purpose of my posts was to give some realistic expectation of how it will perform. I wouldn't want to work on my car without it. Even waiting a few minutes before blasting exhaust bolts off is better than having to saw them off.

[Brian Elfert]

I guess I'm just going to have to keep looking for the right compressor for me. It sucks because I have some work to do that needs a compressor.

I just can't see paying $900 to $1250 for a new compressor when I might find a nice used one for quite a bit less. A 10% coupon on Home Depot or Lowes would help if I find something big enough there and can't get a used one.