Making a raised panel question

[Craig D Peltier]

When making raised panels. Does the stock thickness have to be thicker than 3/4 for any reason.
Am I right if by saying this:
1) Using a back cutter raised panel bit it will allow the panel to be flush with the face.
2) Using a raised panel bit with no back cutter the panel will be raised 1/4 of an inch over door frame.

I plan on using this bit for the frame of the doors.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=01010

it comes in this kit

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=04001

[Matt Ocel]

You are correct Sir!

And

No, the stock thicknes does not need to be greater than 3/4", But it may depend on how and what you cut your raised panels with. I can't tell for sure with that set that you show from sommerfeld.

[Craig D Peltier]

You are correct Sir!

And

No, the stock thicknes does not need to be greater than 3/4", But it may depend on how and what you cut your raised panels with. I can't tell for sure with that set that you show from sommerfeld.

Im going to buy a coped raised panel cutter with back cutter as well from them.

[Jim Andrew]

I have a Freud set, and usually make the panels and frames both 3/4" thick. Whatever the panel offsets the frame in back is how much the panel is proud of the frame. Usually about 1/8". I have used panels 5/8" thick to make the front of the panel even with the frame. My set doesn't have the back cutter, but you could run the panels on edge through the table saw if you want to get a set without the backcutter. Jim

[Steve Flavin001]

exactly what these fellows describe. But, since the frames and/or panels sometimes might vary from 3/4", they can be back trimmed as Jim points out on a table saw. The one consideration to toss out here is the advantage in these cases in the use of the panel cutter without the back cutter and a separate back cutter which tends to give a little more precise or better cut on the back (curved at the inside) when needed. I prefer the separate back cutter all the time.

[Charles McCracken]

When making raised panels. Does the stock thickness have to be thicker than 3/4 for any reason.
Am I right if by saying this:
1) Using a back cutter raised panel bit it will allow the panel to be flush with the face.
2) Using a raised panel bit with no back cutter the panel will be raised 1/4 of an inch over door frame.

Craig,

There are basically three common ways to make the panels:

1. Use 3/4" stock with a 3/4" stock panel raiser and the panel will be proud of the frame in front by 1/8" - 3/16":
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4164PACE4XL._SS400_.jpg

2. Use 5/8" stock with a 5/8" panel raiser to make the panel flush with the frame in front and recessed in back (you can aalso use these with 3/4" stock and make a separate back cut so the panel will be flush in front and back):
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412WGNN697L._SS400_.jpg

3. Use a 3/4" panel raiser with backcutter to make panels in 3/4" stock that are flush on front and back and also control the tongue thickness as you cut:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31oYTOQtLKL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

[Mike Goetzke]

When making raised panels. Does the stock thickness have to be thicker than 3/4 for any reason.
Am I right if by saying this:
1) Using a back cutter raised panel bit it will allow the panel to be flush with the face.
2) Using a raised panel bit with no back cutter the panel will be raised 1/4 of an inch over door frame.


I'm just a hobbyist but have made several raised panel doors. Actually I have made doors of many varieties: 1) 3/4" frame - 3/4" panel with back-cut. 2) 3/4" frame - 3/4" panel w/o back-cut (yes, panel proud of frame. 3) 3/4" frame - 5/8" panel w/o back-cut.

This is what is nice about this hobby, not really any right/wrong way to do things - use your imagination and try different ways.

Mike

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks , I think im skilled enough to make these. Im a bit worried about chatter on such a dense wood. Sapele. I heard that it may like to twist when cutting it? I have a 2.25 Hp bosch set up in a table.

[Brian D Anderson]

What a timely thread for me. I'm just about to make my first door and was a bit confused about the panel being proud of the rails and stiles. My panel bit doesn't have a backcutter and I was trying to figure it all out in my head.

One thing is for sure, I'll make my first door out of mdf, then use the good wood.

Thanks for the info.

-Brian

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks , I think im skilled enough to make these. Im a bit worried about chatter on such a dense wood. Sapele. I heard that it may like to twist when cutting it? I have a 2.25 Hp bosch set up in a table.

Not familiar with Sapele, but, I once had a Bosch 1617evs in a RT. Is yours VS? If so slow it way down. Then set the panel raising bit height. Move your RT fence in front of the bit bearing to make a slight cut then progressively move the fence back until you are just riding the bearing (i.e. make several passes - with my 1617 I would make 3-4 passes in red oak).

Mike

[Craig D Peltier]

Not familiar with Sapele, but, I once had a Bosch 1617evs in a RT. Is yours VS? If so slow it way down. Then set the panel raising bit height. Move your RT fence in front of the bit bearing to make a slight cut then progressively move the fence back until you are just riding the bearing (i.e. make several passes - with my 1617 I would make 3-4 passes in red oak).

Mike

Yes its variable speed. Thanks for the info. I guess the bits have reccomended speeds.

[Steve Clardy]

I surface my panels to 5/8".

I don't like the panel being proud of the frame.
Also with 5/8", you don't have to back cut the panel.

[Matt Ocel]

When I bought the Freud Raised Panel cutter set it came with a DVD that walks you through the process from rails and styles through raised panels.
It also gives you the formula to calculate what size to cut the panels to fit the frames.

[Lenny Howard]

Thanks , I think im skilled enough to make these. Im a bit worried about chatter on such a dense wood. Sapele. I heard that it may like to twist when cutting it? I have a 2.25 Hp bosch set up in a table.


You might consider removing some of the waste part of the cut on the tablesaw first. It would reduce the strain on the router and bit. Don't try to take too much off at once, instead a series of lighter cuts using featherboards will give good results.

Lenny

[J.R. Rutter]

Sapele isn't as dense as maple - more like cherry. You should be fine. It is almost always quartersawn and doesn't twist nearly as much as Khaya (another African Mahogany). It machines pretty well, too.

Just to add mud to the waters, I make a door style that uses both a 5/8" panel and back cutter to create a raised profile that is below the front plane of the door frame (the back is flush). The real advantage to having panels flush front and back is when you use a sander to flush everything up after assembly. If you are not doing that, then I would suggest making panels slightly proud, or slightly recessed. It gives a more unique, fine handmade furniture feel.

[Joe Chritz]

When I do doors I mill my stock at .810 and set the panels so they are flush front and back. That requires a back cut because I don't have a back cutter on my shaper cutter.

The doors are then run through the drum sander on both sides, finishing at .750.

Flush front and flush back.

Without a drum sander you can do the same thing by carefully milling the panels to end flush.

Joe

[Jim Andrew]

Don't know how long your router will last doing panels. Will help if you saw some of the excess off in table saw. I have been using ash and white oak, which are both very tough, and I use my M12V 3 1/4 hp router. It has the speed control built in so you maintain the same power, unlike with external speed controllers. And I found that sawing the bevel on the panel saves me shattering panels, as sometimes the panel does just fine taking the whole cut, although slowly, and other times you blow a big hole off the side of the panel. Jim

[Craig D Peltier]

I have the wood. I manage to get some 12-14 inch by 8 foot long sapele. So im going to try it. I didi try to farm it out but the guy has been a flake. I need/want to learn so I guess now is as good a time as any other learning time.
I think im going to buy the sommerfelds 4 inch bit that you use 3 inch stiles for the cut on the frame as well. SO the router will be doing double duty. If she dont make the cut more way than one I guess I will be asking whats the biggest router to use for this. Maybe I should just look for a used shaper.