Using Somerfield Router bit set with Kreg Pocket hole jig

[Daniel Hillmer]

Hi,

I’m considering using the Somerfield tool Tongue & Groove Cabinetmaking router bit set combined with the pocket hole method described in his video for kitchen cabinet assembly. Just curious if anyone had any experience with this method, and what were the results.

I am planning on using my Kreg pocket hole jig with the sommerfeld router bit set, anyone combine these two kits?

Also, what do you think about the quality of the router bit set itself that they sell for $109.00. Is it of decent quality, and also do you know who makes the bits? Are they American made, or made in china, etc.

Thanks much for any insights.

[Steve Leverich]

I have the deluxe set (with picture molding bit) and so far am happy with it - although I'm still gearing up and have yet to actually build my cabinets. At one time, Mark's bits were made by CMT but I seem to remember some info about him finding his own suppliers and customizing things - for example, CMT's tongue and groove bits are NOT set up with shank lengths to accomodate bit changes without resetting height, and also are not assymetrical like the Sommerfeld ones - to me, this is a handy feature so you can decide just by flopping the work whether you flush cut or allow for scribing your cabinets to a wall.

Near as I can tell, bit quality is still somewhere akin to CMT or Freud, perhaps a bit better than Rockler.

One thing I found out after watching the video - the pocket hole jig Marc sells does NOT have the same attributes as the Kreg (I have the K3 set) or else I REALLY screwed up - I can't use the settings for offset Marc calls for in the video and have the screw miss the tongue (necessary for best hold in the un-drilled piece) - I'm guessing that maybe the slant of the pocket hole is a bit different from Kreg vs. the CMT jig he was pushing at the time.

Anyway, here are my findings for getting the Kreg jig/bit to drill pocket holes where the screw thread will miss the tongue - this is for 3/4" material.

1. Set the jig for 1-1/4" material thickness.
2. Set the stop collar (using the Kreg clamp jig) for just slightly deeper than 1/2-way between the 7/8" and 1" depth settings (using the right-hand trough in the Kreg jig) - IOW, put the SHOULDER of the drill bit between the 7/8" and 1" marks and tighten the stop collar on the bit when the collar is snug against the back edge of the Kreg jig.

You will need to use 1-1/2" screws for this, as you've effectively backed out on the depth of your pocket hole.

Of course, use the correct threaded screws - fine thread where the threads will be in hardwood, coarse threads for softwood/plywood.

These are notes I made when playing with the stuff about 4 months ago, so for your own protection don't forget to try all this with SCRAP material - YMMV... Steve

[Jeff Wright]

I am a fan of Sommerfeld's tongue and groove system. Here is a prior link showing some pics of a cabinet I built using his system:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57474

Be sure to run a test using the Kreg pocket screws on some scrap wood as the previous poster suggested. I failed to do that and, following the instructions in the kit, I ended up drilling the screws too far and they came out the other end of the finished wood. I won't make that mistake again.

I am using the offset T&G set this week in building a cabinet for my new grinding wheel. I use my Domino to assemble the face frame using floating tenons. I do use the Kreg pocket screws where I know they will not be seen.

As for quality of products, his router bits are of high quality. I've not been disappointed and would buy more. I also have his glass door kit and they worked extremely well. I do not have his pocket hole jig. I have the Kreg model instead.

[Dennis Montgomery]

I have been using Sommerfeld cabinet making bit set for a couple years. I also have their pocket hole jig which works great. I build all my face frame cabinets using this bit set. It's a wonderful setup and makes cabinet building easy. I would highly recommend getting their cabinet making DVD also. It is an excellent instructional video using their bit set and also covers door and drawer making.

[Wayne Cannon]

I use both the Kreg K2000 and the Sommerfeld pocket hole jigs. The adjustment of which you speak is normally the "stock thickness" adjustment for both -- the Sommerfeld jig and the Kreg K3 both use a height adjustment of the guide-bushing block, while the Kreg K2000 uses various combinations of blocks and spacers to raise either/both of the guide-bushing block and the work piece.

There are no substantive differences between the K3 and the Sommerfeld jigs for this, so I suspect the companies simply choose different bushing-block heights from one another for given stock thicknesses.

Sight down the jig with the drill bit inserted all the way to the base and the end of a piece of tongue stock next to it. Set the bushing-block height so the drill will miss the tongue (which, otherwise, results in less bite in the groove stock for the screw and a weaker joint).

[Joe Scharle]

Be sure to run a test using the Kreg pocket screws on some scrap wood as the previous poster suggested. I failed to do that and, following the instructions in the kit, I ended up drilling the screws too far and they came out the other end of the finished wood. I won't make that mistake again.

I did that the first time, and everyone I know has too!

[Bruce Wrenn]

FYI - Marc Sommerfeld, and Craig Sommerfeld (maker of the Kregg jigs) have the same last name. Marc used to do his thing as a part of Kregg, but forged a relationship with CMT, and then went out on his own. That is why system components resemble each other, as far as the pocket hole stuff is concerned.