What Do I Have?

[Victor Stearns]

Greetings Creekers,
I was moving things around the workshop today as the LOML and daughter where spending some quality time at the MALL!$!$!$ I came across three of my planes that I have not identified as of today. Here are the photos. There are no markings of any kind. I am hoping the Creek can help. Any feed back is appreciated.
Thanks Again
Victor

[Frank Drew]

Victor,

Without any markings or other identifying clues, it's hard to say much beyond that you have a transitional wood-bodied jack plane, a smoother, and another jack plane, this time metal. The two metal planes are in the general Bailey/Stanley/etc. form. They could be from any number of makers. Others may see more than I do.

[Jim Koepke]

The smoother looks like it does not have a lateral adjuster.
If it is a Stanley, it should have patent dates inside the brass depth adjuster. It may help to take the blade off and take pictures of the frog.

It might also help to lightly sand the area at the top of the blades to see if there are makers marks.

jim

[Jim Koepke]

Forgot to mention the transitional planes are often marked at the toe or heel by the makers.

On the metal jack, check the lateral adjuster for any marking. If it is rusted, it may be necessary to sand it down a little.

Again, having pictures with the blades out so the frogs can be seen may be of help.

jim

[Greg Drozdowski]

Hi,
Any chance you can post some more pictures of the smoother? It doesn't appear to be a stanley by the length of the plane or the shape of the tote.
thanks, Greg

[Andy Haney]

I know NOTHING about this, and could easily be corrected by this group...

That said, the transitional jack looks a lot like a Stanley No. 27 I have. The wood body on mine is "stamped" with STANLEY RULE & LEVEL Co No 27" at the front. There are no other visible markings.

Andy

[Clint Jones]

The trans and the jack are junk chuck em. The smoother is a Stanley. It is a No.3 either type 1-4. Ive seen enough early stanleys to know it most likely isnt a type 1 or 3. To be able to tell you definately take a picture of the brass nut on the back and the plane with the frog off and I can tell you exactly what it is and when it was made. A type 1 will have a solid brass nut (as pictured) and will say Bailey Woods etc. A type 2 will look as the one does in the picture. A type 3 will have a recessed nut with baileys patent inside but the frog is funky. Here is a type 2 no.3 for reference.
88300
88301

[Jim Becker]

First one looks very much like the #26 transitional jack I have in the shop.

[steve swantee]

It looks like a Stanley No.3 to me, possibly a Type 2, as the cheeks appear higher and farther forward than later models, and because of the high cross rib in front of the iron. Nice plane!

Steve

[Victor Stearns]

Good Evening Creekers,
Further research on the three planes in question:
First Picture: Dunlap, once I removed blade this was easily seen.
Second Picture: Bailey, It does have a "3" cast in the frog. Also the brass adjuster nut is solid with a patent date of 1858 on it, with the Bailey name.
Third Picture: Dunlap, It also has a 409 on the bottom of the frog once I removed it.
An internet search returned that the Dunlap was possbily a Sears "second" line of hand tools.
While it has been suggested that I discard two of the three, I have already taken sometime this past winter to clean and shapen all of my planes. (I was given a total of planes sometime ago.)
The planes are not causing any harm, nor taking up any additional space in the shop.
I do intend to use the other planes and look forward to making some shavings with them.
One of the other planes is a Stanley #40, I beleive this is called a scrub plane. Thus what does one do with a scrub plane?
Thanks Again,
Victor

[Jim Becker]

Victor, a scrub plane is for very rough work taking off stock quickly. Wide open sole and usually a cambered iron. You've probably seen a similar effect on old, hand hewn beams and the like, although they may have been done with an adz.

[Mark Stutz]

Victor,
Think of the scrub as a Neander thickness planer...for hogging off lots of material quickly. The curved iron (and I'll use that term to distinguish it from the term camber that is often applied to the gentle curve of a smoother) will take big thin chips off the surface. At this point, you don't dare about the surface left, just getting wood off quickly. Then one can refine that surface with a jack, before the jointer to flatten. Really helpful if you are starting with roughsawn stock. I'll even use it to knock off the high corners on a twisted board before going to the ...ssshhh...tailed jointer.

Mark