Boiling

[Tom Bucanan]

How many of you guys use the boiling technique? I have been using a combination of DNA and just plain old anchorsealing in order to dry my blanks, but I am interested in this new method. I could definitely get my hands on an old oil drum and cut it in half, but does it really work?

Also, I would be boiling and then returning after the wood had dried. Does it really muddy the colors of the wood beyond the wood that will be turned away?

Finally, what are your processes? I know one hour per one inch, but do you have to put the bowls in the water and bring it up to boil? Or, can you just throw bowls into already boiling water? Do the bowls have to cool with the water or can they be just pulled out and when a new set of bowls are thrown in?

-Tom

[RL Johnson]

Go to Steven Russell website and read about boiling wood. He has a nice article to answer your questions.
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

[Thomas Bennett]

Fellow Creeker John Sheets and I boiled a cherry tree of blanks a couple of years ago. We followed Steve Russel’s methods with one addition. We “spiced up’ the water with a little Anchor Seal. The “one hour per inch thickness” seemed to work beautifully. We placed all of the blanks in brown paper bags donated by our local recycling center. We achieved 100% success as we kept away from any “brancletes” or pith. Several of Johns blanks developed holes in the bottom…not from any drying situation, if you know what I mean!

[Dave Peck]

I'm a strong advocate of boiling any wood that is prone to cracking. Not only do you eliminate the cracks and distortion but the piece dries much quicker - three to 4 months and it's ready. I extend the time beyond 1 hr per inch and it's a roiling boil, not a simmer.

[Reed Gray]

Dale Larson of Portland OR used this method on Madrone, which I have found to be one of the most difficult woods to dry without cracking. It is very sucessful. It does muddle the colors together, which I don't really care for. The colors still look nice, but not as nice as air dried. The same for kiln dried lumber compared to air dried. Personally, I like warped bowls.
robo hippy

[Norm Zax]

While you're at it, read about the LDD method. Many success stories with that.

[Reed Gray]

Another thought on the boiling, you want a stainless or at least galvenized tub for boiling. Metal stains wet woods, especially woods with high tanin levels like oak.

The LDD soak does make sanding easier, but doesn't really do anything for stabilizing.

robo hippy

[Tom Bucanan]

stainless steel drum? What is a typical oil drum made out of?

[Richard Madison]

Reed,
That might not be a problem. There might be a little staining if the drum is seriously rusty, but iron does not dissolve in water. The reaction with tannin in the wood is ebonizing, which is indeed a reaction with an iron compound. But the medium is typically acid (white vinegar), and the iron compound (iron acetate?) is dissolved, in solution.

Maybe somebody would want to try this on small scale, say, with a rusty coffee can and scrap of wood?

Edit: Most 55 gallon drums are steel (iron plus a little carbon and other stuff).

[David Wilhelm]

I'm very happy with my results from LDD. It's cheaper than DNA and I dont have to worry about evaporation. Turning wet out of the soap you'll still get the warp but I've wrapped and dated and they turn out great. It is messy but i dotn have to wash my hands when i done :)