HELP!!!! New jointer shuts down after start up

[Russell Tribby]

I just bought a GO586 from Grizzly. I didn't have 220V in my garage so I had a friend of mine that does electrical work put it in for me. He installed a 30 amp circuit and used 12 gauge wire but I can't get the jointer up and running. It will start for a second and then shut down. A couple of times it has tripped the breaker. We had a 20 amp circuit installed but the jointer would trip the breaker everytime with it so we switched to the 30 amp. What's going on?!?!?! I was counting on this thing to be up and running this weekend. I've got three jobs I'm working on and I can't do a thing without the jointer working.

[Phil Dixon]

A 30 amp circuit requires #10 wire. I dont know if this fixes your problem or not.

Phil

[Russell Tribby]

Why then when we had the 20 amp circuit would it not even start? Sorry for the dumb questions, I am not very savvy when it comes to electrical.

[jim sauterer]

check with a meter to see if you get 220 volts.did he pick the lines from both legs.30 amp does require 10 gage wire.

[Larry Rasmussen]

With the 12 gauge wire. It wouldn't account for current problem. The catalog says the jointer can run 110 or 220 volts and is pre wired for 220. One thing you could do is to of course check the wiring and make sure it is in the 220 configuration but then wire it to to 110 and check it out to see if you have a viable piece of equipment and motor. You would have to bypass the switch that came with it as it states it is for 220V only. If it works with 110 maybe you could run some of your must do stuff through it before you go back to problem solving. Good luck.

Larry Rasmussen
Seattle

[Russell Tribby]

My bad, he ran #10 wire with the 30 amp. He checked the outlet to make sure we were getting enough power and it checked out. Do you think there is something wrong with the jointer? I've noticed that the power cord is really warm even after just running for a second. My friend was surprised that the cord was so small. He thought that it was too little for 220V.

[Tom Veatch]

The Grizzly web site calls it a 2HP motor. That should translate to 10-12 amps on a 220 circuit. Check the dataplate on your motor and see what it says. Also, like Jim suggests, verify that you actually have 220-240 volts at the outlet

If the voltage and the 2HP is correct, it should have run quite comfortably on a 20 amp circuit. If it's tripping a 20 amp breaker, and especially a 30 amp breaker, there's something defective in the motor. Get on the phone to Grizzly.

As others have said, if you've got 12ga wire in the wall, replace the 30amp breaker with a 20 amp unit. That jointer should be quite happy on a 220v/20 amp circuit.

Relative to the "small cord". Conductor size is based on amperage not voltage.

[Russell Tribby]

The Grizzly web site calls it a 2HP motor. That should translate to 10-12 amps on a 220 circuit. Check the dataplate on your motor and see what it says. Also, like Jim suggests, verify that you actually have 220-240 volts at the outlet

If the voltage and the 2HP is correct, it should have run quite comfortably on a 20 amp circuit. If it's tripping a 20 amp breaker, and especially a 30 amp breaker, there's something defective in the motor. Get on the phone to Grizzly.

As others have said, if you've got 12ga wire in the wall, replace the 30amp breaker with a 20 amp unit. That jointer should be quite happy on a 220v/20 amp circuit.

Relative to the "small cord". Conductor size is based on amperage not voltage.

I am getting enough voltage at the outlet, my buddy checked that when he was here. There is 10ga wire in the wall with the 30amp breaker. When I turn the machine on it either trips the breaker or runs for a second and then shuts down. If the breaker isn't tripped there is still power coming to the machine because the light is still on but the motor won't start. Pushing the reset button will reset everything but it just goes back to tripping the breaker or running for a second and shutting down. It's staring to sound like I got a bad apple. Has anyone had to return something to Grizzly? Will they ship a new one out pronto or will they wait until they get this one back?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Russell,

Are you running it at 220 or 110 vac?

According to the manual, it draws 12 amps at 220 and 24 amps at 120.
If you are running it at 220, Grizzley recommends a 15 amp breaker. If you are running it at 120, they recommend a 30 amp breaker.

If you are running it at 120, the magnet switch must be replaced.

If you are running it at 220 the 30 amp breaker should not trip and something is wrong. Get an electrician to check out your wiring.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Russell,

Grizzley is known for good customer service. The owner is a member here and has stepped in on occasion to see that somebody got the service they deserve.

[Russell Tribby]

Russell,

Are you running it at 220 or 110 vac?

According to the manual, it draws 12 amps at 220 and 24 amps at 120.
If you are running it at 220, Grizzley recommends a 15 amp breaker. If you are running it at 120, they recommend a 30 amp breaker.

If you are running it at 120, the magnet switch must be replaced.

If you are running it at 220 the 30 amp breaker should not trip and something is wrong. Get an electrician to check out your wiring.

Ken, it's running at 220V. For all intensive purposes the guy that helped me out is an electrician and he checked out the wiring inside the machine. Taking into account everything you guys have told me it sounds like something is wrong with the jointer. I'll call Grizzly first thing on Monday and see what they say. I'm hoping that they will send me a new machine asap. I've got three jobs in the waiting that are now at a stand still.

[Thad McCulloch]

If you're running it at 220, try taking the belts off so there's no load on the motor. If it still trips the breaker, either the motor is defective or your friend wired something up wrong.

[Johnny Kleso]

Ask you friend to wire motor direct to plug and try it...

Sounds like the motors jumpers are not wired corectly or could be a bad switch as they dont use the best switchs and wires..

You may want to replace the wire and plug as I have dound this to be a week link with my import machines and well worth spending $10 to keep it running a few years longer..

[Rich Torino]

I know that the motor is supposed to come wired for 220 but did you check to see if it actually is??? It may have been set up for 110. Just a guress don't really know if it were wired for 110 and if it was plugge into 220 how it would react...

[Russell Tribby]

If you're running it at 220, try taking the belts off so there's no load on the motor. If it still trips the breaker, either the motor is defective or your friend wired something up wrong.

I took the belts off and the same thing happened. It ran for a second and then shut down. It still has power but the motor won't run. Wouldn't you know it...my first piece of Grizzly machinery and I happen to get a lemon.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Russell,

I work in electronics. I service CT scanners, MR scanners, and x-ray equipment for a very large corporation. I started working in electronics in 1970. I'll give you some advice based on my 38 years of experience installing and servicing equiment from radar to medical systems. Get ahold of your buddy and recheck everything you've done so far.

I have found a lot of errors wired by electricians during an installation. I have found a lot of errors I did during an installation. When I'm installing a new piece of equipment and encounter problems, the very first thing I do is check everything I've done. If I don't find any thing wrong with what I've done, I then start checking everything the electrician did.

You are operating at 220.....you should be able to run on a 15 amp breaker and certainly a 20 amp breaker. There is no way you should have to run on a 30 amp breaker. Either the motor/ magnetic switch has a problem or something in the wiring is mis-wired.

I'll bet Grizzley will help you and probably offer to send you a new motor. But to keep from having egg on your face, I'd recheck everything while you are waiting.

This is coming from a guy who has had enough egg on his face over the years to make a couple omelets.:o

[Tom Veatch]

... Has anyone had to return something to Grizzly? Will they ship a new one out pronto or will they wait until they get this one back?

My experience with a little 4x6 metal cutting bandsaw from Grizzly indicates that they will bend over backwards to get you up and running. They were quite willing to ship me a replacement and included an RMA shipping label so I could return the original at their expense after I received the replacement.

If I wanted to go out on a limb, I'd guess that you've got a bad start capacitor in the motor. That's happened to me several times over the years and was one of things wrong with the aforementioned bandsaw. Every time, the symptoms were consistent with what you describe. Pop the cover off the capacitor before you talk to Grizzly. If it's leaking fluid, you've found the problem. Then it's up to you whether you want to wait for a shipment from Grizzly or spend a few bucks for a local replacement.

[Russell Tribby]

Thanks for the advice Ken. My buddy did recheck everything before we went to the 30amp breaker. Additionally he checked all the wiring on the machine to make sure it was kosher. As I mentioned previously, he checked the outlet to make sure it was putting out enough voltage and it was. He put in some 110V outlets not far from the 220V and they are working fine. It sounds to me like there is something wrong with the machine. I'll get on the phone first thing Monday and walk through all the wiring with Grizzly. If I made a mistake somewhere in the wiring process I don't mind wearing some egg, I just want my jointer up and running.

[Russell Tribby]

I know that the motor is supposed to come wired for 220 but did you check to see if it actually is??? It may have been set up for 110. Just a guress don't really know if it were wired for 110 and if it was plugge into 220 how it would react...

It came prewired for 220V. I'm with you, I don't know what would happen if it was wired for 110V and plugged into 220V.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Have you checked all the connections on the mag switch? I had the same problem with my Grizzly jointer and it turned out to just be a lose connection on the mag switch.

[Stephen Edwards]

Call Grizzly on Monday is my suggestion, too. No offense intended to your buddy, but you might want to have another electrician double check that all the wiring is correct.

In my experience with Grizzly their customer service is outstanding. I'd recommend having notes ready when you place the call and speak to a tech support person. They are likely to ask you specific questions about the wiring, voltage, etc. It will be helpful to you and to them to have specific answers to those questions.

[Russell Tribby]

I checked all the mag switch connections and they all seemed fine. If they do end up sending me a new motor how difficult a job is it to switch out? I haven't gone under there to look.

[Bob Wingard]

Got another 220 device you can plug into that same outlet to verify it's wired & working correctly ?? ?? That certainly would narrow it down.

If the motor is bad, Grizz will probably send you a new one, and ask you to replace it if you are capable and agree to it.

[Russell Tribby]

Got another 220 device you can plug into that same outlet to verify it's wired & working correctly ?? ?? That certainly would narrow it down.

If the motor is bad, Grizz will probably send you a new one, and ask you to replace it if you are capable and agree to it.

I thought about that, Bob. However, I don't have another 220 device that I could plug in there. My buddy checked with the ampmeter and everything was fine at the outlet.
How hard can it be to switch out the motor? I've replaced fuel pumps on cars, surely I can swap out a motor on a jointer.
By the way, my wife went to Lee for a year. We almost moved out to Cleveland last year. I interviewed for a teaching job at a highschool, can't remember which one, but they decided to go with a local candidate. You live in beautiful country.

[John Thompson]

Does it have a start capacitor on the motor housing? If so.. check the amp rating on the capacitor itself. Your 2 HP motor won't pull more than 11-13 amps on 220 V when running. But... on start up it will draw more iniatially for just a second.

If the start capacitor is 15 A or lower.. you probably need a 20 A. Or it may simply be faulty and just closing down with the initial surge. The symtoms are.. just afer start-up, it shuts down the motor.

But.. the more I think about it, there would most likely be a re-set and you would not be able to start the motor again until you did re-set that device. Definitely call Griz on Monday as I'm sure you will.

Sarge..

[J. Z. Guest]

Based on what I've read so far, I'm betting on a problem in the motor cap.

One other thing to check: When the belt's off the motor pulley, does the rotor turn freely by hand? If not, that's probably you're problem. (bad bearing or something) If so, it seems to all point to the cap.

It doesn't have to be leaking to be faulty either.

If you can change a fuel pump in a car, you can change the motor yourself. It is a much cleaner job too. ;)

Grizzly may send you a new cap or a whole new motor. I wouldn't start to panic about Grizzly yet. I had one of their cheaper planers a while back and it was fine. Note that they are "Purveyors of Fine Machinery," not the actual makers. Some of the companies they "purvey" from may not have their quality in check.

Agree that this should take nowhere near 30 A to run at 220 V. It will probably draw over 30 A for a second or so right at start-up, from the inrush current, but when it settles in, it will be a good deal less than that, probably well under 10 A with no load.

[Casey Calouette]

One other thing I would check is to see if the centrifugal switch is stuck. See this wikipedia link (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_switch). I had a similiar experience on a dayton dust collector, same thing, 220V. The operator would turn it on and it would kill the breaker after a second. Basically it has locked in the run capacitor and is not engaging the start capacitor.

To make a short story long... We locked out the power, opened the cover, and a small piece of grit had jammed up the operating assembly on the centrifugal switch. It was only in operation a few days so most likely a burr or some such left over from assembly.

Hope that helps, but make sure to lock it out before working on it!

[John Thompson]

For those of you that may be reading this.. if you happen to have an early Steel City 18" BS.. it came with a 10 A capacitor. Same problem occassionally as it would just stop after initial start up. Even though the BS pulls no more than about 10 A after start-up.. the surge would shut down the capacitor and you would have to mash the re-set button on the capacitor to re-start.

Fix.. the problem was idenified and all saws come with a 20 A capacitor at this point. For those that have the 10 A.. simply call SC tech and you get the 20 A replacement sent out pronto. And BTW.. simple installation as you pull the male and female leads off the old terminals and slide them on the new one. Screw the capacitor housing back on (two screws as the housing sits outside the motor) and the problem has gone "bye-bye".

Sarge..

[Mike Heidrick]

How long is the cord from the jointer to the receptical?
Are you using an extension of any kind?

[Ron Williams]

I have a 12" Grizz and had a similar problem it was resolved by adjusting 2 controls inside the switch housing

[Russell Tribby]

I have a 12" Grizz and had a similar problem it was resolved by adjusting 2 controls inside the switch housing

What two controls? When you say switch housing are you referring to the actual on/off switches on the pedestal mount?

I am not using an extension cord. I did go to Lowe's this morning and got 15' of some 10/3 to replace the cord. Someone had suggest switching out the cord not only to see if that fixed the problem but as a preventative measure as well.

[Harry Niemann]

Perhaps by now you have talked to Grizz, but, one thing I would try is connecting your 220 power cord or a separate cord direct to the motor terminals bypassing the switch. A poor or high resistance connection could prevent full voltage from reaching the motor.

[Ron Williams]

Check inside the switch box for 2 dials to adjust (Call Grizzly)

[Paul Simmel]

I'm waiting to hear what Grizzly said, too. Sounds like the motor was wired for 110V. Could happen easily enough. That would trip the breaker for sure.

[Russell Tribby]

Well, I think I should probably get in touch with Ken to see if he can help me with this egg on my face. I called Grizzly first thing this morning. The first thing they suggested was to make sure that I was getting enough power to the mag switch. I had to go get a voltmeter (is that what it's called) at the borg after school before I could do that. After I did that and everything checked out I called Grizzly again this afternoon. I was helped by Don, who was extremely helpful. He walked me through all the wiring in the mag switch and the pedestal switch to make sure everything was correct. It turns out that I had wired the box on the motor wrong:mad:. My electrical buddy had checked the wiring against the diagram inside the box and it looked good to him. Go figure. The wiring diagram inside the manual was different from the diagram in the box. However, it says in the manual that whatever is in the box supercedes the manual. Regardless, all I had to do was switch one wire and I was up and running:). I only had a minute to play with this thing this afternoon and it cut like a dream. It is a huge improvement over the Ridgid that I had before this. Thanks to everybody for the advice. Sorry that I'm such an idiot!

[Stephen Edwards]

You're not an idiot......you were just anxious about your new machine! And now, you've learned, as many others have, what good customer service is all about. Refreshing, isn't it? I hope you enjoy your Grizzly machines as much as I'm enjoying mine!

Very kind regards,

[Rich Konopka]

Glad to hear that it worked out fine for you. I am glad to see that Grizzly customer service came through as well.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

[quote=Russell Tribby;850480]Well, I think I should probably get in touch with Ken to see if he can help me with this egg on my face. quote]

When you have enough egg to make an omelet, call me!

Don't be embarrassed Russell. In 38 years of working in electronics, I've seen and done my share.

Glad Grizzely service came through for you and that you are happy with the results!

[Paul Johnstone]

never mind, glad you got it fixed