PDA

View Full Version : Wood selection



Dennis McDonaugh
04-06-2004, 9:02 AM
I'm working on a hand tool chest and need some help with a secondary wood selection.

Its two pieces, sorta like a highboy, 32" wide and 72" high in total. I'm using Honduran Mahogany for the primary wood, but want to edge band the doors and drawers in something else. I want it a deep red and I am thinking about using that chemical (can't think what its called right now) David Marks uses to color mahogany. I think I would like a darker wood for the edge banding, but I'm not sure what would look best with the mahogany. I want the tone of the wood to match the red in the mahogany while being much darker at the same time.

Mark Singer
04-06-2004, 9:39 AM
If it is just a small trim...Magascar Ebony would look great...I have purchased about 4' lengths quite reasonably

Jim Becker
04-06-2004, 10:21 AM
I agree with Mark, ebony or something "ebonized" would be a good choice if you want to go dark. But don't discount using something like tiger maple for these small details, especially if you enhance the figure via dyes, sanding off the excess, and pay attention to grain orientation. That light contrast can be equally striking.

Donnie Raines
04-06-2004, 10:26 AM
I concur with the above...but for cost purposes..I would dye some soft maple to the color of ebony. It will be very difficult to tell the diffrence in the end.

BTW...the chemical he uses is Potassium Dicromite(spelling). It works great. I have used it a few times. The aroma is VERRYYY strong, however, and must be used in a well ventilated room...or outdoors.


DonnieR

Dennis McDonaugh
04-06-2004, 11:24 AM
Thanks for the suggestions. Jim, I'd thought about going light too, but I "see" dark for some reason. Donnie, do you need a respirator when you use potassium dichromate?

Mac McAtee
04-06-2004, 11:43 AM
do you need a respirator when you use potassium dichromate?[/QUOTE]

You don't need a respirator to handle Potassium Dichromate. Just don't sniff the powder. Do wear rubber or plastic gloves. It is one of those chemicals that absorb through the skin if you get it on you. It is a "heavy metal salt". It has been found to cause cancer in mice if they get enough of it on them, but in the dilute solutions and with proper care it is no problem to handle. It also will make your fingers turn a nice brownish yellow that will need to wear off. Dispose of any left overs, rags or brushes in a responsible manner. If there is liquid left over and you don't see yourself using it for a very long time, put it in a safe place with the container open and let the water evaporate off and you end up with the crystals again. Put the jar away, labeled, and if you need it again, add water.

It makes mahogany that we can normally get our hands on a beautiful reddish brown color that resembles Cuban Mahogany that the old time furniture people used for all those old antiques. It makes a very beautiful finish and a coat of linseed oil or the three part magic mix whit garnet shellac over it is one of the nicest finishes on mahogany that you will ever see.

Mix about a tablespoon in 4 oz of water and put on a test piece of mahogany. Let sit overnight and put some of your chosen finish on it. If it is too dark, cut in half with water, that is add 4 more oz. of water and test again. If it is too light add a little more chemical to the mix.

Alan Turner
04-06-2004, 1:07 PM
I used in on three sets of french storm doors for my home, and it has held the color well for 4 or 5 years now. I did the staining outside,with heavy rubber gloves (not the toy disposable kind) and would recommend this method. Great color. When you put it on, and it dries, the wood looks quite orange. But, wet it to see what you will get with a finish. I used the traditional spar varnish since this was an exterior application, and have gotten several requests to build doors as a result.
Alan