Shop-Made Veneers - How Thin Do **YOU** Go??

[Glen Blanchard]

I resawed some Bolivian Rosewood this afternoon with the intention of using it for veneer on a project I am just starting. In an attempt to achieve a nice bookmatch, I cut these at 1/16". I was not comfortable attempting anything thinner and this represents the thinnest I have ever re-sawn. It got me wondering though just how thin others typically cut their veneer.

[Doug Shepard]

When I first got my MM16 I played around to see how thin I could slice things and did several pieces just slightly less than 1/32" without any problems. But I think 1/16" is probably what I'd shoot for anyway. It's nice having a bit extra for a pass or 2 through a drum sander or planer (either b4 or after gluing to a substrate) and just not having to worry about blowing through the veneer layer. Just my 2 cents.

[Tony Bilello]

1) how tall was the board being re-sawed
2) What make and models do you use
3) How much does one roughly cost?
4) Do you have to make special jigs to re-saw that thin or does the blade track that well?

I am behind the times.

Tony B

[Matt Day]

Just a question about resawing veneers, but after resawing a piece do you sand the blade side of the veneer or even take an extremely light pass through the planer to clean it up? Or do you just use the rough side as the glue side?

And after you cut one piece of veneer, do you plane or sand the remaining stock to keep a good face free of blade marks before cutting the next piece of veneer?

[Glen Blanchard]

Just a question about resawing veneers, but after resawing a piece do you sand the blade side of the veneer or even take an extremely light pass through the planer to clean it up? Or do you just use the rough side as the glue side?

I run it through my drum sander.




And after you cut one piece of veneer, do you plane or sand the remaining stock to keep a good face free of blade marks before cutting the next piece of veneer?

Yes - once again, through the drum sander.