remote control... money well spent!

[Terry Achey]

Maybe old stuff for many of you, but I recently installed a wireless remote for my 2hp DC and just can't get over ho wnice it is to not walk to the DC to turn on,.... then walk back to turn off after every time I used a power tool!

Cool thing came with two remotes and I hung one on my shop apron so it's with me every where I go. Soooo very nice! :D

_____________________________________________
Modern Man can never have too many remote controls.

[John Keeton]

Terry

When I ordered my Gorilla 2.5 hp unit I got the optional remote. It makes life so much easier! Can't imagine not going with this option on a new unit.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm using a Long Ranger remote on my DC, I can't even imagine life with out it.

[Gerald Eberhardt]

Terry, which brand did you go with for a 2hp unit?

[James K Peterson]

Where did you get your remotes? I'm getting tired of going back and forth myself :(

Thanks
James

[Brian Penning]

Having the remote for DC is indeed great.
I have the Shopfox and the big plus is it comes with 2 remotes. In my small shop I have them hanging from the ceiling -1 near the TS and the other near the planer and jointer.
Shopfox has both a 110V and 220V model.


Hmmm...while trying to find more info I noticed these reviews on Amazon regarding the 220V model.
I have the 110V and works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-Remote-Collector-Switch/dp/B00012Y74C/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1210163832&sr=1-20

[Jim Becker]

There are many ways to accomplish "remote control" for things like dust collectors. Some folks like the wireless solutions; some of us don't. I used to use wireless remotes. At first it was just one, but it was never where I needed it to be...I don't wear an apron and clipping to my belt meant it invariably ended up in the house. Then I got multiple remotes and velcro-ed them to the major machinery stations. The solved the initial problem, but the particular system I was using was not standing up to the amperage draw of my cyclone and replacing components annually was getting expensive. Today, I have one switch centrally located in my shop that controls a contactor in the DC closet. Utterly reliable, yet convenient. And I don't tend to turn the DC on and off often, anyway. As I move between machines, I just open and close gates, leaving the cyclone running.

That all said, I'm glad that you found your solution! It's very convenient to not have to trot to some corner of the shop every time the DC needs to run.

[Greg Narozniak]

Having the remote for DC is indeed great.
I have the Shopfox and the big plus is it comes with 2 remotes. In my small shop I have them hanging from the ceiling -1 near the TS and the other near the planer and jointer.
Shopfox has both a 110V and 220V model.


Hmmm...while trying to find more info I noticed these reviews on Amazon regarding the 220V model.
I have the 110V and works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-Remote-Collector-Switch/dp/B00012Y74C/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1210163832&sr=1-20

I am on my second one of these. I had one on my Jet DC1100 that I sold to a friend and never had a problem with it. I ordered the 220v version when I got my Oneida 2hp Commercial cyclone and I have had it for over 3 years and have never had one problem with it.

It comes with 2 remotes. One is double stick taped to my TS switch and the other is attached to the Router table switch. I have been thinking of ordering a second one so i can have 2 more remotes. I don't believe that they sell the remotes by themselves but I could be wrong.

[Stephen Edwards]

I wear bib overalls most of the time.....even when I'm not working in the shop! Usually, I clip the RC to one of the shoulder straps on my overalls. When not wearing overalls (rarely) I have a simple string "necklace" that I wear around my neck to which the RC is clipped. I make sure that it isn't long enough to get caught up in any tool that I happen to be leaning over while working. Works great for me.

[Jamie Buxton]

When I enquired, Grizzly told me that they don't sell remotes for the Shopfox separately from the switch.

Buying a second system to get two more remotes might work, but some kinds of remotes -- think garage door remotes -- are encoded so that your remote doesn't accidentally turn on your neighbor's DC.

I'd enquired about replacement remotes for the Shopfox because mine are dying. The ON switch in both remotes has failed. To repair them, I've jury-rigged aftermarket switches taped to the outside. It is ugly, but somehow I can't see replacing the entire system to repair a couple of ten-cent parts, particularly because I expect the replacement would fail in the same way.

[Bruce Wrenn]

IMHO, remotes are for the TV. I have a sensor installed in the power panel in the shop. When any of the machine circuits that pass through it, are powered up, the DC comes on. A cube timer allows for the DC to run for 10 sec. after machine is powered down. This clears the pipes of remaining dust and chips.

[Jim Andrew]

Bruce, your system sounds great! Would you expand a bit with info on the unit, and where you bought it? Also, does it wait till your machine is up to speed before coming on or do you have 2 machines starting at once?

[Bruce Wrenn]

Bruce, your system sounds great! Would you expand a bit with info on the unit, and where you bought it? Also, does it wait till your machine is up to speed before coming on or do you have 2 machines starting at once?My control is based on an article in FWW Aug 2000. The sensor is a stock item from SSAC, with a "cube timer" (delay on break) from Grainger added. The sensor has a coil through which the leads to the machine circuits pass. (You only need one leg of a 220 circuit to pass through sensor) In my shop, I use multiwire branch circuits. This means that one double pole breaker furnishes both two 110 circuits and a 220 circuit. One leg passes through sensor, so 220 controls DC, and one of the 110 circuits also controls DC. Anytime a machine on the 220, or the 110 leg that passes through sensor comes on, so does DC. This means that half of the 110 recpt. and all the 220 recpt. control the DC. All components, including relay for DC are located in the bottom of my power panel. I never have to think about operating DC, as it is totally automatic. But I do have to remember to empty the dust bin. I may add Alan's high level control in the future, right after I take my cyclone apart to add neutral vane to it.

[Terry Achey]

Terry, which brand did you go with for a 2hp unit?

Sorry, I've been out of touch for awhile. I purchased the remote for my 2hp from Grizzly. 220v. rated up to 3hp. Just lovin' it.:D

[Chris Padilla]

Like Jim, I starting to go through "lamp control modules" like popcorn for my contactor run DC system. They don't seem robust enough to handle things although I dunno why. I may be putting a simple switch on it very soon....

[Lance Norris]

I have the Long Ranger 220v and 2 remotes. In my small shop, 2 remotes are overkill, but it is nice. I have a Long Ranger 110v controlling the back lights in my living room. I like the Long Rangers because you can add remotes @ $20. If they ever fail, or I need more...$20. Oh... and it really is long range. I can power the DC from my 2nd floor bedroom, shop is in basement. I did this to see how loud the DC was in the bedroom(I like to work late, dont want to wake the wif).

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LR220-3-Ranger-Collector/dp/B00004S9AG/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1210781987&sr=8-1

Keep in mind, a remote like the Long Ranger or Shop Fox wont work on a DC with a magnetic switch.