I didn't make this, but I need some help...

[John Dykes]

Ok, yes - I know this isn't handtool related, but this is the only place I post... I don't know the other folks outside of here!

Anyway, I'm taking some time on a dining room table. My wife didn't want something with straight lines, she wanted a center round pedestal and ordered one from Adams Wood Products (specifically the Large Traditional Single Pedestal Base).


The pedestal comes with 4 bolts on the top, and to be blunt I don't know how to connect it to my 1" thick round walnut blank. I'm thinking of a 3/4" section of plywood bolted to base, and that then attached via a set of screws in elongated holes? She wants it finished before she decides on if it needs an apron... (which will be another question I post I'm sure).

Thanks -

jbd in Denver

* And for the record, I was worried buying a pedestal. But what I got from Adams Wood in TN impressed me.... I would use them again.

[Johnny Kleso]

Most times there is some riser blocks with a board connecting the risers .. The board and risers are screwed to bottom at each end.. The center of board is wing nuted to base..

[mike holden]

You could take a tip from the piecrust tables. Use two battens running cross grain on the underside of the table top, then a panel attached to the bolts on the pedestal, and connect the two with screws (make the panel the width of the battens).
You could even make it a tilt top with this sort of setup.
Mike

[Chuck Hamman]

John,
The overall height of the table versus the height of the pedestal will play into how you attach the pedestal to the top. And wether or not you add an apron to the top can affect the overall height. Without an apron your table top can be as low as 28", but to get knee clearance from an apron, you will have to go up a couple of inches. I think 30" is the maximum recommended height for a dining room table.

-Chuck