Optimum Blade Type For Milling Cove Molding On A TS

[Keith Starosta]

I was hoping to get some information about what would be the best blade to use when milling out wide (4+ inches) cove molding on the table saw? I currently have a Forrest WWII and the Freud LM72R Heavy Duty Rip blade. For this operation, would it be best to use a blade dedicated to ripping, or crosscutting, or is a combination blade (like the WWII) OK, as well?

Thanks very much for any help!!

- Keith

[Roger Bolen]

CMT makes a cove cutting blade for the table saw that works great. You can also buy it in their crown molding kit which consists of 6 router bits and the cove cutting blade.

Roger

[Greg Robbins]

I use my WWII and take light cuts.

[Lee Schierer]

I've only done this once or twice. There is considerable sanding after the cut depending on what blade you use. I used a Freud ATB 60 tooth blade and had the least amount of sanding to do. A raker type tooth will tend to leave less teeth marks than teeth that are beveled or angled on top.

[David DeCristoforo]

More important than the number of teeth is the thickness of the blade plate. As Lee points out, you are going to have to do some cleanup one way or the other. But you want to use a blade with as thick a plate as you can find to minimize deflection. Note the thickness of the CMT "blade" which is more like a saw mounted shaper knife. The "weight" of the cut will be determined by your saw's power and the rigidity of the blade. But this is a "big bite" for a TS so lighter passes are the way to go. Don't try to hog out too much wood at once.

[Lee Schierer]

Yes, light passes are the way to go. If you can rip cut away most of the material before you try to cut the cove it will cut easier and faster.

[David DeCristoforo]

A few test cuts will tell you a lot about what your saw/blade combination can comfortably handle. But remember that as the cove gets deeper the amount of wood removed with each pass increases.

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks for all of this great information, guys!!

Keith

[Chris Padilla]

For sure, I think you'd want a flat-top blade like you find on ripping blades, wouldn't you? I'd also sharpen up my skills using a gooseneck scraper...the perfect tool for cleaning up that cove!

Just remember, raise the blade slowly and clear the sawdust between the rails you are using so the board doesn't ride on it and mess up your profile.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I use one of the old Craftsman molding heads with the round nose cutters in it. Cutters are easy to sharpen, as you flatten the back, just like a chisel.