Wood filler

[Steven Bolton]

I am looking for a good wood filler to cover small gaps, nail holes, etc. I want something that is durable and won't stick out like a sore thumb.

I might have asked this before, but can you use CA glue and then put sawdust in it?

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[David DeCristoforo]

Sawdust and glue is like the "old faithful" of wood fillers. I like to use epoxy for this. Whatever you use, you want more sawdust than glue. For very small imperfections, I fill the flaw with regular old wood glue and then sand over the area with 150 grit paper. The main thing is not to get the filler hot or even too warm (like sand "by hand", not with a power sander) because heat can darken the glue which can make matters worse.

[Gene Michael]

I've used glue and sawdust filler before and it works, but it doesn't accept stain. You can counter this by using a finish just on the filler that is a combo stain and finish coat to try to match the color of the surrounding wood. There are also several fillers on the market that come in a range of colors that dry hard and can be covered with whatever top coat your using (ployurethane, lacquer, etc.). These fillers are usually kept moist with acetone. The brand I use is 'Famowood.' It's stainable, in addition to coming in a variety of colors. I usually make a piece of test wood with small holes, using several colors of the filler on it, then staining the entire piece of test wood and topcoating with polyurethane. Uaually, one of the combinations results in a color that's compatible with the stain that will be used on the piece I'm building. I've used this method on furniture, baseboard and hardwood flooring.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...but it doesn't accept stain..."

Actually, this is either:

A) A myth or

B) Due to the fact that the filler is more glue than wood....

[Lee Schierer]

I've used the sawdust and glue trick for filling holes and it works well. I use regular PVA type glue and make a thick paste of mostly sawdust.

You can also tint the cmmercial wood filler made by DAP and others with stain. If a project is going to be stained, mix up some of that stain with the wood filler. Fill the holes and then sand and stain the entire piece. The holes all but vanish if you mix the stain with the filler right. I don't think this will work with water based stains.

[Gordy Anderson]

"...but it doesn't accept stain..."

Actually, this is either:

A) A myth or

B) Due to the fact that the filler is more glue than wood....

Am I understanding correctly that you're saying if there's enough sawdust, and not too much glue, it should take stain like the rest of the surrounding wood? Which glue would you recommend specifically for this? I'd like to try it.

[J. Z. Guest]

Sawdust and glue is like the "old faithful" of wood fillers. I like to use epoxy for this. Whatever you use, you want more sawdust than glue. For very small imperfections, I fill the flaw with regular old wood glue and then sand over the area with 150 grit paper. The main thing is not to get the filler hot or even too warm (like sand "by hand", not with a power sander) because heat can darken the glue which can make matters worse.

To add to what David said, with epoxy, you don't need more sawdust than glue. Use as much or as little as it takes to get the color you want. (since epoxy is already an excellent filler)

I haven't tried sawdust w/glue yet. I'll try that next. Hopefully, it will be a long time before I get the opportunity, but I'm not holding my breath. :D

[David DeCristoforo]

"...you're saying if there's enough sawdust, and not too much glue, it should take stain like the rest of the surrounding wood?"

That's what I'm saying. But please keep in mind that my reply was regarding "very small imperfections". Large areas should be filled with "wood filler" or patched. Actually they should be avoided but that's another angle altogether....

I have found that the "best" glue for this is plain old white or yellow glue. But whatever you use, you only want enough glue to bind the wood dust.

[Jim Becker]

The best filler will always be wood of the same species and grain orientation as the material you are "filling" and you want to avoid glue that is on the to-be finished surface if you can. Commercial fillers are fine for painted projects, but it is very unlikely that you will ever be able to make them blend in after coloration and finishing. For small things like nail holes and the like, these should be filled part way through the finishing process after you have your color established but before the final clear coats. Fill them with the "pencils" made for the job or melt able shellac sticks that are of the same or slightly darker shade as your project will be.

[BOB OLINGER]

I'm just about finished putting up several hundred feet of oak crown that we pre-stained and varnished. Although I've tried various products over the years, on this i\I used the stained Minwax putty. After I filled the nail hole by rubbing it in with my finger, I used a cotton cloth dampened with Old Masters furniture polisher (which really is a stain) and rubbed over the filled hole until flush. I achieved very satisfactory results.

[David DeCristoforo]

Pre-finished material is a whole 'nuther can of worms. Color putty or wax sticks are pretty much it.