Larry Rasmussen
05-04-2008, 3:58 PM
Hello all,
I'm an ok rough carpenter and cautious beginning furniture maker. What is discussed here is an irregular shaped desk, built into a corner amost works out to a triangular shape. Size is 7' long X 40" at the widest point. The 7' side and one end are supported continuously along the walls that form the corner. Where it bulges out in the middle to 40" will be supported by a floor to table drawer unit about 12" X 12" at that edge. Darned if I can get this new computer to decrease the resolution enough to post the picture. My old editing program just offerred it as an option. Besides the above description I'll add that the ends come out 20", one un supported and one supported by the wall. From there it just goes out at 45 degrees and meets in the middle with that widest point being 40" from the wall.
In case you're wondering my wife and I are always wanting to get on the computer at the same time so I knocked out this temporary MDF desk top and we picked up a second computer. After a trial period of 3 mos we decided it is a go for permanent installation.
I've got a decent size piece of 4/4 bubinga from a cancelled speaker project. I would simply pick up more of these boards, edge glue them for the table top and call it good. There has been no sagging on the 3/4" MDF but I think a single veritical support on the unsupported end would make it bombproof.
OK my questions. I've never built a table top. I can edge glue easily enough, undecided about using an edge bit, spline or dowels.
1. Any opinions on the spline vs edge bit vs dowels?
2. Should I use an MDF backer for extra stability? The edges will be double bubinga regardless- going back in a few inches on the underside. I am not sure whether the lamination of bubinga to MFD on the remaining single thickness portion would reduce the tendancy to crack or warp with the seasons or exaggerate it because the two laminated materials will react differently to changes in moisture level.
Any advice appreciated,
Larry Rasmussen,
Seattle
I'm an ok rough carpenter and cautious beginning furniture maker. What is discussed here is an irregular shaped desk, built into a corner amost works out to a triangular shape. Size is 7' long X 40" at the widest point. The 7' side and one end are supported continuously along the walls that form the corner. Where it bulges out in the middle to 40" will be supported by a floor to table drawer unit about 12" X 12" at that edge. Darned if I can get this new computer to decrease the resolution enough to post the picture. My old editing program just offerred it as an option. Besides the above description I'll add that the ends come out 20", one un supported and one supported by the wall. From there it just goes out at 45 degrees and meets in the middle with that widest point being 40" from the wall.
In case you're wondering my wife and I are always wanting to get on the computer at the same time so I knocked out this temporary MDF desk top and we picked up a second computer. After a trial period of 3 mos we decided it is a go for permanent installation.
I've got a decent size piece of 4/4 bubinga from a cancelled speaker project. I would simply pick up more of these boards, edge glue them for the table top and call it good. There has been no sagging on the 3/4" MDF but I think a single veritical support on the unsupported end would make it bombproof.
OK my questions. I've never built a table top. I can edge glue easily enough, undecided about using an edge bit, spline or dowels.
1. Any opinions on the spline vs edge bit vs dowels?
2. Should I use an MDF backer for extra stability? The edges will be double bubinga regardless- going back in a few inches on the underside. I am not sure whether the lamination of bubinga to MFD on the remaining single thickness portion would reduce the tendancy to crack or warp with the seasons or exaggerate it because the two laminated materials will react differently to changes in moisture level.
Any advice appreciated,
Larry Rasmussen,
Seattle