Rust - does it ever stop?!

[Adam Cavaliere]

I have just gotten into this not too long ago and have had my first experiences with rust lately.

I didn't treat my two surfaces right away (table saw and jointer). Since then I have been dealing with little spots of rust.

I have tried cleaning them off with 400 grit sandpaper and mineral spirits. The rust is taken away, but a small mark from the rust stays. Is that normal?

I then put T9 on and let it sit for a bit before I wipe it off. Then I buff it because it is sticky if I don't. After that I use WD-40 to slick up the surface a bit. For the most part the rust stays away, but little spots (even where I cleaned) have come back.

Anyone else experience this? What do you guys do?

[Karl Brogger]

Avoid anything touching the bare metal with anything other than wood. that helps, alot. I use chrome polish to remove rust. I routinely scrub down the deck of my tablesaw with Mother's chrome polish. I like em' shiny!

[Jason Beam]

Adam, I think your WD40 is washing away your T9 ...

Get yerself a can of Johnson's Paste Wax (usually found in the floor cleaning supply section at the BORG). Rub it on and wait a few minutes, then buff it off. Do this 3-4 times and everything will be SLICK SLICK SLICK - and it won't rust.

As a true test, I haven't put new wax on in about a year now ... and everything is still rust free. Not quite as slick, but still rust free.

[Johnny Kleso]

Like Neil Yong sang "Rust Never Sleeps" :)

I use CRC and Bostick Table Guards on my TS as in Summer if I sweat on it, I'll have rust the next day :(

I do keep a Gal. Of WD-40 for all other tools and put it in a good spry bottle like shower wall clreaner spray as they are made very well.. WD-40 @lowes is $9.99 a Gal. was made to stop Atlas Rockets from rusting and at 10 bucks you cant beat it........

I due sand the whole top with a 3M Scothbrite Pad each time before using Table Guard on the TS so it bonds well...

[Peter Quinn]

I use butchers bowling alley wax (think tough). Apply, let it haze, buff it out.

WD40 May work for metal on metal friction and casual rust removal but it should not be the last thing to coat your iron before wood touches it.

T9 works well in place of wax, just add $$$$ in place of elbow grease.

[Bryan Hopfensperger]

Get yerself a can of Johnson's Paste Wax (usually found in the floor cleaning supply section at the BORG). Rub it on and wait a few minutes, then buff it off. Do this 3-4 times and everything will be SLICK SLICK SLICK - and it won't rust.


Good advice on the paste wax - and go with Johnson's. Back in the day, it was deemed that paste waxes on floors were too slippery and were therefore regulated. Johnson's formula was grandfathered in because they were the original - and it now says so, of course, on the can. It contains hardeners that the others don't… making it the best choice for tool surfaces.
However, the interesting thing about paste waxes is this: you can't "build up" coats. A layer put on top of a previous one will simply dissolve the former one, leaving a single layer. So, rub in one covering of Johnson's and then buff it out and you're done.

[Frank Drew]

Rust is insidious; I had a shop that I was away from for an extended period and it had dampness issues and consequently rust almost everwhere. Interestingly, the cast iron surfaces were much more resistant to rust than the steel... for instance, the steel column of my drill press had an all over haze of rust but the cast table was fine. Same with my table saw and jointer -- the cast surfaces were fine, but a steel straight tools, clamps, etc. nearby had considerable rust. Go figure. (My fault, of course, for not taking preventive measures.)

Whatever the finish on Bridge City Toolworks rules and straight edges, they didn't show even a speck of rust, FWIW.

[Adam Cavaliere]

Thanks for the replies. I was following what I saw another creeker say he was doing with his stuff. At first I was just using the T9, but it is too sticky alone - even after I have buffed it.

I'll get some johnson's paste wax today and give that a go!

[J. Z. Guest]

I agree with Jason. Avoid the WD40 and T9 and just use Johnson's paste wax.

For me, the jointer needs a fresh coat every couple weeks in the summer. I've also heard that this is the stuff to use for lubing threaded shafts in our tools; a good mix between lubrication and not attracting too much dust.

[Joe Chritz]

I retouch the tops every month around the first. In fact that will be today's short project. It only takes about 20 minutes when done often.

I now leave a fan running on low oscillating all the time. It cuts down on condensation issues dramatically.

Joe

[Ben Rafael]

Pits will hold moisture which is why they seem grow rust from them.
The smoother the surface, the less the rust problem.