Resawing hardwood

[morgan lopes]

I'm about to have a bunch of hardwood (Koa) logs milled and I was wondering if it would be safe to re-saw the slabs at a later time? I've not decided on the final thickness of the slabs yet, as I want it as thick as possible, so I will be milling them to 8/4 initially. However, would it be a bad at idea to split them in half at a later point in time if I should decide to go with something thinner and while it's still air-drying?

I know this will redistribute MC dramatically and I'm not sure how it's going to affect the wood during the drying cycle. Bad idea or doable?

Thanks,
Danny

[Brent Ring]

I am a noob to the whole milling and drying process, but I have some black and english walnut drying at my home right now. I have most of it cut 6/4, but I know what I am doing with it.

I think the conventional wisdom from this group will be to cut big and resaw as necessary, when you know what your uses are going to be.

Out west, in Utah, things dry awfully fast here. I don't think I will have the same drying times that most in the midwest or east have due to humidity and other concerns. The bad side of that is checking is almost impossible to prevent.

[Frank Drew]

Danny

Since it seems you have multiple logs, why not have them sawn up into a variety of thicknesses, from 4/4 up through 12 or 16/4? The thicker it is the longer it will take to dry, of course, but if you're in this for the medium to long term you'll probably be happy later on to have the selection.

You can resaw 8/4 (or whatever) at a later date, depending on width of the material and your access to equipment, but there's no guarantee that the two or more resawn boards will remain flat.

[Greg Cole]

Danny,
I'll make it easy on you. Send them to me and you'll have no worries. :rolleyes:
Seriously, depending on how much you're talking about I'd consider a couple of thicknesses per Franks idea. At least give yourself enough of certain thicknesses for a project if you saw them thinner than 6/4 or 8/4.

Greg

[Chris Padilla]

Danny/morgan (;)),

First things first: seal the end-grain ASAP.

Second: You are new here so we welcome you but WE LOVE PICS to drool over!!

Third: I think you've gotten great advice in this thread. Go all 8/4 but have some larger thicknesses cut as well. Personally, I don't think I'd cut any less than 8/4 because you can always do that later UNLESS you think you'll be needing something sooner than 2 years (rough guide for air-drying is 1" per year).

[Simon Dupay]

Do you want to do all that resawing? Even with a good setup resawing is a PITA. I would do a variety of thicknesses as well.

[morgan lopes]

Sure! They're being cut tomorrow so I'll make sure to post some pics : )

Thanks all for the great advice.

[Peter Quinn]

Are you in Hawaii? I ask because Koa doesn't grow here in New England. I was wondering if relative humidity slows drying time considering the tropical conditions in Hawaii.

Here in the Northeast I'm told by my lumber source that white oak can take 5-7 years easily to air dry in 8/4 to 10/4 thickness, it doesn't give up its moisture quickly particularly. Ash in the same thickness could be ready in 3 years or less. I guess each species has its own time table

[morgan lopes]

Yes, I'm in Hawaii and I wouldn't doubt if the relative humidity slows down air-drying even more. I've asked a couple of woodworkers who've dried Koa and they all pretty much agree on 1 yr for 4/4 and 2yr for 8/4s but double that if it's going to be used for musical instruments.

Drying, too, is still up in the air as I've yet to make that decision. Air-drying preserves the color best but I'm just not so sure if I can handle only being able to touch, smell and stare at the slabs :) I guess I'll be able to make up my mind once we crack them open :) But, I have a feeling it'll go in the kiln once I see a curls smiling at me :)

[Peter Luch]

Morgan,

What island are you on?
I'm on the big island, Kona side.

I think your right to leave some 8/4, I don't see much 4/4 in the lumber stores, maybe there is a reason??

I cut some monkey pod a few months ago and took 3 slabs at 2.5" and the rest at 4/4 to be used as cabinets when I redo our master bath.

Air dry for sure, don't want to do anything to koa to make the grain less.

Pictures please!

Aloha, Pete

[Frank Drew]

First things first: seal the end-grain ASAP.

This can make an enormous positive difference in terms of reducing/eliminating degradation from checking, etc.

Even if you do kiln-dry the lumber, you'd be wise to first air-dry it several months, even half a year (carefully stacked and stickered). I've never used Koa, but I've always loved working with stock that was only air dried; it takes a long time, but the appearance and working properties made it worth the wait, IMO.