Safety switch for Table Saw

[Harley Reasons]

Anyone know of a source for one of the safety switches with the big shut off paddle? I've checked several sites and can't find one. I've seen them on saws in various pictures on this site. I have an older Delta 10" Contractor saw with the small toggle switch currently. It's a PIA to turn on and off and potentially an accident waiting to happen because I have to look down and under the fence to find it. Any help would be appreciated.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Grizzly has a large selection of them.

[Matt Meiser]

Or Rocker--they call it a router table switch. The nice thing is that there's comes in a box.

[Roger Warford]

Some Creekers have made their own: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?referrerid=5960&t=80283.

I've seen another here that I really liked, but can't seem to find the post at the moment. If anyone else has made their own, please post inspirational pics.

[Roger Warford]

Man I'm annoyed that I can't find that other link. But in searching I found that the first result from Google when you search for "shut off paddle" provides some good examples of shop-built solutions.

[Jim Heffner]

You might want to check Busy Bee's website, they have had one on sale
for around $18.00 or so in the recent past....check them out. Jim Heffner

[Harley Reasons]

Thanks guys, I checked out several of the sites and decided I liked the one from Griz the best. It is rated for up to a 2 hp motor so it will handle my 1-1/2 hp motor fine.

[Dale Lesak]

Delta makes a paddle switch for your delta saw. I have a 34-444 and replaced it soon after I got it with the newer switch. I'm thinking it was 44.00 for the hole new setup. switch and wiring just bolt on and plug in. (After removing old switch)

[Johnny Kleso]

GRIZZLY has the best deal!!!!!!

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243

[Wayne Cannon]

My favorite is the ReiTech "Easy Off" power switch. It's a bit pricier than the others, but it's BIG, very easy to hit (or hard to miss), and includes all the hardware for a wide variety of mounting arrangements. It's available either as a simple switch (e.g., for a router table), for a magnetic switch (e.g., for a table saw or jointer), and more.
http://www.safetyonline.com/Content/ProductShowcase/product.asp?DocID={11562817-F3BE-11D4-A770-00D0B7694F32} (http://www.safetyonline.com/Content/ProductShowcase/product.asp?DocID=%7B11562817-F3BE-11D4-A770-00D0B7694F32%7D)

Here's a smaller and less expensive design from Woodworker's Supply:
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=140-066&search=Switch%20Safety

[Dick Bringhurst]

I installed an Off switch similar to the Easy Off on my Jet Contractors saw. I found the placement of it critical. The "on" switch is located at the top of the unit. One time when I went to adjust the height of the blade while the saw was off, I reached down to turn the hand wheel which was directly above the "OFF/On" unit. I was looking at the saw blade and the wood I was going the cut. I reached down to turn the wheel and inadvertently hit the "on" button turning the saw on. I moved the unit further to the side and away from the adjusting wheel. Dick B.

[Russ Hauser]

My delta contractor's saw came with a decent on/off switch, but it always seemed to be under the fence. I simply moved it to the left side of the saw table. It was a little hard to get used to since I'm right handed, but I don't even have to look at it now to hit it.

[Harley Reasons]

My delta contractor's saw came with a decent on/off switch, but it always seemed to be under the fence. I simply moved it to the left side of the saw table. It was a little hard to get used to since I'm right handed, but I don't even have to look at it now to hit it.

My Delta has the old original small toggle switch mounted just left of the height adjustment wheel. Hard to find when turning on and even harder when you are cutting a board and trying to keep it from dropping off the back side after the cut (I know, I need an outfeed table, that is the next project).
The wires to the switch currently run from the motor to the switch through the saw base. I'm going to re-route the wiring to the outside of the saw case to aid in sawdust removal with my DC. I plan to hang the new switch from the underside of the Bessy rail on the left hand side where it will be in easy reach.

[Don Kugelberg]

I own an older Powermatic 66 with a 5HP motor. Does anyone know of a safety switch for my saw? All of the links show switches rated for 3HP saws.

[Matt Meiser]

Don, something like this would probably work for you.
http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.5482/.f?category=14559

[john bateman]

One issue you may have with the Grizzly variant is that it doesn't come with an electrical box. And it requires a rather deep one, and some method of mounting the whole thing where you want it.

I used a plastic conduit box, but it wasn't that easy.
http://members.verizon.net/%7Epecker/0051s.jpg
http://members.verizon.net/%7Epecker/0054s.jpg
This one from Woodworker's Supply at least has the enclosure with it for a few extra $$
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=140-066&search=Paddle%20Switch
http://woodworker.com/images/j210/140-066.jpg

[Mark Engel]

Here is my solution:

http://www.truckblog.com/gallery/Mark05KR/13185.jpg

I had a similar setup on my Delta contractors saw. With this type of setup, you can turn the saw off from anywhere along the front of saw.

You can see the first version sitting on my router/outfeed/assembly/sanding table.

[Bob Hallowell]

Mark,
I was going to make something like that out of wood for my table saw till I figured out it would be in the way of raising and lowering the blade. Does yours get in the way?

Bob

[Tim Marks]

One issue you may have with the Grizzly variant is that it doesn't come with an electrical box.
You can buy the Grizzly electrical box that mounts these switches by purchasing parts for one of their machines that uses it.

For example, from their G0444Z tablesaw parts page, part #44 is the switch box ($7.50), part#45 is the mounting plate ($5.75).

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0444Z/parts/0

[Don Kugelberg]

Thanks Matt - I already have the original mag switch that came with my Powermatic - I was looking for one which has the larger paddle.

[Mark Engel]

Mark,
I was going to make something like that out of wood for my table saw till I figured out it would be in the way of raising and lowering the blade. Does yours get in the way?

Bob

No, it does not get in the way when raising and lowering the blade. I do have to reach around it a little when changing the bevel angle.

[Tom Henderson2]

Thanks Matt - I already have the original mag switch that came with my Powermatic - I was looking for one which has the larger paddle.

One option is the Orion switch used on some Steel City and Craftsman zip-code saws. It isn't cheap at $35 but it is well made, includes the switch, paddle, box, bracket, an 8-foot power cord and ~4-foot motor power lead as well as thermal-overload protection.

It can also handle 220V motors for those that need them.

The Sears part number is OR91712.

Thanks to fellow Creeker Glenn Bradley for helping me dig up this part number info.

-Tom H.

[Harley Reasons]

I own an older Powermatic 66 with a 5HP motor. Does anyone know of a safety switch for my saw? All of the links show switches rated for 3HP saws.

How many amps does it draw? Here's one from Griz that is rated for 220v, 18 amp. Safety Switch (http://www.grizzly.com/products/220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8242)

[Gary Salisbury]

All the major manufacturers seem to be going to paddle switches these days. I just received 10 of these 110/220 vac paddle switches from Grizzly and am upgrading all my stationary power tools so I have a consistant look and feel for all my machines. I am still looking for a similar style magnetic switch for my Jet cabinet saw and 15" planner. Does anyone know of a source for them?

Gary in San Diego

http://www.grizzlyindustrial.com/images/pics/jpeg288/h/h8243.jpg (http://www.grizzly.com/products/H8243/images/0)

[Gary Salisbury]

After some in depth searching on the Grizzly site I found that you can order the 3HP magnetic version of the above paddle switch as a spare part for the G0656 jointer.

79 P0656079 SWITCH PADDLE $21.50

Gary in San Diego

[Gary Salisbury]

Let me give you a heads up warning before you buy any of the paddle switches to do upgrades. They may look the same superficially but they could be quite different internally and NOT 100% interchangeable!

I recently bought 10 of the Grizzly 110/220 vac switch, cover, & paddle combos to upgrade all my Jet stationary power tools.

I was surprised to find that I could NOT use the Grizzly cover and paddle on the Jet switch as the Jet buttons are larger. So I removed the Jet switch and installed the Grizzly switch only to find the Grizzly switch is deeper, the terminals were smaller, the distance between the cover screws closer together and smaller.

I think I would have been better off just buying Jet covers & paddles. Consider it a lesson learned.

Gary in San Diego

[Harley Reasons]

Got the new paddle switch in from Grizzly yesterday and installed it today. I fabricated a couple of mounting brackets for the plastic conduit box from some extra flat metal I had on hand (thanks to John Bateman for that idea). I tried it out and it works great.

[john bateman]

If you look at the picture of mine, you can see the ground wire attached to the aluminum bracket I made.

My original switch box was made of metal, and the green wire was affixed to the box, which grounded the whole saw through the rails and their fasteners.

I don't know if there is any code requirement for grounding the saw itself, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

[Harley Reasons]

If you look at the picture of mine, you can see the ground wire attached to the aluminum bracket I made.

My original switch box was made of metal, and the green wire was affixed to the box, which grounded the whole saw through the rails and their fasteners.

I don't know if there is any code requirement for grounding the saw itself, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Thanks again John, I didn't think about that. I just connected the two grounds together inside the box with a screw. I'll pull the switch back out and use a self drilling self taping screw and ground it to the brackets. :)