The Latest Shopnotes

[Greg Hines, MD]

Did anyone else find the table saw sled in Shopnotes as interesting as I did? That is an elegant way to make a table saw sled, and would be easily modified for those of us that have a "Norm-style" sled already.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/099/

Doc

[Lori Kleinberg]

Yes, I really like that style sled. I do not have any sleds for my new saw. I had been thinking of making the set up that Jim Tolpin used, but don't know if I need that much of a sled and all the attachments.

[Kyle Kraft]

I got the issue the other day and I think I will make a sled like that one, only for a left tilt saw. The only thing I'm concerned with is that I like the support that I get from my auxilliary table on the right side of my saw. If I make a mirror image version, there is little extra support on the left side of my saw.

[Jerome Hanby]

I like sleds with two runners, so I'm thinking about building one modified to run in both miter slots and have the zero clearance part slide back and forth within a properly sized "slot"

[Kyle Kraft]

That's a great idea. I could do that and keep my support on the right just like the one in the article.

[Lee Koepke]

I kind of skimmed thru the article ( if i read it, the magazine goes too fast :D )

The one thing I wish they would spend a little more time is squareing up the fence ... I really like the blade guard on the top. slick idea.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I got the issue the other day and I think I will make a sled like that one, only for a left tilt saw. The only thing I'm concerned with is that I like the support that I get from my auxilliary table on the right side of my saw. If I make a mirror image version, there is little extra support on the left side of my saw.


I use a Shopsmith, and would rather have the fixed part on the left side of the blade too, so I am going to make a mirror image too. But I am particularly interested in the adjustable zero clearance aspect of it.

Doc

[James Hart]

I hope this doesn't sound picky, but IMO the zero clearance part of this plan is questionable. Unless you're going to trim it a bit with each blade change, just butting it close to the blade won't give you the type of cut support on both sides of the blade that a true zci does.

Jim

[Dan Henry]

I think this sled has a lot of merit exceptionally as it can used with varying width of dado cuts, I have one cut out and working on putting it together. I have been using glued up BB ply wood (2) 1/2 AND (1) 1/4 glued up with a T slot to fit a toilet bolt 3 inches tall fence for many on my jigs and will use this on this sled.

Always a different way of a making better mouse trap.

Dan

[Randal Cobb]

I've already got all the materials to make one... just need a new saw to make it on and to :)

I plan on adjusting the moveable portion to the left of the blade slightly so it can be completely removed and replaced with a different one. That way, I can make one for 90 degree cross-cuts, one for 45 degree, etc. Just change the side piece, adjust the blade, I'm ready to cut. I notice David Marks has several different sleds, why not make only one with a removable piece that could potentially handle any angle?

[Jim Crockett]

I got the issue the other day and I think I will make a sled like that one, only for a left tilt saw. The only thing I'm concerned with is that I like the support that I get from my auxilliary table on the right side of my saw. If I make a mirror image version, there is little extra support on the left side of my saw.

I agree - my Craftsman JobSite Saw has a sliding extension on the right side, thus I get much more support there. So I would much rather have additional width of the sled on the right. Will have to look at the details again and see if I can figure a way to modify it so that I can leave it as is (no mirror image) and still utilize the zero-clearance aspect.

Jim

[Larry James]

... The one thing I wish they would spend a little more time is squareing up the fence ...

I agree, that is the critical part. The "rock solid fence" made of 3/4 ply and fastened with #8 x 1 1/4 screws through 1/2" ply may not be so rock solid. How do you keep that square - I think that has been the number one problem I have had with building sleds.

I have the Kreg fence track on one of my sleds and it works well.

Larry

[Brian Effinger]

I hope this doesn't sound picky, but IMO the zero clearance part of this plan is questionable. Unless you're going to trim it a bit with each blade change, just butting it close to the blade won't give you the type of cut support on both sides of the blade that a true zci does.

Jim

I was thinking that too - everytime you butt the adjustable side up to the blade, you'd shave a small amount off of it. I also didn't like the front "fence". It would limit you on the width of the lumber you could cut. It is a great design, but I think a few improvements could be made to it. When I get time I'll have to build one and see if it can be modified.

[Gary Warren]

I have a concept that I have be thinking about taken from the adjustable features of this sled in the article that will allow use of both miter slots and have a replaceable dovetail insert for use with any width dado blade. I will try and build it this weekend and post pictures if successful. I would not have thought of this until reading this article.

[Lee Koepke]

I agree, that is the critical part. The "rock solid fence" made of 3/4 ply and fastened with #8 x 1 1/4 screws through 1/2" ply may not be so rock solid. How do you keep that square - I think that has been the number one problem I have had with building sleds.

I have the Kreg fence track on one of my sleds and it works well.

Larry
I saw an article that slotted the screws on the end and let you pivot for adjustment. When I rebuild my sled, I may use 1 1/2" back fence and that may give it more stability and less chance of getting out of square. I have some mental images of fastening methods that I cant get on paper much less in a post :p .... If it works I will let yall know.

[Larry James]

I saw an article that slotted the screws on the end and let you pivot for adjustment. When I rebuild my sled, I may use 1 1/2" back fence and that may give it more stability and less chance of getting out of square. I have some mental images of fastening methods that I cant get on paper much less in a post :p .... If it works I will let yall know. If you can draw a sketch and describe basically what you have in mind, that mental image, I'll try to draw it in sketchup. Send me a PM if you like.

Larry

[Jerome Hanby]

I know you were mentioning it as a drawback, but if the adjustable part of the ZC were constructed so that the part that gets shaved on were easy to replace (and could be shaved a number of times before needing to be replaced) seems to me you would retain the benefits of the ZC you normally have with a crosscut sled, plus still be able to accommodate dado blades with out having to have a different insert for each width.


I was thinking that too - everytime you butt the adjustable side up to the blade, you'd shave a small amount off of it. I also didn't like the front "fence". It would limit you on the width of the lumber you could cut. It is a great design, but I think a few improvements could be made to it. When I get time I'll have to build one and see if it can be modified.