3/4-10 spindle

[steve denison]

Guys,

I got a lathe a few months back and have been excited about turning. to date I have only turned 3 bowls. I have an old Rockwell / Delta lathe that was basically given to me, and have been busy restoring it, building a stand, and making a jack shaft to slow it down. I did not have a faceplate for the lathe and it has a 3/4-10 thread on the spindle, so I made one with a 3/4-10 nut, JB weld, and a block of red oak. When the JB was dry I threaded it on to the spindle and turned it true. This faceplate worked well until last night when I was turning my first segmented vase (37 piece cherry and walnut) The JB cracked and the nut moved a little. Now the faceplate is not usable because the nut wobbles.

I have only found 2 places to order 3/4-10 faceplates. Grizley makes one with multiple center collers (one is 3/4-10) and Penn industries makes an adaptor for 3/4-10 to 1-8.

Do any of you use an adaptor for your faceplate? does it introduce wobble? Have any of you run into a similar problem? any ideas?

[Bob Way]

Would obtaining a 3/4-10 tap and making your own out of maple or some other close grained hardwood be an option?

[Norm Zax]

Buy 5 nuts, glue each into a recess or hole in 4-6" diameter - 3/4" thick wooden plates (choose hard woods such as maple), turn them round and drill a few holes in each. now youve got 5 face plates, enough to leave unfinished work on!
N.Z.

[Paul Heely]

Give Oneway a call, 1.800.565.7288. Their website says they will custom thread a faceplate for you.

--
Paul

[Clem Wixted]

This is how Darrell Feltmate does it:

http://aroundthewoods.com/gblock.shtml

[Matt Hutchinson]

I would go with a manufactured model. If you are turning bowls, you will be safer with a metal faceplate. No matter how small the bowl, if it's a homemade faceplate (that's not MIG welded) I think you're in danger of something stripping or coming apart/loose. Make the investment, and you will be able to whip off bowls without a care.

Hutch

[Paul Douglass]

I would go with a manufactured model. If you are turning bowls, you will be safer with a metal faceplate. No matter how small the bowl, if it's a homemade faceplate (that's not MIG welded) I think you're in danger of something stripping or coming apart/loose. Make the investment, and you will be able to whip off bowls without a care.

Hutch
Man I have to agree if you are going to turn anything of any size. You may get by with small stuff but why risk it on larger stuff. It's not just the injury, you heal, but a beautiful segmented bowl you are just about done with and there it goes flying accross the room.:eek::( Get one made...

[Russ Peters]

Instead of JB weld take it to a machine shop or auto shop in the area and have them weld it up. Bring a pen or two along and trade out for the work.

EDIT: Sorry I misread that it was onto a red oak block.

[Dennis Puskar]

I agree with Matt go with a manufactured one I think it would be a lot safer.

Dennis

[steve denison]

Thanks for all of the info guys. I ordered the spindle adapter last night from Penn industries from 3/4 - 10 to 1 - 8. Now all I need is a 1-8 faceplate. Should be easier to find.

Thanks!

[Gordon Seto]

Do you have a chuck? If yes, you may consider the faceplate ring like this:
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Faceplate.htm
They are not spindle size specific; they won't be obsolete when you upgrade your lathe. They cost less than a comparable quality faceplate.
I think money you put into this odd size spindle may be hard to recoup.
I use it because I don't have to remove it immediately upon reversing the blank. I can still use the tailstock for support and flip the blank back and forth to refine the shape.