Howdy turners, did some playing today and have a question.

[Ben Cadotte]

I cut a maple tree down in Nov. Today before the rain came I cut up some pieces for fire wood. So I went into the shop and was playing with my worksharp. I have a set of the better HF 8 piece lathe tool set. So I sharpened up a couple and decided to give my sharpening a try. So I went out and grabbed a new log.

Well after playing for about an hour low and behold a nice maple chisel mallet was forming right in front of me. So I finished it up and now have a nice hardwood striking mallet, about 4 1/2" dia striking head by 12" long.

Question is, the wood is still somewhat wet. Can I keep the new mallet from splitting while it continues to dry?? Just started out fooling around but did nice enough job I would like to keep it.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

[curtis rosche]

DNA...... or seal it and hope for the best

[Matt Hutchinson]

That diameter of blank could take 4 yrs to dry completely. Short of sealing it and waiting a long time, DNA is probably the best short term option. It won't get completely dry, but after the DNA air dries out of it, resand it, and put a finish on it. Yeah, it's a mallet, but finishing might be a sort of insurance against it continuing to dry too fast. Of course, this is all a guess.

Hutch

[curtis rosche]

if you epoxy finish it, just cover with epoxy, it will make a harder surface and as long as no spots are missed it cant crack, and the wetness will add a little extra weight to it

[Scott Hubl]

Ben
I just did a WET mallet a few weeks ago.
I followed Kip Christensen's advice. (one of the guys famous for their Pen books and DVD's) Rex and Kip have a NEW set of Project DVD's out now and Kip turns a Carvers Mallet very Green and he says to coat it very thick and heavy with paste wax."which hopefully will seal the pours so that it does not crack as it dries." "Leave it on good and heavy for a few weeks so the mallet can cure without cracking." Then rub/buff it off.
So far mine isnt showing signs of cracking. It has been about a month now.

It will warp, but Kip says he likes that in a mallet, as it keeps them from easily rolling off a bench and that is why he likes turning them out of Green(Wet) wood.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/4-2.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/1-2.jpg

[Jim Underwood]

How about boiling it in liquid soap solution, and drying it in the microwave?

[Jon McCoy]

How about boiling it in liquid soap solution, and drying it in the microwave?
Don't forget to drink some alcohol, until you're denatured.

[Paul Douglass]

Don't forget to drink some alcohol, until you're denatured.

Even as old as I am I don't want to be "denatured" yet!!:eek:

[Reed Gray]

Boiling would work: bring up to a boil, and boil 1 hour per inch of thickness, and allow to cool in the water. Then seal and let it dry. I have never heard of boiling in LDD, sounds like some thing interesting. You could also microwave it as well: short bursts 30 to 60 seconds max at medium settings, allowing it to cool off some what between sessions. If you are going to air dry, then I would suggest finishing it. My preference would be a penetrating oil (I like Deftoil), and even go so far as to soak it for a couple of days. As always, some woods will dry better than others.
robo hippy