dimensioning lumber

[Michael Handrinos]

What thickness in lumber do you usually start with to get 7/8 ? I have alot of 4/4 that is relatively flat, so there won't be much other then a skimming cut through the planer. I think I can get a good yeild from it.

What do you think?

Thanks

Mike

[Jason Beam]

sometimes 4/4 - if it doesn't warp too much in drying, can yield 7/8 or even 15/16 ... but it's kinda unusual.

5/4 will give you better odds of reaching 7/8 thickness in a wider range of rough board quality.

[alex grams]

Concur with Jason. It would have to be unusually flat 4/4 to get 7/8. Especially if you want to get good lumber with any length to it.

[Tom Veatch]

Depends a great deal on the finished size (length/width) of the final piece. The closer to finished length/width you can cut the rough lunber, the better your chance of getting 7/8 clean from 4/4 rough. If the finished dimensions are near the rough dimensions, you'll have to have near perfect rough stock to keep 7/8 finished thickness.

I just finished milling some 4/4 white oak (various widths x 8') to 7/8 thickness, but my finished pieces were 4 1/2 x 33". So, cutting the pieces to near final size from the rough pieces let me get to the 7/8 thickness without having to do much more than just clean off the surfaces.

One good thing about long pieces is that, depending on how you plan to use it, thickness may be more important than perfect longitudinal straightness since, the longer the piece, the more it can be moved/straightened in assembly.

Good luck.

[Paul Simmel]

Yeah, it really does depend on what lengths and what they will be used for. If they will be used for longer door styles, for example, something which will not be tied into something else and need to sit free and straight, you may be lucky to get 7/8”. If you are talking about just planing everything out just to get it clean, then 7/8” will be no problem.

Edit: Tom has it right on all accounts. Also, I’d just add for your edification, Michael, to not plane up the whole batch for the sake of it. Sorry if this sounds condescending or presumptuous. Chances are you know this very well, and if so I apologize. Reading your post at face value, though, it at least appears you may have it in your head to plane it all up. If you do, you’re going to hate yourself in the morning! (smile)

[Richard M. Wolfe]

It seems everyone pretty much concurs. If it's really flat stuff 4/4 can work. But for just about everything, especially long boards, I wouldn't plan on it. Not too long ago I planed a nice pile of stuff I was going to use for a chest of drawers and had a few boards that still had a rough spot here and there. I got by with it by sanding the spots and then turning the rough spots to the inside of the carcase. But....it was 4/4 but I was planing to 3/4, and like I said even then had a rough spot here and there. I'd start with 5/4 and quite possibly save yourself some headaches.

P.S. - Hope you got the Byrd head in OK.

[Johnny Kleso]

The 4/4 mahogany I bought rough was 1 1/16" and finishs at 7/8" if you watch what you do..

[Michael Handrinos]

Thanks for all the replies. I was going to cut the lumber to rough length and width, then machine it. Just what I think I'll need for the project at hand. Most of the stock is very flat. It justs needs some clean up.

Hopefully, I didn't paint myself into a corner here. I'm still learning and this might be one of those times. LOL

Thanks for the help.

Mike