Peppermill health question

[Shane Sura]

Two quick and easy question. I turned a peppermill about three months ago. When finished I used Sanding sealer then Danish Oil to finish it on both the inside (as far as I could reach) and outside. First question is will this pose any health risks? I pulled the finishing technique from "Woodturning a Foundation Course" and did not think anything about it as he said he used that technique on any food items. The second question is what is everyone's favorite/recommended cleaning methods?

Thanks,

Shane

[Robert McGowen]

Hi Shane,

Most any finish within reason is fine for food once it has completely cured. You should have no problems with the Danish Oil. I do not think that the Danish Oil actually provides that much protection for the wood though, so I would just wipe it off with a damp cloth. Just my $.02 worth.

[robert hainstock]

If the finish agent cure chemicly, then it is probably safe. Oils do not cure. Therefore should be avoided. :eek::):)
Bob

[Shane Sura]

Bump-----Anyone else? Two conflicting responses so far I am at a loss. I re-read the Foundation book again and he clearly spells out using Danish Oil for anything that would be in contact with food.


Shane

[Frank Parker]

In the spring 2008 issue of American woodturner their is a very good article on food safe finishes, it talks about some of the myths concerning clear finishes. Danish oil uses a metal drying agent. (The drier is totally encased in the crosslinked finish once it has cured. Even if you were to eat a chip of a clear finish, it would simply pass through your system like any other plastic material, without causing harm) A quote from the article.
Hope this helps.
Frank

[Jason Roehl]

If the finish agent cure chemicly, then it is probably safe. Oils do not cure. Therefore should be avoided. :eek::):)
Bob

But there are plenty of oils that do cure chemically--Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, Danish Oil, and a host of other oil concoctions. Incidentally, the oils that do cure (due, in part, to the addition of metallic drying agents) are the ones that are dangerous when one leaves a pile of rags laying around soaked with them--these are the ones that cause spontaneous-combustion fires. You could leave a pile of rags soaked in motor oil or mineral oil and nothing would happen because the oil does not cure. Do the same with Danish Oil-soaked rags, and you'll have a nice little fire in no time.

As long as the finish cures, it is food-safe.

[Bob Hallowell]

I don't know about the danish oil I spray shellac on the inside of all my mills to seal them.

Bob

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ernie Conover said he uses Minwax Antique Oil on all his utilities items. He said if you can't smell the finish it is food safe. There was another article which I can't remember where I read it just now but said that you should sniff your piece after it has dried for a while. If you can't smell the finish it is ok for food. I don't put any finish on the inside as I have read it is not recommended and not needed. I also use General Finishes Seal-A-Cell and then Arm-R-Seal on a lot of my salt/pepper mills and bowls.