New Monster Tool Gloat

[Steve Schlumpf]

I’ve been wanting to add a carbide cutter to my hollowing rig ever since they came out. They are listed in the major catalogs but I have always been put off by the price.

Monster Tool just came out with their version and is it ever sweet! It’s a dished carbide cutter on a hex shaft that allows you to use the cutter for shear cuts or rotate and use as a scraper! I just finished using the cutter for the first time and I am really happy with it!

First photo shows the tool and also the inside of the lip of the hollow form. That area (the inside of the lip) was shear cut with the new cutter and I honestly do not have to sand – but if I wanted to, I could start at 320 or 400 grit!

Second photo shows what kind of curlies you can get when shear cutting the inside! The only problem I had was not with the tool – the size of the opening of the form limited the reach of the 45* holder.

87021 87022

If you are into hollowing – I highly recommend you check out Monster’s new cutter.

Photo of the cutter on Monster’s website is here: http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/wst_page6.html (http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/wst_page6.html)

It is the bottom right photo of the MHF/MAP II Combo.

[David Newson]

Steve ! that's a great looking tool, is the cutter what a lot of people refer to as a cup cutter, ring cutter, ?

Looking forward to seeing some more of your excellent work made with that monster tool.

David
__________________________________________________ ___________
Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dave - I've only known this type of tool refered to as a carbide cutter but I could see how it could be considered a cup cutter. A ring cutter - to me, is the one designed for end grain work - something like the 'Termite' tools that are in the catalogs.

I just finished the form that was included in the cutter photos and hope to be able to post it later today.

[David Newson]

Steve - I recently got the Woodcut hollowing set as Christmas present from my good lady, and at the moment not used it extensively , I find the cutter heads work really well with no clogging with nice ribbon shavings coming off, but I'm struggling a bit with the optional scraper the partially round and the tear drop one, even with a real delicate touch I've still had some catches.

Wonder if you can point me in the right direction to avoid these catches, the black piece of ash I recently done was not to bad, but the current project I'm just finishing for my local club competition, has proved to be very difficult with lots of internal sanding, the wood in question is Yew could it just be some woods just behave to the scraper differently.

David
__________________________________________________ __________________
Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

[Burt Alcantara]

David,
Scrapers inside of a hollow form are somewhat difficult to control. Rather then devote the time to this you may want to consider learning to make smooth cuts with your main cutter. Lightly run your cutting head back over the past few inches to smooth down the ridges. Once you get the hang of it your insides will be nice and even. At that point, you may want to go directly to the carbide cutter.

Advise from a rank beginner.
Burt

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dave - I pretty much do as Burt suggested - I use the cutters as much as possible and then I would switch over and do a couple of light passes with a scraper. Now that I have the carbide cutter - I will go directly to that for any cleanup.

Scrapers - especially the style of the one you described - are very prone to catches. Course, you always want to keep the cutter as close to the centerline as possible but a couple of things to consider on your scraper is the amount of cutting surface that comes in contact with the turning and the angle of the scraper's edge - the more acute the angle - the more it can dig right in. The carbide has very limited cutting edge exposed to the surface of the turning - which in turn acts as a governor by restricting the amount of wood it can cut/scrape. Just something to consider.

Like everything else - these are just my opinions based on what I have learned. Someone with al ittle more experience may be able to suggest a way to control the scraper in question.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I pretty much have had the same experience with scrapers inside HF's. I got to where I would take very light cuts and I do mean light. Several passes to take the ridges down. I got the same cutter that Steve has shown a month or so ago with the rest of my monster articulating arm unit. As Steve said you can start sanding at 240 to 320 to finish up the inside. It is probably the best addition Randy has made to this tool. I have the hunter tool with basically the same cutter that I use on the inside of bowls, goblets, etc. and it leaves the same smooth surface.

[Bob Hallowell]

Thanks guys just called Randy and ordered one.

Bob

[Dick Strauss]

Steve,
Is Randy's carbide tool available ala carte?

I refuse to pay $70 for a little carbide cutter and mount that doesn't include a handle or boring bar.

[David Newson]

Thanks Bert, Steve and Bernie for your advise regarding the scraper etc, probably with a bit more getting the feel of using the woodcut hollow tools and maybe adjusting the cutter to a finer finishing cut, I originally left the setup of the cutter blade to moderately coarser cut, which left a few ridges here and there, and as Bernie stated its a bit of a job to find the sweet spot with the scraper tool inside HFs.

They say practice make perfect so for now I'll keep trying and master the woodcut tools and use a more delicate cut. Thanks.

David
__________________________________________________ _______________
Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

[Steve Schlumpf]

Just found out that Randy added the carbide cutter to this page so it can be ordered separately. It's at the end of the page - Notice the price!

http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/wst_page7.html

[robert hainstock]

Steve showed me the cutter the day he recieved it, and the inside of the latest HF. It is going to do a super job. The biggest trick to the HF is the reverse cut, (lip side). any time you have a tool bit stuck out to the side, torqye can and will cause catches. The "Monster" pretty well eliminates this with a substantial well engineered tool holder. If I was twenty years younger, I would already be using one. :)
Bob

[Bob Hallowell]

I ordered mine yesterday. I will be trying it soon

Bob