Power feeders and Table saw

[Dave Norris]

Hi All,
First, I'd like to thank everyone for being such a great resource on the Creek. Over the past several months I've been very thankful to have gotten great information.

To my question... I've been using a power feeder on my shaper, and have been very pleased with the results. Much safer, much better cuts. I'm thinking very much about adding a powerfeeder to my table saw, and in fact, I think I'm going to give the shaper feeder a trial run on the saw sometime in the next couple days. Any tips or thoughts on feeders for the TS before I make the switch? I think the main thing that has to be considered is not limiting my ability to make cuts on the TS, like if I need to cut a couple inches off the edge of piece of plywood for instance. I think another consideration before buying will need to be horsepower and the "swing" of the arm on the feeder. The one for my shaper will overall be too small for a lot of needs I think.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[Greg Funk]

I occasionally mount my powerfeeder on the tablesaw when I want to cut a bunch of narrow strips. I wouldn't leave it on all the time as it really limits the size of wood you can cut and doesn't work for crosscuts or sheet goods.

You have more flexibility on the shaper as it easy to mount the powerfeeder on one side of the fence since the fence doesn't move much. Many tablesaw fences move up to 50" so there is no convenient place to mount the powerfeeder.

Unless you have a dedicated tablesaw for ripping and you do a lot of it I wouldn't buy a separate feeder for the tablesaw. Just move the feeder you already have when you need it.

Greg

[Brad Shipton]

I agree with Greg. I have a combination saw/shaper and the PF flips under the table when not needed. I use the PF on the saw when ripping large runs of solid stock and it makes sense to spend the time to set it up. Most of the time it is hanging waiting for shaping tasks.

Brad

[Travis Porter]

My only comment is that you have to be careful with your fence on the tablesaw. Shaper fences are normally much more stout and better secured than say a Biesemeyer type fence for example. If you get it secured, or yours locks front and back, go for it.

[Peter Quinn]

Powermatic and some other companies make an outboard fence lock for using power feeders on the TS. I use a stout block screwed or clamped to the out feed table to keep mine from toeing out.

I have never used less than a 1HP feeder with a TS but have been told a 1/2HP will handle all but the most demanding tasks, and even a 1/4HP feeder will do many things if the arm is long enough to reach. I have only one feeder shared by the TS and shaper. It sits primarily on the shaper and only gets moved (using a rolling cart) for longer runs where the setup time makes sense. I can easily move it alone with out difficulty. Mine bolts to the left wing of the saw (PM66 with 50" rails) and does not interfere with ripping much but does limit cross cutting width.

I guess if it is to become a permanent fixture you should look into some type of swing arm set up or a rolling cart. Mine takes about 10 minutes to move, 5 minutes to remove, 5 to put on the next machine.

If you are to bolt it to the machine I highly recommend threading the iron table if that is within your ability rather than drilling through holes and using bolts with nuts and lock washers. It makes a much more secure connection that is quicker to attach and remove.

[Brad Shipton]

I mounted a mag switch to the end of my TS fence too. If you do look at mountings other than a rigid connections to the TS keep in mind that there is a very good reason the feeders have very stiff tubes and columns compared to their relative small size. Any movement of the attachments or mounting translates into small movements during feeding either at the infeed or outfeed. These lead to stock imperfections. I learned this through experimentation when building a wall mount to use mine with the jointer. One fellow has posted his floor mount to share a PF between two machines on the woodweb. Very signficant structure.

Brad

[Greg Funk]

If you don't want to mess up your table top you can always screw it to the ceiling.

http://www.woodweb.com/images_forums_public/swmf/80316213045.JPG

[Joe Chritz]

I know a person who makes many thousand of feet of trim every year and I have seen his workers running a feeder on a tablesaw a lot.

I don't know how many you would have to run to make it worth while but even a baby feeder would probably work well.

Biggest advantage I see is the same benefits as feather boards without having to worry about stock size going in. That and no fingers near a blade.

I keep thinking about swapping my baby feeder to the saw for ripping FF pieces and stile/rails sometimes.

Joe

[David DeCristoforo]

"...you can always screw it to the ceiling..."

Holy Crap!!! That's... well that's... Uh... I mean...well.... that's.... uhh very creative? I'm almost at a loss for words....:eek:

[Dave Norris]

Oh that is cool as heck... Now I'll spend the next two years working on something like that!! I call that "building infra-structure", my wife calls it "fiddle faddling".

I like the idea of clamping the outboard fence to the table too. I can see that as a definite "must" I hadn't thought about. Thanks!

[Brad Shipton]

Greg, thats very cool. Thanks for the idea. Heres the one I built for my jointer.

Bradhttp://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj176/Brad805/DSC01309-sm.jpg

[Karl Brogger]

I was kicking around the idea of welding up a cart to bolt a powerfeeder to then some sort of way to make it wheel up and bolt or clamp onto the table saw. What got me thinking about that was I figured I could just wheel the shaper over and clamp that to the tablesaw as an easy attempt. Mounting it to the ceiling is pretty crazy, (in a good way), thinking.

A power feed on a table saw when ripping alot face frame, or door stick material is super nice. Especially with two people. With a pitcher and a catcher you can get a alot done in a hurry. Poor man's ripsaw.

How much of a concern would it be for having a fence that doesn't lock on the backside? It sounds like a better setup obviously, but I've started running feeders at much shallower angles than I used too and have gotten better working results as an outcome.

[Tom Hargrove]

I think the biggest challenge will be the fence. When I worked in a production shop, we often used a feeder on table saws. However, the factory fences were not up to the task with a feeder. First, they were too tall, and got in the way when we ripped narrow strips. They also would flex or would move after an hour or so of sawing. So, we ended up using a homemade fence which was nothing more than a squared up piece of hard maple held in place with big "F" clamps.

We also used the feeder on a jointer, but our set up was not nearly as nice as Brad's.

[Dave Norris]

For some reason I can't see Brad's jointer picture. It's just a little box with an "x" on it in red

[Jeff Eiber]

I've been using a 1/4 hp power feeder supported from the ceiling on my tablesaw for 3+ years. The support is fabricated from a steel tube and angle and is bolted to the ceiling joists. My fence locks at both the front and back so movement of the fence is not a problem and I agree with the previous posts that a rigid fence is required for use with a power feeder.

Although setting up for cuts takes longer with the feeder I'm only doing this for a hobby and really prefer having all my fingers. If I did it again I would buy a 1/2hp or larger feeder.

[Jerry Hankins]

While this is an old thread and topic, figured I add to it (together) with a photo.

First, I love stock feeders. I think they're a "must have" in a shop if you own a shaper.

Have 4 Maggi Steff 1-HP, 3-PH, feeders in the shop now; (3) 3 wheel paired with 3 different shapers and (1) 4 wheel on one of two the table saws. We did try "sharing" a feeder with a shaper and a table saw. Made a mobile base for it to roll up to and secure to Shaper or TS. While it worked, it was a PITA and ended up buying another feeder.

So wanted the capability of pulling through full 3/4" Ply or MDF sheets to Rip, but with the stock feeder arm only measuring about 28" total, there's not enough to make it possible. Then do they offer a 1000mm overall replacement support arm, but that still wouldn't be ideal ... especially given the cost.

So came up with a Plan "B". Let's add 24" TO the stock 28" arm and push the support base out as far as possible. Wa-La... it works.

Made up a somewhat hefty base to anchor the feeder base to. It's made from 6" tubular steel with a 1/4" steel base plate anchored to the concrete floor. There's also a diagonal arm and mounting plate to help with the cantilevered weight. The factory feeder base is securely bolted into a threaded steel top plate. The factory support arm received a 24" extension by turning a solid steel slug for the interior of both original and added tube, then plug welded, then perimeter welded and ground down. The I.D.'s of the two materials were not the same. What we added way more precise and true than the factory support arm. The end result ... it works well. The new (about 52" OAL arm) allows for over 36" of cutting right of the saw blade. The experiment/task has been a huge help. One PS if wondered/asked. Opted not to make a mount from the ceiling down given the ceilings are over 14-foot high. Wasn't practical, nor desired.370652

[Warren Lake]

mine was on the ceiling as well, worked well, I had it on a track I didnt have to adjust it and turn the handle to move it side to side just slide it on the track then clamp it there. Thought about the roll around thing also mentioned here and placing machines 90 to each other so one feeder swivelled to other machines.

[Rod Sheridan]

Here's a shot of my wife Diann rebating French Cleats for her garden shed, on the saw.

The feeder does a great job, perfect results with no tooling marks because the speed is constant as is the downward pressure and pressure against the fence.

In addition it keeps your fingers safe.

I also use the feeder on the shaper and jointer................Regards, Rod.

370671

[Bill Dufour]

I suppose you could use the pipe mounted feeder as a dust collection run.
Bill

[Rick Alexander]

I have a 1 HP Delta feeder I share between the table saw and shaper. I first had it on the table saw (before I owned the 3 HP shaper stout enough to support it). I don't rip my ply on the TS preferring to use a version of track saw for that (I find it less stressful and more accurate). For face frames and rails and styles it's the bomb for sure. absolutely the most accurate and safest way to cut a bunch of 2, 2.5, and 1.5 rips of solid wood I've ever worked with. I just determine how much of each width for the whole job - cut it all at once and then move it back to the shaper. I have two mounts as well and pretty much leave the mount on the TS all the time to speed up the transfer. I just get my son to help me move it because it is heavy (>100 lbs) but it takes every bit of 2 minutes to move this way. I very rarely need to rip anything wider than 19 inches - which is the limit when the mount is in place - so it works for me great. Not all that happy with the stock wheels on the Delta but they do make replacements - just haven't done it yet. You do need a very stout fence when doing this so it doesn't flex under the stress of the feeder but a clamp or two on the fence to make sure the back end stays put is good insurance.

[Bob Vaughan]

Just for grins, here's some shots of an old time feeder made specifically for the table saw fence. It can be mounted on the shaper, but its somewhat awkward and requires a special fence. Stock thickness is obviously limited. The one pictured is my second one that I made from a broken one. This King E-Z Safety Feed has served me well over the years. It was offered in either a two roller or four roller version.

370826

370827

Guard removed so the inner workings are exposed.

370828

Table mount. It will go out to about 20" from the fence.

370829