Kitchen Drawer Question

[Carl Fox]

Hi,

I often see Nahm use a 1/4" floating bottom for drawers. I assume this is because whole wood is not entirely dimensionally stable.

However, if I were to build my drawers entirely out of 3/8", (or 1/2" for the big ones) non-borg maple plywood could I glue the drawers solid and not worry about movement?

I plan on having the corners dovetailed.

I plan on using under-drawer, full extension sliders, if that matters.

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/24999-01-200.jpg

[Joe Jensen]

Floating bottoms are only necessary for solid wood bottoms. The sides and face will move very little in thickness or length. No problem glueing the bottom is you use plywood of MDF...joe

[Carl Fox]

Floating bottoms are only necessary for solid wood bottoms. The sides and face will move very little in thickness or length. No problem glueing the bottom is you use plywood of MDF...joe

Thx,

This is good news. I figure that my drawers will me much stronger this way. Also, no little 'rattle' from the bottom.

[Jeff Wright]

Somthing to consisder: Gluing the bottoms will prevent you from replacing the bottoms later if they get marred from use. I think that is why the old timers designed the drawer back to allow the bottom to be attached to the back's underside edge with a tack or screw. This permitted them to remove the bottom and install a new one.

[Carl Fox]

Somthing to consisder: Gluing the bottoms will prevent you from replacing the bottoms later if they get marred from use. I think that is why the old timers designed the drawer back to allow the bottom to be attached to the back's underside edge with a tack or screw. This permitted them to remove the bottom and install a new one.

Hmm, this makes sense. However, has anyone actually done this?

[Karl Brogger]

Make sure your drawer is square before gluing. I assemble my drawers, clamp them, then square them up and just nail the bottoms in.

Another good way to go is to square them up and hot glue the bottoms in. Do this after it is assembled obviously, and only glue the front and back of the drawer box. If you do the sides it will raise problems with the undermount slides.

[Lee Schierer]

Somthing to consisder: Gluing the bottoms will prevent you from replacing the bottoms later if they get marred from use. I think that is why the old timers designed the drawer back to allow the bottom to be attached to the back's underside edge with a tack or screw. This permitted them to remove the bottom and install a new one.I'm 58 and have been woodworking for more than 38 years and have only ever replaced one or two drawer bottoms in that time that I can recall. I have had to repair lots of drawers on the back so the bottom doesn't sag. When I make drawers, they have all four sides the same height and a groove captures the plywood bottom on four sides. I feel this gives the drawer bottom the most support. All four corners are dovetailed.

If and when the bottom ever needs to be replaced it would be a simple matter to cut out the bottom edge on the back and slide out the bottom panel to make a new one.

[David Duke]

I'm 58 and have been woodworking for more than 38 years and have only ever replaced one or two drawer bottoms in that time that I can recall. I have had to repair lots of drawers on the back so the bottom doesn't sag. When I make drawers, they have all four sides the same height and a groove captures the plywood bottom on four sides. I feel this gives the drawer bottom the most support. All four corners are dovetailed.

If and when the bottom ever needs to be replaced it would be a simple matter to cut out the bottom edge on the back and slide out the bottom panel to make a new one.

Same here only I'm just a young pup of 50 :D:D .