Chainsaw chain sharpeners

[Bob Rufener]

I am considering buying a sharpener for chains for chainsaws. I haven't had any experience except with hand file sharpening. I am wondering if anyone has experience with these sharpeners and what your recommendations might be. I don't want to buy a cheap junky unit and would rather pay more and get something that is going to do a good job and will last. Thanks for your help

[Keith Carscadden]

There is an attachment for a Dremel to help sharpen chain saw blades. The attachment helps to get the angle correct, and uses grind stones to do the actual sharpening. The size of the stone depends on the chain.


Keith

[Jason Roehl]

Better is the "miter-saw-esque" grinders with the pink friable wheels. Mine is a Little Nicky (I think that's the name) that I bought from Harbor Freight for about $80. They've since switched to a cheap, Chinese knock-off that sells for half that. But it may still do the job. I've had excellent success with mine, but it can't remove large amounts of damaged tooth. It is excellent if you use it right after you notice the performance of a chain start to drop (best time to sharpen anyway--less material to remove, less time wasted trying to use a dull chain).

Here's the HF cheapie, you can get pro setups that start at $300 and go to the moon:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213

I guess it's even less than half...

[David G Baker]

I have done mine by hand and file since I started using a chain saw. It doesn't take me any time at all to sharpen mine by hand plus I don't have AC when I am out cutting trees and the teeth get dull.

[Joe Chritz]

I'm a hand sharpener myself.

Just make sure to do it often and it only take a couple strokes per tooth.

I haven't had much experience with the consumer level sharpening tools but the principle is pretty simple so I expect they work well.

Joe

[Greg Narozniak]

Hand Filing is the way to go unless your a Pro or can pick up a Grinder on the cheap.

It takes me less than 10 minutes to sharpen an 18" chain and it cuts like new when I'm done. On the Stihl chains I use there is an engraved angle line on each tooth and I just follow that angle with the file and a few swipes and your on to the next one. Nice and easy. After a few hand filings you have to remember to hit the rakers with a flat file so the chain bites correctly.

I have a few extra chains that are always ready to go in case I go dull while doing a job or for the end when your working on a stump because you will end up hitting the dirt and that dulls a chain faster than anything.

Just remember that the files only work on the push stroke and you will ruin a file if you push and pull. DAMHIK. :)

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I put a 10" steel abrasive blade in my old school table saw.
With the blade off the chain saw I hold it against the abrasive wheel at the angle I want flip it doing the other side and it's done fast and easy.
I've tried the files, the dremel, you name it there is nothing so fast and easy as an abrasive wheel. AND it knocks off those annoying and worthless anti-kick back lugs so I can make the saw actually cut as fast as I expect it to cut.

[Jason Roehl]

For those that advocate hand filing: how many of you would hand-sharpen your table saw blades? While a chainsaw is used for rough cutting, it is still very much a precision cutting tool--that's why the rakers are set to 0.025" below the cutting teeth on most chains. You can't eyeball that. Jigs and machines for sharpening...

[Jim O'Dell]

I've got the Dremel attachment myself. Works good, easy to use, and cheap if you already have the Dremel. I use a cordless unit. Have only used it once, but the saw cut like buttah after I finished. And the price is right. Cost is between 10 and 15.00. Has a couple different bits and guides for the different angle and size gullets. Jim.

[Brad Schmid]

Bob,

The Oregon 511A is pretty much the defacto standard for relatively inexpensive (~$330) bench mount chain grinders that do a good job. There are some even lesser expensive knockoffs of the 511A that with some modification can be quite good (Northern Tool ~$99 comes to mind...). Do a search over on Arboristsite if you want all the gory details ;) Personally, I like to hand file (cutters and rakers with a jig) unless I rock out a chain, then only the grinder will do.
Cheers,

[Butch Edwards]

For those that advocate hand filing: how many of you would hand-sharpen your table saw blades? While a chainsaw is used for rough cutting, it is still very much a precision cutting tool--that's why the rakers are set to 0.025" below the cutting teeth on most chains. You can't eyeball that. Jigs and machines for sharpening...

they make a flat-file guide for that,but you only need to use it every other sharpening. I like using power sharpeners,'cuz I'm tired of hand-filing...as for precision, they're less critical to exactness than a TS blade, as I've never ran my TS blade into a hidden nail/barb wire/ enclosed rocks,or one of a thousand potential chain dullers you find while clearing fence rows....;)

[Greg Narozniak]

For those that advocate hand filing: how many of you would hand-sharpen your table saw blades? While a chainsaw is used for rough cutting, it is still very much a precision cutting tool--that's why the rakers are set to 0.025" below the cutting teeth on most chains. You can't eyeball that. Jigs and machines for sharpening...

I see your point but I do not expect a glue line cut from my chainsaw as I do on my tablesaw. The grinders may be faster but they are no more accurate then a file when done properly, it really does not need to be. My Experience and as usual your mileage may vary.

[James Suzda]

What the heck Bob, you couldn't find a table saw so you got a chain saw instead to make your fine woodworking cuts?
You might want to look at Northern Tool and Equipment for a sharpener. They have several different price ranges and I suppose quality.

[Jason Roehl]

I switched to pro chain years ago, and once I got the grinder wheel, I found accuracy DOES matter--I could sharpen my chains better than the local shops, and a well-sharpened chain cuts more efficiently, vibrates less and causes less fatigue. If I can keep it out of the dirt and other chain-eaters, I can get 6-8 hours (actual run time) out of a sharpening on my Husqy 372xp with 20" bar.

My point about the TS blades is that the chain is moving through the wood at about the same speed--which is pretty fast. "Balance" comes to mind...

[Al Willits]

For me it would depend on how much cutting I was going to do, when I was cutting 10-15+ cords a year I had about 6 blades and would hand sharpen them maybe two or three times then bring them in to the lawncare store and he'd use his machine to bring back to specs, cost me three bucks a chain (cash) and I'd be go to go again.

If I was cutting more, I'd buy a good powered sharpening tool, carrying multiple blades removes the needing AC power on the site.

Al

[Brent Ring]

Does anyone know the correct type of file for sharpening chains, and have a quick pic they could upload?

[Dennis Peacock]

My point about the TS blades is that the chain is moving through the wood at about the same speed--which is pretty fast. "Balance" comes to mind...

I've read where the blade tip speed on a TS is 150 MPH....so yea...pretty fast indeed. :D

I hand sharpen and wish I had a setup where I could "get the world right" after a few hand sharpenings.

My deal with my level of hand sharpening is that my chain nevers cuts as good as it did when I just purchased the chain....so I guess I'm missing some part of the "technique". :o
Don't get me wrong...it does cut well when I'm done sharpening, but just not as good as it did new out of the box.

[Greg Cole]

If I can keep it out of the dirt and other chain-eaters.

The "secret" has been let out of the bag..... ;)

Hand file has worked for me for years now, and I grew up sharpening chains for lumberjack uncles til I was big enough to ride on the skidders and help load out logs on the cherry picker. To say I sharpened alot of chains is an understatement.

Greg

[Butch Edwards]

Does anyone know the correct type of file for sharpening chains, and have a quick pic they could upload?

round files of varying sizes for different size chain ...mainly(correct me here) 5/32" and (is it) 13/64"..????

[Brad Schmid]

Does anyone know the correct type of file for sharpening chains, and have a quick pic they could upload?

Pferd files, or the double cut swiss chain files from Stihl are what I use. I like the Stihl files best.

Flat for the rakers, usually round for the cutters (unless you square grind your chains)

In general:
.325 chain pitch = 3/16 file dia.
3/8 chain pitch = 13/64 file dia.
.404 chain pitch = 7/32 file dia.

Cheers

BTW - These are the most common chain pitches. There are some smaller pitch chains too that may require a 5/32 file dia. ....And some even bigger ones that not many are likely to have....;)

[Nathan Hawkes]

:eek:
Pferd files, or the double cut swiss chain files from Stihl are what I use. I like the Stihl files best.

Flat for the rakers, usually round for the cutters (unless you square grind your chains)

In general:
.325 chain pitch = 3/16 file dia.
3/8 chain pitch = 13/64 file dia.
.404 chain pitch = 7/32 file dia.

Cheers

BTW - These are the most common chain pitches. There are some smaller pitch chains too that may require a 5/32 file dia. ....And some even bigger ones that not many are likely to have....;)



Ditto that, and I think you had mentioned the Northern Tool grinder that's a copy of the Oregon model? I have that grinder, and with the exception of the clamping mechanism, its a great grinder. The HF "chicago" cheapie is a joke; I saw it in the HF in Richmond. Anyway, the Northern grinder is great, as long as you're careful to clamp it securely. Once you sharpen a few chains, its really fast as well. I use my 394XP to mill with, and sharpening a 32" or 42" chain gets old quick. Watch for sales and you can usually find the Northern grinder for $85 or so. Its worth it if you do a lot of sawing. And, as someone mentioned, its a lifesaver if you rock out a chain, or hit metal. :( :eek: :mad: . I like the Pferd files too. Any tips on how to keep them from loading up? I honestly hadn't checked if they are double or single cut, but they seem to fill up quicker than the stihl files. They are a heck of a lot cheaper, so it hasn't really mattered, just curious.

[Brad Schmid]

:eek:



Ditto that, and I think you had mentioned the Northern Tool grinder that's a copy of the Oregon model? I have that grinder, and with the exception of the clamping mechanism, its a great grinder. The HF "chicago" cheapie is a joke; I saw it in the HF in Richmond. Anyway, the Northern grinder is great, as long as you're careful to clamp it securely. Once you sharpen a few chains, its really fast as well. I use my 394XP to mill with, and sharpening a 32" or 42" chain gets old quick. Watch for sales and you can usually find the Northern grinder for $85 or so. Its worth it if you do a lot of sawing. And, as someone mentioned, its a lifesaver if you rock out a chain, or hit metal. :( :eek: :mad: . I like the Pferd files too. Any tips on how to keep them from loading up? I honestly hadn't checked if they are double or single cut, but they seem to fill up quicker than the stihl files. They are a heck of a lot cheaper, so it hasn't really mattered, just curious.

I agree, as with your 394xp, the 42" chain for my MS660 can get to be just plain old WORK:( by hand compared to the short ones. The Pferd files are a standard spiral cut file, work good, and are cheaper, but I agree on that too; they load up faster than the double cut Stihl and I don't think they cut as fast. I have no magic bullet here. I just keep a small stainless steel wire brush handy to clean out the loose stuff. Sooner or later you just pitch 'em in the "i'm sure I can use that for something" pile and grab another :D If I remember right, the Pferd files are about $11 doz while Stihl files are about $20 doz. Haven't had to buy any in a while...

Oh yeah, the HF "Chicago" is, shall we say, rather "flexible" :D Literally, the plastic frame flexes when you move the cutting head. LOL

[Fred Strumpf]

Been running the Stihl framboss for years. Never got a power grinder for sharpening. Tried a couple of guides. Found them too much bother, am back to using good Stihl files and the guide clamped onto the file.

So I am back to the basics, well I gave up my Liegh Jig and am cutting dovetails by hand again too. Is this reverse evolution?

[AL Ursich]

I have the Chop Saw version and love it. Some tips I picked up over time worth mentioning.

Saw one from a Saw Shop with Blue Burnt tips after some kid went at it with the grinder. Then low and behold I see my chain has the same blue heat mark on the tip.... Solution.... I keep a dressing stone handy and dress the wheel with each chain to remove oil and dirt missed in the cleaning process. A black mark on the wheel is dirt causing a build up of heat on the steel. Next is technique.... Rather than do a one stroke chop or cut on the chain I do a series of 4 ever deeper strokes to the final depth. This lets the chain cool some between strokes.

I never was good enough to do it with a file.... The Chop Saw version lets Amateur's like me sharpen a chain... Had quite a following of customers during the winter when I would do the first one for free then charge. Never a complaint, lots of repeat business.

Pocono AL

[K. L. McReynolds]

For those that advocate hand filing: how many of you would hand-sharpen your table saw blades? While a chainsaw is used for rough cutting, it is still very much a precision cutting tool--that's why the rakers are set to 0.025" below the cutting teeth on most chains. You can't eyeball that. Jigs and machines for sharpening...


I repaired chain saws for professional tree trimmers for over 20 years. I used the Oregon bench mounted power sharpener mentioned in a previous post----but only after the chain had been damaged------saw users hand sharpened chains instead. Hand sharpening allows a chain to be used even after a tooth or three have been sharpened to extinction----the power sharpener shortens the useable life by as much as a third---since the setting for sharpening is determined by the smallest tooth.

The key is to also file down the anti-kickback rakers after the teeth are filed past the raker height.

Now, I will caution hand filers of one potential problem---filing opposing teeth at a different angle. That will cause the saw to cut at an angle---and it is almost impossible to cut straight with a misfiled chain.

Professionals usually 'sweeten' the teeth after several hours of use---depending on the wood being cut----more often when cutting hedge than elm, for instance. 'Sweetening' consists of using a hand file in two strokes, rotating the file on each stroke and filing into the edge. That keeps the teeth cutting edge very sharp-----if you hand sharpen correctly, you will need to use gloves to avoid being cut.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have the Chop Saw version and love it. Some tips I picked up over time worth mentioning.


What sort of grinder / cutter are you running in your chop saw sharpening rig~?

Is it a conventional Abrasive 10"-dia steel cutting wheel?

[Brad Schmid]

What sort of grinder / cutter are you running in your chop saw sharpening rig~?

Is it a conventional Abrasive 10"-dia steel cutting wheel?

Cliff,

I could be wrong, but I interpreted that to mean he was using an Oregon 511A style (kind of a "mini chop saw" if you will) machine, which have a 5 5/8" grinding wheel.