New "used" TS -- need last bit of alignment help

[Ken Cohen]

Hi --

I'm tuning up a Jet JTAS picked up from Craig's list.

I've gone through all the appropriate steps (from video and forum) -- but am still stuck. In theory, everything is aligned properly. But when ripping, the beginning of the cut removes slightly more than the end of the cut (enough that when I put the board back after the cut, the entry just clears the saw teeth and the exit -- when I flip the board -- is just blocked by the same teeth.

Probably a simple problem (or no problem at all), but I need and welcome any help from all the experienced folks here.

Thanks.

Ken

[Samuel Brooks]

I would check the alignment of the splitter. I hand various problems with alignmnet until I switched to the MJ Splitter (http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm). But you can use lots of different ones including making your own zero clearence plat then inserting a wedge of hardwood to keep the wood from pinching the blade.

I found out that the factory splitter was too easy to install incorrectly because of out it mounts on the back of the saw, it could twist which caused issues with consistant rip widths.

Sam

[Anthony Whitesell]

When the board is flipped which way?

What all have you aligned on the saw and using what tools and techniques?

[Jason Beam]

Since the front of the blade is cutting the board the entire length, the distance between it and the fence is somehow changing. My first suspect is flex in the fence. Give a good push on the back end of the fence with it locked down just over the miter slot to see if you can see how much it flexes.

If it takes a BIG push, it may not be the fence flexing but the blade moving - that's less likely (unless you don't have everything well tightened down under there, of course).

I would start with suspecting the fence, though.

[Ken Cohen]

Thanks to all for the quick response.

Sam and Jason both describe a plausible explanation.

I spent more than a few hours today aligning the stock splitter/guard -- which needed "flattening" since it was bent and a complete realignment, including resetting the mount on the trunion. Lacking any guidance, I set the splitter parallel to the fence side of the blade (it's a RT saw, thin kerf blade) and a hair closer to the fence than the blade. Thus, I wonder if the splitter is driving the stock to the right and displacing the XACTA fence?

Thoughts for reaction:

Can I confirm this problem by running a test rip without the splitter?

If this is the problem, what is the proper alignment of the splitter relative to the blade?

Thanks again for all the help.

Ken

PS. I ran the following adjustments: blade to miter slot parallel, blade 90 degrees, fence 90 degrees to table, fence parallel to miter slot, miter gauge 90 degrees, etc.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Sure just take off a kerf width or a little more. That little bit of stock removal won't pose a pinch-threat.

I was wondering if you had aligned the fence 90 degrees to the miter slot, which you had. That was/is a big issue with my new ~2003 Craftsman Contractor saw, but not with my older ~1954 Craftsman Hybrid Saw.

[Ken Cohen]

Sorry -- wrote last post late at night. Meant to say that I tested the alignment of the miter gauge, which was fine.

I appreciate your thought, but want to make sure I fully understand it -- Relative to the blade to fence distance, how wide should I set the splitter to fence distance.

Thanks again.

Ken

[Anthony Whitesell]

The fence should be parallel to the miter slot and the blade parallel to the miter slot, thus the fence parallel to the blade. The splitter should "hide in the shadow" of the blade. If the kerf on the board being cut, doesn't close the splitter shouldn't touch the board at all (wasted your money so far). If the board has internal tensions and the kerf closes behind the blade, then the splitter will keep the board from pinching the blade and potentially save your life (instantly worth every penny).

If the splitter doesn't touch the board, I don't see how the splitter is affecting your cut. It's been a while since I used a saw with a splitter or riving knife (my new saw pre-dates all these safety features).

[Ken Cohen]

With everyone's help, the saw is working perfectly. Seems that the splitter pinched the wood and nudged the fence. I readjusted the splitter guard to rest in the shadow of the blade -- and rips are now dead on.

Thanks to all for the help.

Ken