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View Full Version : Titebond II or Titebond III for Patio Table



Lance Norris
04-18-2008, 7:12 PM
My wife wants a patio/picnic table, so today I bought pressure treated lumber for the project. We decided the table on the cover of "The Best of Wood Magazine~Book 3" is the plan. In the plan, it says to use TBII. This is an older book, and I wonder if TBIII is better. I read as many threads as I could here and understand that lots of you dont like TBIII because of "creep" but where I will be using a glue is an area where the table is doweled(at the joint of the foot and side riser, tressel table style)so creep wont be an issue. This is an end grain to long grain butt joint with several 3/4" dowels. I have both TBII and III, so I dont want to hear Gorilla Glue or something other. This is just between II and III. So lets have it, TBII or TBIII for treated lumber, outside all year in Ohio, uncovered and exposed to rain and extremes of humidity and temps of minus 10 to 90 degrees.

Tom Esh
04-18-2008, 7:39 PM
I go with TBIII for anything that water touches. I've never experienced creep with it, but I don't think you'd notice anyway since that PT lumber is going to move a whole lot all by itself.:)

Lance Norris
04-18-2008, 10:04 PM
Anyone else?

Ron Jones near Indy
04-18-2008, 10:07 PM
I think Tom pretty well summed up the situation. TB III is what I would use.

Tom Veatch
04-18-2008, 10:27 PM
... So lets have it, TBII or TBIII for treated lumber, outside all year in Ohio, uncovered and exposed to rain and extremes of humidity and temps of minus 10 to 90 degrees.

Agree with the previous advice/comments. TBIII over TBII for anything exposed to the elements. But, on the PT subject, I laid a deck with PT lumber and had the decking boards warp and move so much that it actually sheared off some of the screws. I don't use PT for anything for which there is a reasonable alternative.

One piece that I'd cut and installed for a 6' long joist had bowed and was showing an inch and a half crown by the time I laid the decking boards. Replaced it and set it aside just to see if it was going to warp into a complete circle. Didn't quite make the full circle, but it was bowed almost 4" before I lost track of it.

I predict that by this time next year, you're going to be intensely dissatisfied with your table.

Charlie Plesums
04-18-2008, 10:28 PM
With end grain to long grain, the strength is in the dowels, not the glue, so the glue doesn't matter.

Personally, every piece of outdoor furniture I have seen is sometimes stored so that water accumulates in the joint. None of the titebond glues are waterproof (with TB III see the spec sheet, not the label), only water resistant. Therefore I go to a waterPROOF glue for outside furniture.

My preference/recommendation is PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive, for less than $3 per tube, if I remember right. After the nozzle is plugged, punch holes near the nozzle end, and keep using the rest of the tube.