Need advice on a second router

[J. Z. Guest]

A couple months ago, I got a router, a DeWalt DW616. It is the single speed, fixed-base, "1-3/4 hp" model. I like the ergonomics, the fact that the motor doesn't need to turn for depth adjustments, and the nice price. ($95 shipped)

Then, I bought a through dovetail jig and had to take the 616 out of the table, re-attach the clear baseplate, center it, and change bits a bunch of times. When I was done, I had to go through it all again to put it back in the table. This is getting old in a hurry.

So I'm wondering whether I should get a 3-1/4 hp model, slap it in the table & plan to leave it there, or get the DeWalt 2-1/4 hp kit with the two bases.

With the 3-1/4 hp model, I will have enough power no matter what, but will still end up having to switch bits when routing dovetails, unless I dismount the big boy from the table. But I will be able to do horizontal raised-panel work if I ever want to.

With the 2-1/4 hp kit, I will have another fixed base that can stay in the table, as well as another motor that will work in any of the bases. Also, I will have DeWalt's excellent dust collection on the plunge base. (I had a DW621 before) When I'm doing dovetails, I can take the variable speed 2-1/4 hp motor out of the base in the table and have two routers, each with its own bit. I'm leaning this direction, unless I hear from you folks that I would really miss the extra hp.

For now, I don't see myself doing any raised panels, and if I do, I'm probably more likely to build a tall fence & do it vertically.

[Michael Sobik]

I have the DW618 with the two bases, and use them exactly how you describe. The fixed base stays in the router table and I use the plunge base for handheld stuff. I like the motor switching arragement since I can just slip the motor out of the fixed base for bit changes.

One word of caution. I bought my first (yeah this sounds bad) DW618 and about 6 months later it broke. Sparks shooting out, smoke, flame, etc. etc. Dewalt service center fixed it, although it took them a month. 3 months later it broke again. Same. Exact. Problem. I had a project going and couldn't wait the month for them to fix it again, so I bought another motor assembly. So far it's been fine, but I won't be surprised if it dies the same fiery death.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would definitely get the dual base system, though if you are going with DeWalt, I would look at their three base systems, with a D-Handle in addition to the standard fixed and plunge bases. I do not have a D-handle router, and for some operations, I wish I did.

I have a PC 890, and the fixed base lives in the router table, while the plunge base is loose and ready for any hand held projects. That arrangement works great because a simple lever releases the motor. I do not know anything about the DeWalt system, but I think it is similar.

Doc

[Thomas Williams]

I find that I use my router table much more than I do the hand held routers. I have the Hitachi M12V in my table and have no complaints, although if I were buying today I would opt for the Milwaukee 5625.
As for dovetails, hit your local pawn shops, you should be able to come up with a decent PC 690 or DW 610 that you could dedicate to your dovetail set up. This would leave your original router for all other use.
If you decide to go with the 2 1/4 kit approach, take a look at the Milwaukee 5616. The plunge base is as smooth as my DW621.

[Jim Becker]

I this particular situation, I'd go with the DW618 kit now, but consider putting a 15 amp router in your table in the future. The benefits of the compatibility outweigh the extra power more than enough at this point.

[Mark Grotenhuis]

I agree with Thomas. If you end up going with the 2 1/4 HP option get the Milwaukee 5616. Its the best router I've ever owned. I have had a lot of experience with my dad's PC 890 ... in my opinion the Mil. 5616 is far superior to the PC 890. The depth adjustment is easier, it doesn't have the problematic "one tool" bit removal, and the plunge is much, much smoother. I'm also thinking about buying a more powerful router to mount in my table. I am going to go with the Milwaukee 5625 just because I like the 5616 so much. My only complaint about the Milwaukee is that it didn't come with a torx screwdriver to take the plates off. But $4 at sears fixed that.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I agree with Thomas. If you end up going with the 2 1/4 HP option get the Milwaukee 5616. Its the best router I've ever owned. I have had a lot of experience with my dad's PC 890 ... in my opinion the Mil. 5616 is far superior to the PC 890. The depth adjustment is easier, it doesn't have the problematic "one tool" bit removal, and the plunge is much, much smoother. I'm also thinking about buying a more powerful router to mount in my table. I am going to go with the Milwaukee 5625 just because I like the 5616 so much. My only complaint about the Milwaukee is that it didn't come with a torx screwdriver to take the plates off. But $4 at sears fixed that.



The 980 that I have came with two wrenches. I don't like the spindle lock design at all, so I don't use it. The think I liked about the PC was the above-the-table height adjustment, which works well for me. I also like the fact that I can unlock the router from above the table as well, something that none of the other routers I looked at could do.

I have not tried the plunge action on the Milwaukee, but I have not had any problems with the plunge base on the 890.

Doc

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

If it's your second router and you are putting it in a machine then get the bigger dog and use the smaller router for hand held.

I subscribe to the theory that there is no such thing as enough routers.

[Peter Quadarella]

Not having the ability to plunge is too limiting in my opinion. Get the 2 1/4HP kit (and some day you will want to add the 3 ;).

(oh, and you'll probably need a laminate trimmer also :D)

[J. Z. Guest]

Michael, when you had the problems with your DeWalt routers, were they heavily loaded at the time? Would you consider it an overload condition? ...and how long were you running them?

I'm not at all pointing fingers, I'm just curious from a professional point of view. I'm a UL engineer, and the standard for portable power tools, UL 60745, does allow emission of flame under overload conditions. The logic being that since portable tools are attended while in use, there shouldn't be any fire issues, and if there were, you'd be there to put it out right away. I don't necessarily agree with this logic personally, but I'm wondering if those routers emitted flame during what you would consider normal or abnormal conditions.

I assume that if you were overloading the hell out of it, you would have mentioned that.

Another key here is that those routers are CSA Listed, not UL Listed, and I'm just curious. Would a UL Listed router light off under the same conditions?

Man this is a conundrum to me. I feel UL is a superior safety certification agency, and that if I don't buy UL Listed tools, I'm saying that I don't think my job is important or that CSA can do it just as well. (I don't believe either of those things)

On the other hand, if I buy a UL listed router or router system, I've giving up the compatibility. Grr...

I guess I'll lean more towards Milwaukee, Bosch, and Porter-Cable then, and accept that I won't have 100% compatibility. I'll still have the one motor that can be moved between two or three bases, but it won't be interchangeable with the one I've got.

The only problem is that Milwaukee, Bosch, and Porter-Cable are generally a bit more dear, financially speaking, than DeWalt. I guess I'll suck it up.

[scott spencer]

Jeremy - I'd just go with a big fixed router with variable speed for the router table, and get plunge capability as needed for a smaller router more suitable for hand use. If the most suitable 15 amp router for your table needs happens to be plunger, there's no harm done, but a 3hp router for handuse can be handful.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Buy both! Especially if the Freud is stilll on sale. There are big advantages to both, and I just wouldn't be able to decide. personally, I like the idea of having the big router under the table, and leaving it there. That leaves my bosch kit ready for any hand held work I want.

[Jim Becker]

My DW618 has performed flawlessly for a few years now, Jeremy. Given that you already have its sister and it's available for an attractive cost, it will probably be a better choice for you than flipping brands.

[Roger Bull]

My main router is the Milwaukee 5625. It is outstanding and would buy it again.

I want to leave it in the router table all the time so I just picked up the "Milwaukee 5616-24 2-¼ Max HP EVS Multi-Base Router Kit Includes Plunge Base and BodyGrip Fixed Base" from Amazon.

Amazon has a really good price on it right now at $209.99.

-Roger

[Jim Andrew]

I have a M12V Hitachi 3 1/4 hp, it has the speed control built in and is great for a router table. Also bought the 2 1/4 hp with 2 bases, fixed and plunge, think the model is M12VC? Anyway I really like the 2 1/4 hp router, and it is more powerful than you would think. I also have 2 of the old 1 3/4 hp PC routers, and like the Hitachi routers better. The smaller one also has the built in speed control. And I bought it on Amazon for 129.as a kit with both the bases and in a case. Jim

[Jesse Cloud]

If you are looking for a router for the dovetail jig, you don't need a lot of HP and plunge capability is just about irrelevant - best way to use a router on a dt jig is to set the depth once and leave it locked tightly. I would go with the good old pc690.

[glenn bradley]

I put a 5625 in the table and never looked back. Flawless performance, smooth, solid, stupidly powerful. Oh, did I mention I like it?

[J. Z. Guest]

I just bought the DW618 two base kit at Lowes. ($220) Had to tie it down to the passenger seat of my scooter.

I was this close -->||<-- to buying the Ryobi "2 hp" plunge router, which got a good review in Pop Wood in 2003. (best of the entry level plungers) It seems like a very nice router. But one thing made me raise my eyebrows: it is marked "2 hp" in big letters, and on the nameplate label, it says 10 A. At 120 V, that equals 1.6 hp. To make 2 hp, it would need to be running at 12.4 A, which of course means it will burn out quickly.

My DW616 is rated 1-3/4 hp and 11 A, which is still optimistic, but closer to reality.

So I moved onto Lowes from HD and had to really think. What do I get extra with the DeWalt kit to justify the extra $120?

- 20% More power (12 A vs. 10 A)

- Slightly smoother plunge action

- Dust extraction

- An extra base (I'll have two motors & three bases now, all interchangeable)

- Last but not least, I won't have to buy another router in two months and try to justify it to the Purchasing Department. (she thinks it is madness to buy duplicate tools; thinks I'm lazy)

I also took a risk and bid on a DW625 with "mechanical problems" and a missing collet on ebay for $20. If it pans out and isn't too bad, mechanically-speaking, I'll also have a 15 A router for the table. Even if I have to spend $100 fixing it, it should be a good deal.

[Steven J Corpstein]

If you are looking for a router for the dovetail jig, you don't need a lot of HP and plunge capability is just about irrelevant - best way to use a router on a dt jig is to set the depth once and leave it locked tightly. I would go with the good old pc690.

I have a PC690 set up for a Leigh DR4 and wouldn't change that router for any other. Ergonomics is superb and plenty of power. It also has a very low center of gravity which is important when using on a DT jig.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
IMHO - the real question isn't which one, but which one first.
I voted the 2 1/4HP, since I believe it's the more versitle of the two, given that you don't already do raised panels.

Routers - of all makes - seem to suffer from "feature" challange.
There doesn't seem to be one that will "do it all", or even one line of mfg's that offers "do it all" capability.

I guess that's why I have 4 routers (PC, Freud, Ryobi & Craftsman), a Roto-Zip and 2 Dremels :D

[Joe Vincent]

If you get a chance to buy one off of eBay or elsewhere affordably (perhaps sell one of your other DeWalt bases to help with the cost), I recommend getting the D handle base for your DeWalt routers.

[J. Z. Guest]

As promised (but a little late) here's the pic of the homecoming. I thought someone might find it amusing.