Ridgid Model TS3650 Table Saw opinions?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
I'm looking at the Ridgid TS3650 due to the sale HD is having right now/the fact that I have $225.00 in HD gift cards.
The reviews on the HD website are nothing short of glowing - avg. rating is 4.9 out of 5.
The only real complaint anyone has is the lack of a factory dado insert.

With all the features listed, this seems to be an extraordinary deal for the money - $549 minus $100 sale minus $225 Gift cards = $224.

[Ken Massingale]

I'll be the first of probably many to respond. With around 3 years on my 3650 I am still as happy as the day I brought it home. At $224 you should be tickled pink!

[Todd Hoppe]

I have this saw and love it. I made a dado insert with some scrap B/B ply, set screws to level, and a flush trim router bit. It took probably 20 minutes.

If you want to get an even better deal, check out the AARP website. You typically can purchase additional HD gift cards there at a discount, if you know someone with an AARP membership number.

One caution, I have had poor luck with a full kerf Forrest WWII blade. The saw cuts better with HD bulk pack Freud Diablo thin kerf blades. You will not regret buying this saw.

[J. Z. Guest]

If your shop is not big, the Ridgid TS2400 is also excellent.

I made zero clearance inserts for mine and it handles dadoes just fine. I too have had great luck with the Freud blades that HD carries. The Ridgid blade that comes with the saw is very good too. I don't know if it is a rip blade or what. It has the tooth count of a rip blade, but the alternate bevel teeth of a general purpose or crosscut blade. At any rate, it cuts smoother than you'd think for having so few teeth.

[J. Z. Guest]

Oh, regarding the zero clearance inserts, if you don't want to mess around with set screws for leveling, electrical tape as shim material and some patience also works. ;)

[Craig D Peltier]

I had one for a year. Good saw, lacked power for me. Good fence.Good DC I thought as well. Lacked ability to easily mount any type of outfeed table to the unit.
As far as a dadoe insert, I used 1/2 inch ply, traced the circle from the old one and cut it out on bandsaw. Drilled hole for start point and cut out dado hole with jigsaw. A little block planing or sanding to fit snug in hole. No levelers screws or tape and it worked fine all year.

[Mike SoRelle]

If your store stocks them, see if you can get a 3660, they sell them both under the same SKU and are mostly identical, but the 3660 has slightly better instructions, and a little bit stiffer of a frame, it's also in only one box instead of two. The rest of the saw/fence is identical between the models once put together.

I continue to love mine, though I've had the opposite experience of Todd in that I ditched a Freud LU83R010 thin kerf blade in favor of the WW2 full kerf and have been ALOT happier, I am using a stiffener on the forrest which does limit my depth of cut, but generally I don't have a problem with it, and when I do I just remove it. The Freud seemed to want to deflect too much for my taste which I attributed to the thin kerf. I figure I'll use it as a backup for when the Forrest is out for sharpening.

The table was very flat from the factory and I was able to get the heeling dialed into .001" after some trials and tribulations with the super touchy trunnions. The fence was basically perfectly aligned as it went together, though there is a small area with a .002" deflection in the center of the fence (it's a concave area in relation to the blade, so it's not a problem, I was actually impressed by the accuracy and total lack of play in the fence)

My available time to make sawdust is pretty limited so I opted for the Leecraft RG-1 zero clearance insert it's made of phenolic resin and has a melamine surface on the top so it's nice and smooth, also has leveling screws and a retention tab in the back.

The miter gauge in typical 'comes with the saw' fashion leaves something to be desired and has a fair amount of slop, but nothing a good after market one won't fix.

For the money it's a spectacular saw once you take the time to set it up and dial in the tolerances.

Mike

[alex grams]

Many people agree the saw is a good buy for the money. I recently added extensions to mine though (in regards to Craig's comments). I actually found it pretty easy to add a side router table (which has been indespinsable in regards to using the existing fence, and its space saving). The back table was surprisingly easy to mount and add. I still have to put a folding table on the backside, but even the extra foot on the back is a huge help.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I've had my saw for about 4 years, had HD order a dado blade insert took about four days to arrive.

Greg

[Joe Chritz]

I run a Freud 40T combo industrial in my 3650 and it runs it fine. It starts to struggle on 2" thick hardwoods, but it is a combo blade and only 1.5 horse so that is to be expected.

Mine has held set up very well and has given me over the value easily. There are many bonuses it has that are standard features. Machined pulleys, multi rib belt, good fence and some others I am not thinking of. The ridgid forums has much info on it.

Until I purchase a cabinet saw it will stay.

Joe

[Prashun Patel]

Does this saw have an enclosed motor?

[alex grams]

Shawn:
No, the saw sits on the backside of the frame and hangs out. If you look at my picture, i built the attached extension table to stick out as far as the motor on the backside, so that when I add a folding extension it will hang down perpendicular to the floor and right against the back of the motor.

Hope that description helps.

[Rob Luter]

I'm real happy with mine. I added an Incra Miter Gauge, a zero clearance insert, and a good blade. Regarding horsepower: I've rip cut 1 3/4" thick hard maple using a full kerf combination blade without too much trouble, although I'm not trying to set any speed records (Mine is wired for 220V for what that's worth). I'll be adding a Bench Dog router table wing eventually.

[Rob Luter]

Alex - I like the looks of your table extensions. Do you have any shots from below showing how everything is connected?

[allan cripe]

Hey there Rich,

I bought a 3660 about a month ago, that sale happened to coincide with my birthday;)...I also bought a forrest WWII .125 40T blade (thru the creek's link to amazon) and I have been extremely pleased. While its very true that there are a lot of better contractor style saws out there, for the money you are talking about here, I believe you HAVE to buy this saw for what it brings to the table. The fence is top notch, cast iron table and wings, and the mobile base feature is just plain cool. I am only a hobbiest, but for my needs this is prolly more saw than I'll ever need. I have not had any issues yet with the thicker kerf WWII. I haven't even tried the blade that came with the saw, but I have heard more positive than negative regarding it performance. You can go to the Ridgid website and order a dado insert if you want to buy one from them, they DO make one now. However, it really is not that difficult to make your own, as mentioned above. Happy hunting

Al

[Butch Edwards]

I have this saw and love it. I made a dado insert with some scrap B/B ply, set screws to level, and a flush trim router bit. It took probably 20 minutes.

If you want to get an even better deal, check out the AARP website. You typically can purchase additional HD gift cards there at a discount, if you know someone with an AARP membership number.

wow, I'm a member and never knew that....:eek:

I also have the 3650 and it's a darn good saw.

[Mike Gager]

dang i just bought $2000 worth of tools from HD this week (including the 3660) wonder if they will honor the sale? i had a 10% off coupon but still could maybe save even more

by the way, i stepped up from the little $99 ryobi saw to the 3660 and its sweet. its so quiet!

[alex grams]

In regards to the extension table and router table, all information I got on how to set it up were from the Ridgid forums. One guy has a nice gallery of his setup (i hope he doesn't mind me linking to it)

http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking.htm

The only thing i did different was to not put the aluminum insert between his table and the wing. I just used the existing holes for the wire inserts on the underside of the table and bolted pieces of 3/4" angle iron to the frame of the table. One the right side (from looking at the front of the saw) i had to drill holes a little higher than the existing ones, that way the steel on the back doesn't interfere with the motor when you tilt it to 45degrees.

The bolting of the extension table is the same as in the link.

The router table i just got a piece of acryllic from woodcraft and drilled the holes in it to match the mounting on my router, then rabbetted a face into the 3/4" melamine clad MDF for it to sit in (if your height isnt perfect from your rabbet and the plate for the router, just use some tape along the rabbet face to increase the height of the plate).

Also, to mount the router table, i just edged the mmelamine piece with 1x2" oak, and then drilled holes through it, then got some bolts with heads that fit in the slots of the guide rails but have heads large enough to prohibit any rotation of the bolt, then just put the head in the rail, slide it through the hole in the oak, and bolt it from the oak side. I had to drill holes in the wing table to do the same here, but you can hold the bolthead on the opposite side to tighten these up. I think i had 2 bolts against the wing and 2 in each fence rail.

[Mike Robbins]

With the HD sale on, even without any gift cards, the Ridgid 3660 is an unbeatable value and a saw that holds its own with any contractor saw out there. I've had one for about a month and do not regret buying it for an instant. If you are looking for a new contractor saw, you can't go wrong here.

[Joe Chritz]

I have a similar rear table and mine is attached to the top of two 2x4's jointed flat. The boards are attached through the table top via holes drilled in the webbing of the extensions. That leaves the screws below the top surface.

Extension table is mounted with slotted angle and adjusted for height with bolts and nuts set up as a jam nut.

It would support a router easily.

Joe

[John Towns]

I have the Ridgid as well. There no doubt are better machines but I have found this table saw to be a great asset to my shop. The Herc-u-lift makes it extremely mobile which is important to me. The fence has been solid for me, smooth to slide into position and easily adjusted. I installed a router table on the right side which has the added benefit of more work surface. Then, I added an outfeed table to handle longer cuts. All in all, I am thrilled with mine. I am confident that you will like yours, should you decide to get it, and at that price, all the more reason to go for it.

John

[J. Z. Guest]

Does this saw have an enclosed motor?
By this, do you mean is the motor enclosed inside the base of the saw, or does the motor itself have openings?

[Art Mann]

Add me to the list of satisfied 3650 owners. My only complaints are (1) mediocre dust collection provisions and (2) no good way of attaching an outfeed table. It can be done, but I just built a free standing outfeed table instead that serves double duty as an assembly table. The saw has less power than a typical cabinet saw, but I knew that before I bought it and adjusted my performance expectations accordingly.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I am a satisfied TS3650 owner.


The motor hangs out the back of the saw.

[Dick Strauss]

Rich,
Here in NW Ohio I'm able to get HD gift cards at Giant Eagle (GE) grocery stores. When you buy through GE stores, you get $0.20/gal (up to 30 gal) for each $50 you spend including gift cards. So, on a $250 purchase, you'd get $1/gal after buying gift cards. The only catch is that you might have to wait 24 hours for the gift cards to be activated. Possibly you can find a similar deal where you live and save a few more $$$.

I bought a lawnmower last year with gift cards. I ended up getting 30 gal of gas for under $9.

Here is a link that might show your local stores.
http://www.gianteagle.com/StoreLocator/Default.aspx?cntid=177253
It looks like they have 10 stores in the Cleveland area.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Thanks!
Looks like I'm sold on one. Now I guess all I have to do is find the time to get to HD before the sale ends.

[Jason White]

I have one. Buy it!

Jason


Hello,
I'm looking at the Ridgid TS3650 due to the sale HD is having right now/the fact that I have $225.00 in HD gift cards.
The reviews on the HD website are nothing short of glowing - avg. rating is 4.9 out of 5.
The only real complaint anyone has is the lack of a factory dado insert.

With all the features listed, this seems to be an extraordinary deal for the money - $549 minus $100 sale minus $225 Gift cards = $224.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello Dick,
Great suggestion!
We have a GE right down the street from us. I didn't know they included gift cards w/the gas offer.
I'll have to relay that to SWMBO - aka the "Accounts payable" department.
We go through nearly $800 worth of gas a month between the two of us.

[Patrick Melchior]

great saw.... love it. Just take you time and do the setup right......

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Rich,

My wife bought me a TS 3650 for Christmas 2007 and I love the saw. it is very accurate and sturdy. I use thin Kerf blades and the 3650 cuts through anything. My sister bought a wide dado blade insert for the saw at HD.

Joe

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Rich and other Ridgid owners,

I found a place to purchase the dado insert for our TS3650 saws.
part number TTI-AC1030. It is thinner than the original throat plate, so with mine, I had to add 1/2 inch set screws in place of the set screws that came with the insert.


Original Ryobi / Ridgid Power Tool Parts


http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Ridgid/Ridgid_Main.html

Joe

Joe

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Hello,

What upgrades does the 3660 have over the 3650? Thanks

Joe

[Mike Gager]

Hello,

What upgrades does the 3660 have over the 3650? Thanks

Joe

only difference is they added side braces to the base and it now comes in 1 box instead of 2. the saw itself is the same

[Vic Damone]

For what you'll be able to get it for it's a screaming deal. I'm going to list the things I don't like about the tool, none of which are that big of a deal.

First, after owning a cabinet saw many years ago I find the basic contractor saws design goofy. Open back and bottom sawdust all over the place, I refuse to use mine indoors. With the motor hanging another ten inches off the back it's actually larger than many cabinet and hybrid saws. These are issues with most contractor saws not just the 3650/60.

Second, I can't say if this is typical of all contractor saws or just the Ridgid but the blade is set so far back that there is only a few inches before the rear edge of the table. You'll soon realize the need for an outfeed table. Designing one that doesn't contact the motor when making a 45 degree cut can be tricky but not impossible. The table hight is taller than most table saws coupled with the blade so far back I find myself (6'1") bending over the table more than I can remember.

Thirdly, and this is nit picking but, the casting at the arbor restricts the use of a Dial-a-Width dado set. Even if the casting cleared the arbor is to short to use the entire set.

The biggest surprise for me is how well the rip fence worked. It's light weight make it easy to move and front and rear locking means zero drift. Add to that the ability to use just about any fence accessory out there I found it superior to all the aftermarket fences except one.

All in all you should be satisfied with the Ridgid and those folks over on the Ridgid wood working site are very helpful.

Vic

[Christopher Ryan]

I have one also, and have been very happy with it. It has been my primary TS, at a job-site for about a year and a half now. And I've put this saw through hell! We've ripped 2 1/2 inch oak, mahogany, poplar and pine on it, soaking wet treated 2x's and 3/8" aluminum plate! The table is large enough to handle sheet goods with ease.

Funny thing is I bought it because I liked the mobile base!

I'm sure we'll probably burn the motor up yet, but it has paid for it self many times over, and although we always check and adjust it before any critical cutting, the fence always seems to remain true! Not so on the bevel, but reasonable!

I must agree with the above posters, that an out feed table is a must! Any cuts drop squarely on the motor (I seldom bother with an out feed roller if the stock is 6' or less, my bad!)

I might add that I don't like the proprietary drive belt, (that HD doesn't stock), the motor is a bit undersized, and I've had to add some re-enforcement to the right side of the housing, as that's where the anchor for tilting the saw is, it has a tendency to flex, OK flat out bend!

My 2 cents! (and my first post!)

[Tim Marks]

First, after owning a cabinet saw many years ago I find the basic contractor saws design goofy. Open back and bottom sawdust all over the place
Ridgid has a blade shroud to help out with that. Stick a shop vac with a 2.5" hose on the shroud, and it will solve the problem of dust flying out the back (but not the top....)

Ridgid is a great saw, and that is a killer deal right now. I have one, and it is great. built in mobile base is the best anyone sells (sits on all four feet, and one step on the pedal reaises it on 4 casters). The fence is great, don't believe the naysayers who don't have this saw and are convinced any fence that is not a t-square type is substandard. The stock blade that came with it is an excellent blade.

[Mike Robbins]

Open back and bottom sawdust all over the place, I refuse to use mine indoors. Vic

I've found that with a 16 gallon shopvac attached to the bladeshroud outlet under the saw, the amount of sawdust that escapes is pretty much nil. Having the blade guard on the saw also helps some, as does a zero-clearance insert.

I work out of my garage with the doors open, and the shopvac exhaust pointed out the door- not too concerned with microparticles. But with this setup I don't have to sweep the floor after I cut.

[Vic Damone]

I have a fairly new Ridgid 16 gal vac attached to my saw. I also have a cyclone between the vac and the saw which actually improves the vacs performance somewhat as well as a ZCI. I use this tool outdoors and with a mask as I'm very concerned with microparticals especially when cutting exotic woods.

I'm sure that Ridgid's shroud does a better job of dust management than contractor saws without a shroud. Personally, I find the basic contractor saw's open back and bottom design to be at issue and not brand specific.

SawStop's contractor saw has a much more enclosed arbor casting along with a much larger blade shroud with a four inch port. Utilizing the cfm's of a more powerful dust collector and a larger port may provide a better dust management for their contractor saw.

The Ridgid TS3650/60 is a great value and provides a solution to many content owners. Unfortunately for me I've been spoiled and I can't wait to get another cabinet saw.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I bought the TS3650 befoe I could even spell Grizzley or even knew they existed. That being said, the TS3650 has served me well for the price of the investment. It is certainly a step up from the old direct drive Craftsman it replaced!

Good product for the dollar IMHO.

[Mike Robbins]

I'm very concerned with microparticals especially when cutting exotic woods.

Yeah, agreed there. A shopvac setup isn't going to get microparticulates if you're working indoors- need a real DC setup with a micron bag or filter. I work in my garage and wheel the Ridgid to the door and attach the shopvac with the exhaust out the door.

Guess my point is that if you're not attaching to a real DC system, the Ridgid dust collection is as good as anything out there. If you are working indoors and have a 4" DC system then there are better choices and a cabinet saw would be better bet.

[Ken Alcott]

I have had this saw for almost 3 years and I love it. For the money you can't go wrong.

[John Branam]

I have had the T3650 for over 3 years and I think it is a very good saw. I added a router table and out feed table.

[john bateman]

I must be the only owner who doesn't love it. I posted the following on another site once...at least you will see some of the "cons" vs all the "pro's" being presented here:

1)The Ridgid vibrates more than I would like. Cutoffs will walk across the tabletop and fall through the holes in the top.
2)It has holes in the top for things to fall through.
3)I had to enlarge the fence rail mounting holes, in the edge of the tables, so that the fence would sit at the proper height, and parallel to the table top.
4)Although it was easy to align the blade to the miter slot when the blade is at zero degrees, when it is tilted to 45, mine is out of parallel to the miter slot by about .01". This matters a lot to me, but maybe not so much to others.
5)The Herculift gives only about a quarter inch of lift. In my case, when I move the saw, the leveling feet get stuck on some of the lumps in my crappy workshop floor.
6)I don't like the power switch at all. It's small and I found myself fumbling for it many times. I eventually put on a large paddle switch like that used on the Steel City saws. I can bump it with my knee to turn off the machine, and keep my hands on the workpiece.
7)The miter slots are narrower at the ends of the table by a tiny amount. This causes my adjustable Incra Miter bars to bind at the ends of their travel. This is fixable with some sanding/grinding, but I haven't done so yet.
8) You will probably want to replace the miter gauge. Most contractor saws have this problem also. The stock blade is not very good either.

Having wrote all that, I use it regularly and can get pretty good results with it.

[Vic Damone]

John, I hear you. I installed four or five washers on the Herc-U-Lift wheels to gain the added lift I needed. I tried to find higher quality casters for the lift because I'm forced to move the saw a great deal. Unfortunately the caster's dimensions are critical to avoid hitting the legs during rotation. I'm hesitant to drill another set of hole in those square tubes.

I too have problems at 45 degrees.

The rear fence rail mounting holes were too low causing the fence to bind on the table surface. Elongating the hole would raise the rear rail but now the rail would interfere with the miter channel. Replacing the fence with an Incra made this a moot point.

It's unclear to me why this saw was designed with the blade set so far back in the table and such a high table hight. I'm 6'1" and it's almost a stretch.

Vic

[Tim Marks]

It's unclear to me why this saw was designed with the blade set so far back in the table and such a high table hight.
The blade position is that same for all contractor saws (actually, it looks like the same as for all 10" cabinet and hybrid saws too). You should not make your decision on the ridgid vs other contractor saws based upon this complaint.

The Ridgid table height is the same as every contractor saw (34-35") that I have ever seen or used (except for maybe the little two-bit direct drive TS, but that isn't really a contractor saw...).

I have never had any compaint about table saw or distance to the blade, and I am only 5'10".

[Art Mann]

Due to the blade being further back on the Ridgid compared to other contractor saws, it has a larger crosscut capacity than most. This fact was regarded as a desirable feature by Wood Magazine in their June/July 2005 issue that rated contractor saws. That review gave the Ridgid top honors of all the saws tested.

[Tim Marks]

Due to the blade being further back...
Guess Vic was right (and I was wrong) about the blade being in a different location then on other saws. My apologies, Vic.

Seems to make sense that you DON't want the blade in the middle of the table, since all of your setup to crosscut happens in front of the blade. It is easy to catch the wood after it falls off the blade onto a set of supporting rollers or what-not, but impossible to setup to do a good cut on rollers instead of the flat cast-iron surface.

[scott spencer]

Guess Vic was right (and I was wrong) about the blade being in a different location then on other saws. My apologies, Vic.

Seems to make sense that you DON't want the blade in the middle of the table, since all of your setup to crosscut happens in front of the blade. It is easy to catch the wood after it falls off the blade onto a set of supporting rollers or what-not, but impossible to setup to do a good cut on rollers instead of the flat cast-iron surface.

IIRC a similar discussion on another forum, ended up with some measurements of the center of the arbor fully raised to the front edge of the table. IIRC measurements of various saws were ~ 17" and were within an inch of each other. :confused: Anyone care to take a similar measurement to confirm?

[Art Mann]

I just took another look at the Wood magazine review. They listed width of crosscut for several saws. Their definition of capacity is the distance between the miter gauge full on the table and the blade. The Ridgid capacity was 13". The Crafrtsman 22114 was 12-1/4" and the Jet was 11-1/4". From that I judge there must be about 2" maximum difference in the distance from the table edge to the blade among various models - not a big deal but significant.

[scott spencer]

I just took another look at the Wood magazine review. They listed width of crosscut for several saws. Their definition of capacity is the distance between the miter gauge full on the table and the blade. The Ridgid capacity was 13". The Crafrtsman 22114 was 12-1/4" and the Jet was 11-1/4". From that I judge there must be about 2" maximum difference in the distance from the table edge to the blade among various models - not a big deal but significant.

Did that distant include the miter gauge bar length?

[Vic Damone]

It's unclear to me why this saw was designed with the blade set so far back in the table and such a high table hight. I'm 6'1" and it's almost a stretch.

Vic


Due to the blade being further back on the Ridgid compared to other contractor saws, it has a larger crosscut capacity than most. This fact was regarded as a desirable feature by Wood Magazine in their June/July 2005 issue that rated contractor saws. That review gave the Ridgid top honors of all the saws tested.

Art, thanks for pointing that out, that's a very sensible feature which I never understood.

Vic

[Tim Marks]

Did that distant include the miter gauge bar length?
I would definitely think that this measurement was really a discussion of size/dimensions of a miter gauge, and not necessarily table dimensions.

The Ridgid 3650 table is 37" tall (2-3" taller then most saws, Vic is right again, dag nab it.... but I like the height since you don't have to lean over as much...) The ridgid table is 27" deep, and it is 18" from the front of the table to the center of the arbor.

Anyone with a different brand of saw want to weigh in on their measurements to settle this arguement? Looking at Grizzly, their contractor saws measure 16" from front of table to center of blade, their Hybrid is 18", and their cabinet saw is 17".

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Wow! I can't believe over a month has gone by and i just got around to puttting the 3660 together.
I only managed to have 6 parts left over too! ;).
Honestly! There's 3 bolts and three nuts that I can;t figure out where they go. I've reread the manual 4 times and it makes no mention of them:confused:.

Anyhow - I put it together - got everything to within .001" and spun it up to make sure it worked.
Took all of Memorial Day to do it - but worth it.(9 to 4:30)

Man is it quiet compared to the Hitachi job site saw I have.

Thanks to everyone for the help.
I believe I'm a happy camper with this.

[john bateman]

Hello,

I only managed to have 6 parts left over too! ;).
Honestly! There's 3 bolts and three nuts that I can;t figure out where they go. I've reread the manual 4 times and it makes no mention of them:confused:.



If they are the square headed bolts, they are supposed to be used in the channels of the aluminum fence, for attaching jigs or sub-fences. You'll probably lose them before you ever need them.

[Jason White]

I have one and love it. You should grab it!

Jason




Hello,
I'm looking at the Ridgid TS3650 due to the sale HD is having right now/the fact that I have $225.00 in HD gift cards.
The reviews on the HD website are nothing short of glowing - avg. rating is 4.9 out of 5.
The only real complaint anyone has is the lack of a factory dado insert.

With all the features listed, this seems to be an extraordinary deal for the money - $549 minus $100 sale minus $225 Gift cards = $224.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello John,
Thanks!
I guess my first order of business will be to make a sacrificial fence using them so they won't get misplaced.

[Cj Stremick]

By this, do you mean is the motor enclosed inside the base of the saw, or does the motor itself have openings?
The motor is a TEFC motor so it's completely sealed - no openings on the motor. I think the previous poster was referring to the way it's mounted - off the back of the saw opposed to be enclosed within the base (like a cabinet saw).

[Dan Keeling]

If you want to get an even better deal, check out the AARP website. You typically can purchase additional HD gift cards there at a discount, if you know someone with an AARP membership number.

Would you be so kind as to provide a link? I know my parents would be most pleased to be able to take advantage of this.

[Todd Hoppe]

This is the most recent webpage that I was able to locate:

http://www.aarp.org/events-speakers/benefits-homesecurity/Articles/a2004-11-30-homedepot.html

The offer appears to still be valid

[Ken Lefkowitz]

Does anyone have any idea how to increase the size of the dust shroud to 4 inches for a dust collector? Or are there adapters to place on the end of the existing shroud.

Ken

[Todd Hoppe]

I once saw a nice online pictorial of how to do this. I will look if I have a chance. If I recall correctly, the writer said it didn't make a huge difference.

[Tom Hargrove]

I installed a 1/2" plywood bottom in the cabinet. I cut a hole in the plywood, and hung a 4"x10" register boot just below the factory supplied dust shroud outlet. I hook up my 4" collector hose to the register boot (be sure you get one with a 4" round connection), and it pulls the vast majority of the dust out of the cabinet, whether the saw is at 90 or 45 degrees. Some of the dust ends up laying on the plywood, but nothing comes out of the cabinet as long as the DC is turned on. I also blocked off a portion of the back of the cabinet which increases the volume and perhaps the velocity of the air coming through the balance of the openings. I think this helps draw the dust into the register boot.

[Matthew Dunne]

I once saw a nice online pictorial of how to do this. I will look if I have a chance. If I recall correctly, the writer said it didn't make a huge difference.

This might be what you're thinking of:
http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Ridgid/DcPort/TS3650_DcPort_Modification.html

[Ken Lefkowitz]

Tom how did you attach the plywood to the cabinet? Thanks for your help.

Ken

[Jason White]

I recently sold mine after 5 years of hard use and there's not a day that goes by that I don't miss it.
:(



Hello,
I'm looking at the Ridgid TS3650 due to the sale HD is having right now/the fact that I have $225.00 in HD gift cards.
The reviews on the HD website are nothing short of glowing - avg. rating is 4.9 out of 5.
The only real complaint anyone has is the lack of a factory dado insert.

With all the features listed, this seems to be an extraordinary deal for the money - $549 minus $100 sale minus $225 Gift cards = $224.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

I recently sold mine after 5 years of hard use and there's not a day that goes by that I don't miss it.

I've only had mine for a year now (time sure flies!) and I can easily relate to that.

It's a heck of a lot of saw for not a lot of money.

[Vic Damone]

I recently sold mine after 5 years of hard use and there's not a day that goes by that I don't miss it.
:(

I wish I could say that.

[James Carmichael]

Does anyone have any idea how to increase the size of the dust shroud to 4 inches for a dust collector? Or are there adapters to place on the end of the existing shroud.

Ken

Check out the latest FWW, there's a great article on improving TS dust collection and a plan for contractor's saws.

[Tom Adger]

I have had my 3660 for 4 mos now, and love it. I added a ZCI that I bought online, and a Forrest WWII blade. The Herculift is fussy to install, but it makes moving the saw very easy.

For anyone in my area, my local HD in Jensen Beach, FL has a couple left way up high in the racks.

[Tom Hargrove]

The plywood sits on the lip at the bottom of the cabinet. I used two pieces of plywood with the seam going left to right. I initially cut one piece, but there was not enough clearance to fit the piece in place. So I cut in in half, and they fit right in. I placed a strip about 2" wide across the seam on the outside of the bottom, which is screwed into both halves. This holds the bottom pieces together and in place. I used 1/2" plywood, but 1/4" or 3/8" would also work. You could also use a piece of sheet metal.

I will try to take photos tonight. However, I'm going out of town tomorrow morning for the weekend, so I may have honeydo's that become my main priority this evening. If I don't post them, send me a PM, and I'll do it when I get back.

[Ken Lefkowitz]

Thanks for the help guys. This dust collection thing is absolutely confusing.

Ken