Your finish of choice?

[Chris Yarish]

I am a beginner and often grapple with the different types of finishes one can apply to turning projects.
I have used tung oil and a Minwax paste wax. I can't say I'm very pleased with these as finishes....as compared to, say, some of the finishes I see on example projects in Lee Valley or in magazines. Many of the finishes mentioned in magazines I have never heard of, contain products I'd have no clue how to find, and don't speak to the specifics of mixing, proportions and/or its application.

What is you finish of choice?
If you wouldn't mind specifying actual "ingredients", proportions, project(s) best suited for, and application method, I will use this thread for future finishing references.

Thanks.

*edit*
For example....
For a pepper mill I use....
or
For a pen, I use.....
or
For a decorative bowl I use....
or
for a baseball bat I use

[Bernie Weishapl]

Chris I have pretty much narrowed my choices down to 3. Minwax Antique Oil for bowls, Hollow Forms, lidded boxes, Platters, etc. I will either use General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by Arm-R-Seal for utility items. I have started to use the Miniwax Antique Oil on utility items after talking with Ernie Conover who is a professional turner for a long time. Mini-birdhouses, ornaments, etc. I just use Deft spray can lacquer. Sometimes I will use Waterlox which is awful good but expensive and it will skin over after opening very fast. I tried a lot of different finishes and pretty muched settled on these.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Bernie, Can I assume you are Beal polising after using the Antique oil finish? Does it have any sheen?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Alan it will leave about any sheen you want depending on the number of coats. I put 4 to 5 coats on then Beall buff for a fairly glossy finish. If I want a glass looking gloss I will put maybe 7 or 8 coats on then buff. The HF's I have posted have been did that way. It takes a while to do it and could do it faster with a couple of coats of poly but I just like the look and feel. I always let the oil dry a week before buffing. Besides I am in no hurry.

[Bill Wyko]

Chris I use the same thing you do. The key to Tung oil is to let it cure for 5 minutes whipe off the excess then wait 24 hrs before steel wool and recoating. When you get to the 4th or 5th coat, figured woods look really nice. The first couple coats usually are so so.

[Bob Hallowell]

Peppermills- deft spray laquer
utility bowls- walnut oil
pens- ca
Art pieces- I normally use antquie oil, 2 coats wait a week beall buff to glass.

Bob

[Matt Hutchinson]

Right now I am using Watco wipe on poly, satin, for my decorative pieces. I should probably be using gloss, just cuz you can control how shiny or satin the finish is. Plus, I like this quick build I get with poly. For utility woodenware I just use mineral oil, but I think I may change to a different oil. I don't like lacquer just because water effects it too easily. Even if a drop gets on the surface, the finish can get messed up. At least that's been my experience. Quite frankly, there are so many choices out there, and I think any person could get a good finish with any product with a minimum of effort.

Hutch

P.S. I wax and buff by hand, too. Only because I haven't sprung for a buffing system yet.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks Bernie, I have to try your method. I'm getting tired of seeing my poly finishes ON the surface. I'd like to start beal polishing so I can feel the wood with a nice shine IN the wood.

[Allen Neighbors]

Presently: For utility bowls, nothing, except, if I have to fill a small crack on the outside with CA, I use my lacquer wash. For other utility pieces, Danish Oil or Antique Oil. For decorative pieces I spray on Pre-catalyzed Water-white Lacquer.

[Curt Fuller]

The two you mentioned, tung oil and paste wax, are some that I use in combination. A couple coats of tung or danish oil (I can't tell the difference in the results) followed by a good waxing and buffing. Wax alone looks nice at first but needs to be reapplied periodically as it fades. Most any finish out there requires a few coats with light sanding in between to get the kind of finish you see in the brochures. But one other thing to think about is the prep before applying any finish. Every flaw will be highlighted by the finish you use. So make sure you've sanded out all of the tool marks, sanding swirls, and anything else that you don't want to jump out with the finish, down to at least 400 grit. Some of the oily exotic woods start to finish themselves if you sand them with 800 grit or up. But none of the finishes will make up for inadequate prep.