Care of the tool rest

[Richard Kagen]

I am new busy making shavings... Taking the Raffen advice and not trying to make anything, but getting comfortable with the tools and lathe. Jet 1220 and some nice tools (ok I went a little out of control).

Problem at the moment is that my tool rests are getting nicked, making it hard to move smoothly. The iron seems very soft. I can clean them up with a file or a little diamond hone, but am I doing something wrong

[Bob Vallaster]

(1) Make sure the tool is on the rest before bringing the cutting edge to the wood. If the tool engages wood before it is solidly on the rest, a bang will result and the words, 'that's going to leave a mark...' will apply.
(2) Position the rest close to the wood to increase your mechanical advantage. This should reduce chatter and a tendency to bounce.
(3) For tools that have square edges along their length (scrapers, diamond-shaped parting tools, etc.), you can use a file to break/ease the edge... reducing the likelihood of their biting the rest.
(4) Roughing (square-to-round, anything in natural form) which involves edge-cutting-wood followed by edge-cutting-air, repeated at _____(pick your rpm) is going to be hard on the rest. Just goes with the territory.

There are $uper-duper rests out there using steel (drill rod) for the edge the tool bears on. I have managed to get by with the old cast iron rests for years and will continue to do so until I wear one out or break it.

Bob V.

[Clem Wixted]

Richard,

You should stop now before the bug bites you even worse.

Knowing that you won't, I didn't either, here are a few suggestions.

Definitely file the tool rest and get it as smooth as you can, taking out all of the nicks. Then using a file, or the fine grinding wheel, ease the corners of your tools along the long edges that contact the tool rest, so when they come down hard on the tool rest they won't make any more nicks.

Getting too many nicks may indicate that you are getting some catches that are causing the nicks. Try to eliminate what you did to get the catch. That is a whole other subject. :-)

Clem

An ex "neighbor" from Foxboro and Worcester.

[Ben Gastfriend]

Another option is to get some steel rod, the same diameter as your banjo hole, and get a local welder to weld you up some rests... like these...

86501

He'll probably do it for around $5 each if you bring him the pre-cut rod. Steel is alot stronger and more nick-resistant than iron. Make sure you get a couple, a curved one for bowls, and a couple straights in different legnths.

Good luck.

[George Troy]

Robust make some great tool rests with the special steel rod on the edge. The fulcum point is right there where you need it. www.robust.com (http://www.robust.com)

[Jim Underwood]

Like the others have said, file your tool rest smooth, and knock the sharp corners off of your tools. If you get tired of smoothing it out, you can also buy a little harder tool rest since the cast is pretty soft.

I'll also add that a little paste wax on the rest makes the tool slide smoothly for fine cuts.

[curtis rosche]

or you could do it the cheap way like we do at school. take your dented rest and take it to the belt sander smooth the edge so that the length of the rest is against the belt. then just use one of those rubber belt cleaners to clean the belt up. works like a charm. also, good idea to have one rest for roughing that can get dented then one for finishing so that the finishing one doesnt get dented.
sound like a good idea to any one else?

[Jim Becker]

Cast iron is much softer than the HHS your tools are made from, so you can expect some maintenance. A file, 80-100 grit sandpaper, etc., is all you need and don't forget to wax it afterward to keep any rust away. Excessive marking/gouging is, as someone mentioned, a sight that perhaps your tooling is knocking into the rest more than it should. And do ease any sharp edges on tools in the area that typically comes into contact with the tool rest.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

Adavanced Lathe Tools make Exellent Tool Rest with a Hardened Steel Rod Top that won't nick from HHS lathe tools. There Hand Made By Steve Sinner & Jerry Seargent. Their both members of the Chicago & Quad City Wood Tuners Clubs. Alot of members have bought them & They all seem to like them.

[Tom Hamilton]

Joe, how does one get in touch with these folks? Thanks, Tom

[Scott Hubl]

Hey Joe, have you got a link or pictures of them?

< Member of "The Windy City Woodturners" and now the AAW too. Do they give locals a discount?

[Richard Madison]

Richard,
Nothing wrong with Curtis' school method. Every year or three, sand smooth and straight on fixed belt sander (I use a 6x48), and smooth it a bit with finer sandpaper, fine file, or diamond hone.

[Gordon Seto]

The Jet 1220 may have a 5/8" tool post. The Robust rest has 1" post.
The Comfort rest from Robust is the best tool rest. The hardened steel rod is slick. Unlike the round tool rest, it leans forward. The fulcrum point is closer. Excellent for delicate work.

[Bruce Smith]

Richard, when filing the tool rest be sure and draw file it, a good quality mill file will do the job. Do not file 90 degrees to the rest as this usually causes hills and valleys which you don't want. Good Luck.....

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I'll see Steve & Jerry @ the monthly Woodturners Meeting tonight. I'll ask them the best way for someone to contact them,as of now they don't have a web site yet.
I'll try to post how to contact them on Wednesday.
Joe

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

Anyone interested in finding out more about there Tool Rest with the Hardened Steel Rod Top can email either Jerry Seargent @ sarge@mchsi.com
Or Steve Sinner @ ssiner@mchsi.com
If you want a picture Steve would be your better contact because he also is a very good photographer too.
Tell them they were recomemended by a me Joe Meirhaeghe a member of the Quad City Turners Club.
It won't get you any discount but they like to know how people learn about their tools, as they don't advertise & mostly sell from word of mouth from Club members & people who have & like there tools.