Craftsman 12" bandsaw questions

[jason mowery]

Good Afternoon Everyone!
I just got a Craftsman 12" bandsaw for next to nothing, and while I realize it wouldn't be anyone's first choice for a bandsaw, I figure I can learn on it and it'll meet various needs until I decide I want/need more. Anyway...
It has a 1/4" blade right now, and even after adjusting everything per the Craftsman manual, i have a heck of a time getting the blade to follow whatever curved line I've drawn on the wood. The blade sort of pushes away from the wood. Is this a technique problem, a result of the thin blade, both, neither, or just a symptom of a crappy saw? Does anyone have one of these saws? Are there any upgrades worth doing? Any adjustment tips? It's one of the ones with all the digital stuff, but I'm pretty sure the guts are the same as every other 12" craftsman saw. Thanks in advance for your help!

[Sam Yerardi]

I have a 12" Craftsman bandsaw and there is some work that you will need to do to enable it to track correctly. First thing, you need to make sure that the wheels are in the same plane with each other. Use a long true straight-edge to check this. If they're not in the same plane, they may need to be adjusted with shims, etc. With the power off, turn the wheels and pick the back of the blade like a guitar string. The pitch should stay relatively the same throughout the entire revolution of the wheels. If it doesn't, then one (or both) of the wheels is not circular (balanced). I've had to use a rasp to file the tires down to make then consistent so that they will be in balance. With the wheels in the correct plane, and the wheels balanced, open up the guide blocks as far as possible. Turn the wheels to make sure there is consistent travel of the blade through the guide area. I adjust the guide blocks in and have them rest next to the blade the thickness of a dollar bill. I then adjust the guide blocks forward until just the teeth are exposed. I then adjust the upper and lower rear support bearing wheels (behind the blade) until they almost turn as the blade travels past them. When there is the slightest pressure against the cutting edge, they will be supported by the rear bearing wheels. Make sure that the blade is tensioned properly. To do this, make sure that the spring adjustment area is cleaned of all dust. Otherwise, you can adjust the tension incorrectly but it will indicate that it is right.

Hope this helps.

[Loren Hedahl]

I also have a 12 inch Craftsman bandsaw. In addition to the wheel alignment above mine also had a problem with the post not being exactly vertical.

This resulted in the guides needing adjustment whenever they were raised or lowered. I had to file the case a bit to get the post to run exact vertical.

Once this was all done, it turned into a very nice saw. I usually run a 1/4 inch blade with 6 TPI for thin plywood and with 3 tpi for most solid wood work.

[Billy Dodd]

I also have the saw and am pleased with the performace. It sounds like the tention on the blade isn't tight enough and or the guide isn't down close to the work piece. As was stated be sure and adjust the blade guides.
Carter sells stuff for this saw if you feel you must but it works ok without adding stuff to it.

[Gary McKown]

Don't know how old yours is (mine is 1980 vintage), but I had less than satisfactory results with the stock blade (and a few Craftsman replacements) even after all the adjustments noted above. Finally bought some of the good ones from Suffolk Machinery and wow, what a difference.

The only upgrades I have made were adding CoolBlocks for blade guides, and replacing (after about 15 years) the tires that were worn and slipping. It still functions nicely for normal curved work, and will resaw hardwood up to 5"-6" - VERY slowly, of course.

[glenn bradley]

My 12" C-man (now long gone) turned out to be a pretty good saw after some tuning. Since the price was right on yours I would say it is worth some effort. Just don't expect it to become a 3HP beast just because you give it some TLC and all should be well.

My saw shaped up with the correction of non-coplanar wheels, installation of some decent rear guide bearings (standard and available most anywhere that wells such things), $12 or so for some cool blocks, shimming the guide post (it never would remain accurate when moved so I shimmed each time) and of course the thing that made the most difference . . . Timberwolf blades. They're around $15 a pop in your size and well worth the money.

Mine was a good learner saw and depending what kind of work you do, it could just become your keeper.

[jason mowery]

Thanks for all the suggestions fellas, I really appreciate it! I'll give them a try as soon as I get a chance! What a great resource this forum is!

[Charlie Plesums]

I am a fan of Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery, but most of all, remember that a regular bandsaw blade only lasts a few hours, at most. I have met several people who discovered they had a pretty good bandsaw when they finally broke down and bought a new blade.