Fresh cut maple needs sealing

[Chris Barnett]

Have numerous sections of freshly cut maple needing end treatment for storage (until I get the new lathe installed). Have a half gallon or so of a waxy feeling wood sealer (was given to me so not sure what it is), and four to five gallons of wood siding sealer left by my builder. Is this type of siding sealer affective for log section ends?
Can get to the Woodcrafters but how far does a gallon go, of Anchorseal or whatever they carry? Uh, forget Woodcrafters...they charge $10 a quart. Must be needing to pay for the Bermuda place!
Recently tried both latex and oil based paint on the ends of other logs but the sections cracked and check badly, and are now worthless. Would like to have some success this time in sealing wood until I can start turning with my new PM.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

I don't see why you couldn't go over whatever you put on the wood with Anchorseal (whatever Woodcraft calls it) once the finish has cured. The wax emulsion is water based so there's no problem with compatibility...not that you're trying for a furniture finish anyway. :) If you don't have other use for your leftover finishes might as well do something with them, but it would be a shame to let good wood ruin to save a few bucks.

I put the Anchorseal on pretty heavy - I coated a pecan last week that was about 3 1/2' top and bottom and it took roughly four cupfuls (wag) and I coated both ends twice. Unless you have a goodly number of large trees a quart may do you. This is dependent on pretty smooth chainsaw cuts, too. I use an old paint brush to put it on (commercial operations spray it) and when I finish I put the brush in a zip-loc bag for reuse and have kept one for about a year with no problems - it didn't dry out or mold.

The waxy feeling sealer you were describing is probably sanding sealer, which has zinc stearate (soap) in it for a fast buildup. I works reasonably well if you really slop it on. I am not familiar with the other material you described.

[Chris Barnett]

Will use the sealer first, and find Anchorseal or equivalent at a decent price and apply that as well. Have maybe 10-12 log sections from 18 to 24 inch diameter, and as long, which will take a lot of sealer. Can each end of a log section just be sealed as is to prevent cracking, or is it necessary to cut in half and remove the pith which initiates the cracking? Thanks.

[Al Weber]

Highland Woodworking has Anchor Seal for about $17 a gallon. I bought a gallon several years ago and have end coated many logs in that time and have only used about 1 1/2 quarts of it as it goes a long way. You can also use left over latex paint but make sure you apply several coats as it soaks in quickly. I'm not sure whether oil based paints work as well or not.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Just coat the end(s) of the logs. Taking the heart out is a good way to process the logs, but Anchorsealing the ends is what is done prior to having the logs milled. From what I've seen and done.....and I will admit I don't have years and years experience, some woods will crack (oak is bad about this) regardless what you do. And agian, for what I've seen, most of the time if the pith checks it usually doesn't run far if the end has been sealed. Good luck with your haul.

[Chris Barnett]

Ready to go out to buy some Anchorseal, but first, other than WC, do any of the big box stores or paint type companies typically carry it. Have already spent big bucks for PM and some tools etc. at WC so have been nice to them already, and need to give the other stores some business :rolleyes:. Thanks for the info on good coverage...makes me feel a little better. Outfitting an entire shop, so must be very frugal where I can for a while.
Found at UC Coatings via a previous Jim Beckers post....five gallons now for $57; should be here by Friday. Thanks for info Jim.