Best Router For A Dovetail Jig ??

[Rob Will]

What features should a dedicated router for a dovetail jig have?...........

1/2" collet?
D-handle?
Side-handles?
Soft start?
Variable speed?
What Brand / model is your favorite?

How much horsepower / weight works best on a dovetail jig?

Thanks,
Rob

[Al Navas]

Rob,
Will you be doing a LOT of dovetails?
Will you use it regularly?
Will you be doing through, as well as half-blind dovetails?
Will you be doing inlaid dovetails?
Will you be making small, or large dovetails?I am sure others will have additional questions, and opinions as well.

I prefer to use a plunge router - in the shop I use either the DW618, or the DW625. Others might prefer to use two routers, and leave each one set up with the proper bit. So, the answers to the questions above might help narrow the router selection.

Soft start is pretty much standard on modern 3 HP routers, although such a large beast is not required, especially if you will be routing only smaller dovetails.


.

[Roy Wall]

Like Al, I'd go with the DW 618 - fixed base or D-handle. Anything around 2 hp is about right. 1/2" collet (the way to go), soft start, and VS are standard on this router and its competitors.

[Bob Hallowell]

A fixed base model you get a good deal on that once you get the height dailed in the bit doesn't get removed til it need replaced and you only used it for the dovetail jig.

Bob

[Bryan Berguson]

I found out that 1.5 hp is not enough. Had alot of chatter. Switched to a Freud 3.25hp plunge router and had no trouble after that.

Bryan

[Jim Becker]

Simple works just fine for dovetails. Fixed base for lower center of gravity and easier precise depth changes. 10-12 amp. VS not required, but still nice to have. I generally use my DW618 in the fixed base for this.

[J. Z. Guest]

I use a DW616 (the single speed model) for mine. It works great, and I don't miss the variable speed.

I have an external variable speed control available, and it is of no use for dovetails.

To me, rather than spend a lot on a router for a dovetail jig, spend less, on TWO single speed routers, and leave them set up with the bits and depth settings you'll be using for the majority of your work. Not having to change bits is the real key to efficiency.

[Ron Bontz]

I use a bosch 1617 and a porter cable 895 for my dovetailing because I like the ease of router bit adjustment and the HP. I have 8mm adapters for both since I use the leigh D4 and 8mm bits. Seems to work well for me. Best of luck.:)

[glenn bradley]

I run a Milwaukee 5615 fixed speed, body grip with an offset base. The body grip feels better to me but, that's me, not you ;-)

[Johnny Kleso]

I too have a Millwaukee 5615 1 3/4 hp with body grip and like it a lot on my Leigh jig..

You can pick them up factory recon. on eBay with full 5 year warranty for a song, also try used link at amazon..

I paid $76 plus shipping for mine but had to buy a bushing guide sub plate for $5.** from amazon as its not included..

[Rob Will]

Thanks all,
Doyou have any suggestions / tricks for cutting variable spaced, narrow pin, half blind dovetails? I really like the traditional look.

I'm trying to figure out if the PC Omnijig is worth the money.

Rob

[Larry Prince]

Don't overlook the Triton 2.25HP model. It has plenty of power and the ease of height adjustment is a joy to use. And at $199 from http://www.Sommerfeldtools.com it's hard to beat. (That includes shipping, I think). It's also available from Woodcraft for slightly more.

It also comes with a slew of accessories, including the collar you need with most dovetail jigs.

I was a diehard Bosch fan for over 15 years but I shifted to Triton about six months ago and now own 2 of the 2.25HP models and have a 3.25HP unit in my router table. All perform flawlessly, and did I mention that the ease of height adjustment is a joy to use?

[Brian Penning]

I have a couple of PC 690s dedicated for my PC dovetail jig. Having separate routers for the pins and tails is so convenient. Saves a lot of time with adjustments and changing bits.

[Rob Will]

I have a couple of PC 690s dedicated for my PC dovetail jig. Having separate routers for the pins and tails is so convenient. Saves a lot of time with adjustments and changing bits.

Brian,
Would you be so kind as to tell me exactly which bits you would use for cutting narrow pin dovetails? Any particular brand or part numbers?
I like the concept of using two separate routers.
Thanks,
Rob

[Lee Schierer]

You will want to avoid tall routers. I tried my Frued FT 2000 on my Rockler dovetail jig and it was very easy to tilt the router causing the slots to be cut at varying depths. The weight of the router combined with the heith caused the guide to deflect during the cut. So shorter is better when cutting dovetails.

[Denny Rice]

I know this my be skewing off the subject a little bit, while I think the HP of the router is important, it is relative to what type of wood you are creating the dovetails in and how thick the stock is. I have used a 1.5 HP router I have had for yrs with great sucess in my dovetail jig. Saying that I'm not sure if I'm cutting large dovetails in 3/4" oak if 1.5 HP would be enough. I will tell you this, the shank of your router bits 1/4" vs 8mm when creating dovetails will make a very big difference. I always use 8mm bits when possible, I just like the "feel" of my 8mm bits (very little vibration) within the router when creating dovetails.

[Brian Penning]

Brian,
Would you be so kind as to tell me exactly which bits you would use for cutting narrow pin dovetails? Any particular brand or part numbers?
I like the concept of using two separate routers.
Thanks,
Rob

I just have the relatively simple PC 4212. Don't beleive you can use other bits to make narrow dovetails. BTW I like the jig.

[Al Navas]

You will want to avoid tall routers. I tried my Frued FT 2000 on my Rockler dovetail jig and it was very easy to tilt the router causing the slots to be cut at varying depths. The weight of the router combined with the heith caused the guide to deflect during the cut. So shorter is better when cutting dovetails.
The new Vacuum and Router Support (VRS) helps a LOT with large routers - I don't know if it works with dovetail jigs other than Leigh's, though. I use it with the Leigh D4, and walk away from it totally confident it will still be there when I return :) ------ Al

http://www.leighjigs.com/images/VRS%20pg%20N28.jpg

[John Keeton]

Whichever small, fixed base, router that you can find at your local pawn shop for under $30. Just bought a well used, but very solid Bosch for $30 out the door to go with the DeWalt I already had so I can have dedicated pin/tail routers. I think I have $25 in the DW.

I will only do dovetails a few times a year depending on the project, so it just isn't worth it to me to put a lot into this setup. Others may have different needs.

If I did a lot of them, the setup in Al's post with the D4 would be ideal!!

[Randy Mack]

Not sure if this is solely a Porter Cable 690 issue, but I have had to re-tighten the collet several times while cutting dovetails using a Leigh D4 jig. I have used the 8mm bits in the adapter and in a Porter Cable 8mm collet. Once the bit slips, it ends up extending more from the base of the router and damaging the work piece. Any one else have this problem? I am thinking about changing brands, maybe dewalt or milwaukee. Maybe I am pushing it too hard in maple, but don't think so.

At any rate I don't recommend Porter Cable 690 for dovetails. Also as it gets older the fixed base and body don't slide well, even after a little 600 grit paper and wax applied. This makes it hard to fine adjust the depth. BTW mine is about 20 years old.

[pat warner]

Plunger, maybe 621 DeWalt, in my view, is the best choice.
Depth of cut, of all DT fixture variables, is the most critical, then comes cutter centeredness, then maybe power and ergonomics.
Plungers can hit prescribed depths of cut (http://patwarner.com/images/621_offset_3.jpg)faster & more acurately then fixed base tools.

[Mark Carlson]

I have a couple of PC 690s dedicated for my PC dovetail jig. Having separate routers for the pins and tails is so convenient. Saves a lot of time with adjustments and changing bits.

Me too. I suggest two 690's with Pat Warner clear offset sub bases. It allows you to see what your doing. I got mine on amazon for 85 bucks.

~mark

[John Lucas]

I am presently reviewing the new PC OmniJig and use two PC690,s. I wish they had soft start but they are D-handlrd units (693??) so the ON/OFF doesnt bother me. As to the bits, that depends on the jig. The Omni and variable spaced fingers requires 7° DT cutters and that narrow angle looks most like hand cut IMHO. But you will not find that many 7° templates around...and you have to use the bit that the template is desgned for.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/PC-Omn38.jpg

Here's the story: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/PC-OmniJig-1.htm

[Joe Scharle]

1/2" collet?
All the finger jigs that I've seen use 1/4" or 8mm shanks with a 1/2" cutting dia.(I seem to recall PC's bit is something odd like 17/32)
D-handle?
I've never felt the need for a D handle on a DT jig
Side-handles?
Comfortable for me
Soft start?
Wouldn't have a router without it
Variable speed?
Ditto
What Brand / model is your favorite?
If you've ever had the body lock let go with a DT bit under the fingers, you'd never use a plunger for DTing! Even with a lock down knob, my Freud rose up 1/32 after an hour cutting dados.

How much horsepower / weight works best on a dovetail jig?
I prefer to use my big Milwaukee. Solid, powerful.

I have a Rockler type fixed finger, Leigh Super that I won and a Woodrat. Although the Woodrat is not a jig in the standard sense, it lets me use 1/2"/8mm/1/4" shanks with a cutting dia of any size. I have an 8mm that makes a 7/8" deep 1/4" dia cut. Both the fixed finger, which I use for kitchen/vanity drawers etc., and the Leigh require a 1/2" cutting dia bit.
Don't know if I answered any of your questions, but my best advice is to find a shop buddy with a jig/any jig and play with it. In 15 minutes you'll have answered most of your questions for yourself.
Good luck,
Joe

[Alan Heffernan]

D Handle PC works great.

[Steve Clardy]

D-handle PC 690 on a PC4212 jig.

I fixed the tough slide problem by getting one of Pat Warners clear sub bases.

[Fred Floyd]

I use a DW618 as Becker does. I found one on a closeout at Sears for $100 about 5 years ago. It was missing a couple of parts I didn't need. It has had the dovetail bit in it from the beginning. I have never had any issues with being underpowered as it is 2.25hp.