Door hinge question

[Mark Stutz]

Well, I'm still working on the same cabinet I've asked other questions about. I've finished the lower cabinet and got the inset door hung. The door for the top cabinet is alnost 4 feet tall. I'm planning on using 3 hinges. Although I'm expecting this one to be easier (the second is always easier than the first, right?:D), I'm not relishing taking this thing on and off several times to fit it, like the first.

Is there a problem...that I can't foresee at present...with mortising just the stile, after the dry fit is complete, and then gluing up the door? Sure seems like it would be a lot easier, but want to make sure I'm not missing something.

Mark

[Jim Koepke]

I am not sure, but it seems any slight misalignment would be magnified over the width of the door.

Have to leave right now, but will try to remember to post a trick a carpenter taught me about making a door line up. This is for a door using butt hinges. Not sure if it will work for other types of hinges.

jim

[Robert Rozaieski]

I've been thinking about this one since yesterday and I can't immediately think of a reason it shouldn't work, but as you said, I feel like I'm overlooking something. Why not give it a try, dry fit it again and let us know how it worked :D ? If you don't glue it up right away, you can always take it apart and remake the stile if you did in fact overlook something.

[Bob Smalser]

Is there a problem...that I can't foresee at present...with mortising just the stile, after the dry fit is complete, and then gluing up the door? Sure seems like it would be a lot easier, but want to make sure I'm not missing something.


What you're missing is the fitting. If you think you can dry fit the door pieces in the opening before assembly, mortise the stile for hinges, and then glue it all together dead square and plus or minus a 64th, then plan on some waste.

I don't see what all the trial and error is about. Fit the assembled door in the opening using wedges. Mount the door hinges on the carcase. Refit the door using wedges skewing it partly open to make it fit atop the unmortised hinge. Carefully transfer the hinge locations from mounted hinge to door stile using a marking knife. Mortise and mount the hinges using chisels and Vix bits.

Next time if you want easier try European Blum hinges. If you want harder try knife hinges and bullet hinges.

[Jim Koepke]

This is for doors in a house hung with two hinges.
It may be able to transfer to other doors depending on the hinges.
Used it at a friends house and he was amazed.

When hanging a door, one should do all that they can to avoid needing this trick. This does work well if a small error is made or in an older house that has settled. On hanging a new door if the hinge mortise is cut too deep, then shims the same size as the hinge may be of help.

See illustration (attachment) below.

If the gap between the door and the frame tapers to be narrow at the top, then place a shim made of material like a cereal box or business card, between the frame and the top hinge at 'A'. If the gap is wider at the top, place the shim at 'B'.

The shims should only be about 1/4 - 3/8" wide X the length of the hinge. (They should be less than a third of the width of the hinge.) More than one may be needed. Combinations of shims may be needed at both the bottom and top. If needed, punch a hole in the shim to accomodate the screw, but the geometry of this starts loosing some effect if the shim is too wide.

This may be of help or may be something just to keep in memory until the day it is needed.

jim