OMG, easy colorfill

[Craig Hogarth]

I was reading an article by Pat Holley, Dynamic Trophies and Awards in Shreveport LA about his "30 second colorfill." Actually quite simple and doesn't require a mask.

In a nuthshell, you engrave like you normally do, raising speed by about 20%. He also mentioned that lighter blacks do give contrast with darker blacks. After you engrave, spray the entire thing with black spray paint. Using a marble block with a paper towel wrapped around it, spray WD-40 on the towel and use it to wipe the paint off. Start top to bottom then using a new towel, go right to left.

So I did this test using 100p, 70sp. Not perfect by any means, but better than anything I've been able to do with a mask and it literally only took 30 seconds. There's still a little bit of bleeding in the engraving, but I'm gonna try waxing it prior to engraving next time. The rectangle is made of 5 strips, the top and bottom 100% black, the second from top and bottom 50% and the middle is 25%. You can see a difference, more so in person than the picture, but Im going to try for more contrast next time with lower levels of black and possibly higher speed on raster.

If you have some scrap and a can of WD-40, it's definitely worth trying.

http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/5278/graphic5vf2.png

[Mike Null]

Craig

I like the speed of this process but the result is not saleable as long as there is bleeding into the grain of the wood.

I've tried many things to prevent the bleeding of color into the wood and sometimes a clear coat works, sometimes shellac brushed into the engraved area works but I've yet to find anything totally satisfactory for all light woods.

Spraying of course requires a mask. Brushed on shellac does not.

I have generally been opposed to the idea using wax to fill the pores of the wood as it seems it would lessen the adhesion of the paint. (maybe I should try it)

Some are saying powder coat paint brushed in works--haven't tried that either.

[Richard Rumancik]

. . .I have generally been opposed to the idea using wax to fill the pores of the wood as it seems it would lessen the adhesion of the paint. (maybe I should try it)

Some are saying powder coat paint brushed in works--haven't tried that either.

Mike, it does seem "wrong" to apply a wax to something that you want to paint. I think what saves this method is that the lasered surface has enough roughness to it that even with the waxy spray it anchors the paint well enough to satisfy most people. As well, the painted area is usually quite recessed so is not vulnerable to flaking or peeling as there are no exposed edges. To be honest I still tend to resist using this method.

I have tried a sample of the "SmokeWood" product (LazerDarc) which is some kind of black powder - I don't know what it is but it might be powder-coat powder. It seemed to work well from what I saw. It costs $59/lb. I like the procedure as it doesn't require chemicals and spray paint etc., but does use furniture polish. I don't really care for the smell of WD40.

I have also experimented with masking and using clear before painting (to stop bleeding) but there is still a very high risk of a reject after a lot of time has been put into a plaque. And I don't like picking off bits of masking paper after it has been lasered through.

Has anybody here experimented with black powder for powder coat as a darkener?

[Craig Hogarth]

Richard, I currently use black laser toner to color fill. Small rastered areas such as text come out great, but it's inconsistent on larger rastered areas as it darkens makes the grain darker than the rest of the wood. Customers like the appearance though.

[Mark Winlund]

I have tried a sample of the "SmokeWood" product (LazerDarc) which is some kind of black powder - I don't know what it is but it might be powder-coat powder. It seemed to work well from what I saw. It costs $59/lb.


I believe that is toner for laser copiers and printers. It cn be had for a very reasonable price... just call your local copier repair man... he probably has crates full of obsolete toner.

Mark

[Craig Hogarth]

I believe that is toner for laser copiers and printers. It cn be had for a very reasonable price... just call your local copier repair man... he probably has crates full of obsolete toner.

Mark

It's not the same stuff. Laserdarc claims that you can fill it with their powder and raster over it to permanently color the engraving. Using their suggested settings, it won't work with laser toner. Actually, I've tried dozens of settings and I'm unable to get the toner to do what laserdarc claims they can do.

Also, laserdarc has colors which aren't available in laser toner, including white.

[Richard Rumancik]

It's not the same stuff. Laserdarc claims that you can fill it with their powder and raster over it to permanently color the engraving. Using their suggested settings, it won't work with laser toner. Actually, I've tried dozens of settings and I'm unable to get the toner to do what laserdarc claims they can do.

Also, laserdarc has colors which aren't available in laser toner, including white.

I have tried toner and it often works fine, but based on my limited experimentation with LazerDarc I felt it worked better and more consistently. When I used toner it was also in conjunction with Pledge because it needs something to help anchor the particles. Otherwise, if you drop the plaque face-down on a table much of the toner will fall out.

I only had a small packet of LazerDarc to try. The fact that they suggest "baking" the colors with the second pass of the laser for some applications does tend to support it being a polymer of some sort. Bulk powder for powder coat is basically very finely ground plastic. I have not tried the second pass method with LazerDarc.

Toner is also a polymer - mostly ABS, styrene, and carbon black although the recipes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. But I have a three brands of toner here and I agree that LazerDarc does not seem to act or appear like toner.

Your samples look pretty good, Craig, but having ruined a few things with paint I am always concerned about wicking. It would be good if someone discovered a material that would plug up the pores in the engraved area but would still permit good adhesion to paints etc. Most of the magazines suggest wax but normally you remove wax for good paint adhesion.

Whatever is used needs to be compatible with the paint - eg clear lacquer to fill and then pigmented "lacquer" paint as a topcoat. Not all paints, lacquers, and shellacs are compatible with each other.

[Craig Hogarth]

I have tried toner and it often works fine, but based on my limited experimentation with LazerDarc I felt it worked better and more consistently. When I used toner it was also in conjunction with Pledge because it needs something to help anchor the particles. Otherwise, if you drop the plaque face-down on a table much of the toner will fall out.

With toner, I just use an electric toothbrush to work it into the wood. I'm gonna test it out with pledge now though. Have you tried doing the second pass with toner like they suggest with the laserdarc? This is something i've not been successful with when using toner.

[Mike Null]

Harbor Freight sells a good sized jar of powder coat for about $6.

BTW, I just did a number of alder plaques and used black car wax (Turtle) to darken some of the lines around the foil on the plaque. It was just ok--not really the answer.

[Craig Hogarth]

Have you tried rastering around the foil? I put a small contour around the text/graphic when using foil. It gives a dark contrast round the foil and makes weeding easier.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/861/laserfoilml3.jpg

[Mike Null]

Craig

That is sop for me but this wood would not darken sufficiently so the fill was necessary. (Chinese alder plaques from JDS)

On the matter of foil, I have three regular jobs which require foil. They are a real hassle due to tiny parts of the engraving sometimes coming of during cleaning.

The highlights of foil are teriffic but if I add any more customers who want foil they will pay dearly.

[Jason Smalling]

Hello, the best way to color fill that I have found is to do the following. First the plaque has to be completely finished. May sure that the plaque has been stained and sealed with lacquer or polyurethane. Either brushed on or sprayed. Next laser the plaque like you normally would making sure the wood is engraved at least 1/64". Next, take some acrylic paint from Michaels or Wal-mart craft section, and squeeze some out onto the plaque. Take a squeegee made for window tint, and spread the paint over the entire plaque. Let dry for around 30 minutes, and then take a damp rag and wipe off the excess. After that spray a final coat of lacquer or poly to seal it all. I have done several plaques all different colors and shades, and all with excellent results. No bleeding, or mask to worry about because I use acrylic, which is a little thicker than oil based paints. After lasering, I can fill the plaque in about 15 seconds. Good luck, and hope it helps!!