Titebond III ?

[Jacob Reverb]

Anyone using it? Pros? Cons?

I'm a big fan of Titebond II but haven't tried Titebond III yet, and may not even try it, being that I've been so pleased with the performance of Titebond II.

[Peter Quadarella]

I use Titebond III. It's supposed to have a slightly longer open time, a little more water resistance, and useable in slightly colder temperatures. If you're not having a problem with II on these items, there's probably no reason to change.

[Jim Becker]

Titebond III is what I use primarily these days. I like it a lot including the color which works very well with the cherry I tend to build with.

[Brian W Evans]

I have used titebond III on several outdoor projects made out of northern white cedar. After being outside 24/7 (in Vermont) for 5 years, the joints are still as tight as the day I took the clamps off. That being said, there is a definite color difference between titebond II & III. I've heard many people say this was a problem for them.

[Clint Schlosser]

I have used it to make mug's out of wood. Specifically I made one with Sycamore. You check out the pictures on my webpage (www.demechman.com) under the gallery link under the album labeled Mugs. I coated the mug with epoxy, however during turning and hollowing I saw zero cracks, it was solid stuff.

[Peter Quinn]

I use titebond III almost exclusively at this point, unless a glue up requires a lot of glue and absolutely no moisture resistance, which for me is rare. I like the color when dried, it seems to creep less over time, and the open time is a bit better.

Type III has to meet the Type 1 water resistance. I read the test for that recently. I think they boil the fully cured joint for 4 hours, bake it in a 300 degree oven till dry again, then boil it again, then stress test the joint? Maybe somebody knows the exact regimine, but it was extreme.

I never boil and bake my projects, nice to know I could!

[david kramer]

Lately I've been using Titebond II Extend without problems. It promises 15 mins of open time, and I probably get close to that, definitely more than 10 mins. The extra open time makes glue ups a lot calmer. I can't glue two square blocks of wood together in less than 5 mins ;).

David

[Jeff Duncan]

I used to use the II but decided there was no real benefit for what I make to justify paying more. Now I just use the regular old TB I and haven't ever had any glue related problems.
If your building things that need to be weather resistant than I suppose it could be beneficial.
JeffD

[Chris Padilla]

I have used titebond III on several outdoor projects made out of northern white cedar. After being outside 24/7 (in Vermont) for 5 years, the joints are still as tight as the day I took the clamps off. That being said, there is a definite color difference between titebond II & III. I've heard many people say this was a problem for them.

Has TB III been out for 5 years?

[John Michaels]

There was a recent post here about Titebond III and it's tendency to creep. I've used it alot and have noticed a slight ridge on my glued up table tops that wasn't there before. Maybe it was wood movement, maybe the glue, not sure.

[Raymond Fries]

I use this alot and have not had any problems. I also use the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. It takes about an hour to set so this is really great if you need alot of time for positioning.

[J. Z. Guest]

Last time I was buying it, I chose TBIII due to the colder temps in which it would work. I work in my garage in the winter, where it gets very cold.

My stuff usually doesn't end up outdoors, so the moisture resistance was no real benefit to me.

I have found that TBIII doesn't want to come out of clothes once dried. I think TBI would be much better in this regard. Can someone confirm?

I'll probably buy TBI or TBII Extend next time, and poly for the outdoor stuff.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

I have found that TBIII doesn't want to come out of clothes once dried. I think TBI would be much better in this regard. Can someone confirm?

Yep. For some reason, I tend to wipe excess glue off my fingers and onto my jeans. TBI always came out in the wash. I was using TBIII one day and didn't even think about it... but many months later, the glue spots are still in/on my jeans and they've been washed dozens upon dozens of times.

Since then, I've tried real hard to use shop towels instead of my jeans. :D

Paul

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use Tightbond III almost exclusively. The waterproof nature of it helps with general woodworking, and at the local borg I found a half dozen bottles for a buck apiece.

Doc

[Jacob Reverb]

FWIW, I've used TBII for outdoor stuff (barn doors, etc.), and have found it to be completely satisfactory for water resistance. Not sure I would use it in an open boat, but I'm also not sure I wouldn't, either! :D

[John Keeton]

Chris

Believe TBIII came out in 2004.

[David DeCristoforo]

I'm waiting for Titebond 3.1

[Peter Quadarella]

I heard they were coming out with Titebond 2008 Service Pack 3.

[Cody Colston]

Titebond III has twice the open time of the I and II versions, has superior strength and Type I water resistance which means it is waterproof. Titebond II has Type II water resistance while Titebond I is not suitable for outdoor use at all.

About the only reason not to use Titebond III is cost as it is a little more expensive than the other two.

For PVA glue, I now use TBIII exclusively and don't concern myself with the glue color. If the joints are suitably tight that is a moot point, anyway.

[Bob Genovesi]

I use both Titebond ll and Titebond lll but it ultimately depends on the application and where it will be used.

Titebond lll allows a longer open time to work, it is water resistant once it's dried. It provides a stronger joint bond however c;amp time is increased as well, which is not a problem but the user does need to be aware.

I'll give both of them a thumbs up!.........http://img126.exs.cx/img126/997/36_1_11.gif

[Joe Meazle]

But this glue goes up to eleven.

[Chris Padilla]

I use both Titebond ll and Titebond lll but it ultimately depends on the application and where it will be used.

Very true. I recently picked up some Titebond I--the one with the red cap. Why?

I was gluing up door casings on the floor and wanted a very strong initial tack and short open time and fast drying time. Worked great! Had my local place had Titebonds Molding and Trim glue (which has even stronger initial tack and an even shorter open time), I would have picked that up.

I've got I, II, II-extend open time, and III on my shelf in the garage. Also have various epoxy, CA, and even some poly GG. :) They all have their uses.

[Chris Padilla]

Chris

Believe TBIII came out in 2004.


Wow...time flies! Seems it has only been out a couple of years. Looks like I may use it on my cedar gate project now! :)

[John Thompson]

I've switched from II to III for the open time as I often have some large glue-ups. Several mentioned that the color dries different on the III vs the I and II. And that is correct.

With that said, my question is "why" would the color be a factor once dry in which you choose?

Sarge..

[Jesse Cloud]

I use them all, TB1 is cheaper and has a shorter clamp time - and its the only one that will wash out of your clothes. TBI has more creep than others, but thats not necessarily a bad thing in mortise and tenon. I use TBII for lams - better penetration than the others, less creep. TBIII is the answer for outdoor work - I hate poly glue. I also use TB - cold press for veneer work. I would say, though, that I use way more TBI than all the others put together.

[Howard Acheson]

Yep. For some reason, I tend to wipe excess glue off my fingers and onto my jeans. TBI always came out in the wash. I was using TBIII one day and didn't even think about it... but many months later, the glue spots are still in/on my jeans and they've been washed dozens upon dozens of times.

Since then, I've tried real hard to use shop towels instead of my jeans. :D

Paul

As said above, the ANSI specification for an adhesive to be labeled "water proof" is that it successfully pass a series of tests. One is repeated immersions in boiling water for extended periods.

That being the case, washing in water is not going to remove dried adhesive. That's the reason it's called "water proof".

[Brian W Evans]

Has TB III been out for 5 years?

Might be 4 years. I moved into my current house in the summer of 2003 and I made the projects before the summer of 2004. I'm sure it's TBIII because I was looking for epoxy when someone told me about the new, waterproof TB. Either way, I'm very impressed at the performance of the glue, especially since I didn't put any finish on the projects (I like the weathered, rough look of the cedar).

[Ben Rafael]

I've had creep from TBIII. I've never had it from TBII.

[Brian Dormer]

I can't cite my source - because I can't find the article - but I read a glue review that said based on testing and the manufacturers specs, that TBII was stronger than TB and TBIII (TBII was the highest strength of all the glues tested). Of course if you need waterproof glue TBIII is probably the better choice. I use TBII for everything except outdoor stuff and haven't had any joints come apart. I also greatly exceed the clamp time recommendations - I clamp EVERYTHING overnight. It's probably overkill - but sometimes overkill is what you want.

[Jacob Reverb]

I can't cite my source - because I can't find the article - but I read a glue review that said based on testing and the manufacturers specs, that TBII was stronger than TB and TBIII (TBII was the highest strength of all the glues tested).

I could have sworn that's what I read too...and so I checked...but now on the Titebond website they say TB3 is stronger than TB2. I don't think they specified the ASTM test they used...I smell marketing.

[tim harris]

I can vouch for that TBIII not coming out of cloth and such!. I spilled a small amount on the front seat of my car. Its still there after 3 years!