Gluing wood that has been dyed

[Terry Teadtke]

Haven’t worked with material dyed with a water based dye yet and was wondering if a dyed surface can be glued with yellow glue to another dyed surface or if the surfaces have to be glued up before they are dyed. If dyed surfaces can be glued together does the dye create weaker joint compared to a joint without dye?

Thanks

Terry


Almost forgot

What's the best glue for gluing small thin parts say about 1/2" around and an 1/8" thick; too small to be clamped. I knew a gentleman that built large RC airplanes with birch frames and he used a type of Super Glue. Would a Super Glue be as strong of a joint as if I could have use yellow glue and clamps?

[Joe Chritz]

Not sure on the dye question but my idea is that it would reduce the bond of regular yellow glue.

Ca is probably not as strong as PVA glue but may well be stronger than you need anyway.

You can tape down the piece to act as a pseudo clamp until the glue dries. You may also be able to rub the joint and have it stay, depending on the application.

Joe

[mike holden]

The dye is so small, there is no problem gluing the wood. Glue lines are another matter. So are glue smears. They will both be obvious, if care is not taken.
However, dye is forgiving to repair, so sand the joint and reapply the dye.
Mike

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

You said "water" and "dyed." Dyes are not pigments and are not particulate matter. Dyes dissolve and go into solution. Pigments are merely particulate matter suspended in a solution. ERGO: the Dye will not interfere with the bonding process.

It's my understanding that this is common practice among Gun Stock and other fancy wood products manufacturers.

I've tried using oil based stains (pigments) and glues. The result was not so grand as to repeat the experiment

But Water based dyes~? Now that's a whole different critter.

Go for it.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, you can glue dyed wood with regular PVA glue...as long as you haven't already sealed the dye with de-waxed shellac. But there is the issue of glue squeeze out since the moisture in the glue will re-dissolve the dye. You should either be VERY careful during glue up or dye and seal prior to glue up, masking off for glue lines. I use that particular method on many projects, especially cabinetry.

[Travis Gauger]

I have glued up dyed panels with great results. I used regular wood glue. titebond II I want to say. Be real carefull with the glue squeeze out though. Wiping with a wet rag don't cut it. It gets into the pores and when dry is very noticable. I have been using blue painters tape on each side of the joint. It's been working OK, but I'd love an easier method. I will be watching this post carefully.

[Terry Teadtke]

Thanks everyone. That answers my question

Terry

[Peter Quinn]

You might want to raise the grain with a wash coat and lightly sand the joint lines depending on the details of your project. I'm thinking two fuzzy boards may not glue up so well, and sand through on dyed woods is fixable but best avoided when possible.

Took a class with Peter Gedrys and he suggested pre raising the grain with a real dilute was coat of the dye color you would be using, finish sanding, then applying the actual dyes to the work to avoid sand through. Been doing this for a few years and it has saved me lots of headaches. You could use just water but the wash coat starts pushing the wood in the color direction you want to achieve anyway sort of like a primer.

[Joe Spear]

For small items you can't clamp, maybe you could try Titebond Molding and Trim Glue. It's very viscous, so when you coat a small piece with it, the piece will stay stuck to whatever you put it on. Just press the piece on and hold it for a few seconds to make sure you have a tight bond. It won't slip down when you let go. I have used it to apply solid wood edging to plywood on a large bookcase, and it is still on after two years.

[Terry Teadtke]

Thanks Joe, I hadn't heard of Tight Bond Trim glue

Terry